xychix Posted January 10, 2021 Author Share Posted January 10, 2021 Well at the moment I made some steps, My 200di is mated to the series box and resting on it's engine supports. now I want to have the engine tick over and run before I'l invest in things like timingchain replacement and all the other bits and pieces. Slowly but steady, but hey I'm not complaining. It's the first time I've seen and engine going out and in a car..... and I did it myself and alone using make shift tools! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted January 10, 2021 Share Posted January 10, 2021 Good to hear it's in , and looking forward to the next update Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 11, 2021 Share Posted January 11, 2021 Well done. The belt isn’t too bad a job, but unfortunately you do need to remove the water pump on the 200, so make sure you get that gasket too. I’d get the idler pulley, too, as the bearing does wear and affect belt alignment, and you probably don’t know when that’s was replaced. Zeus Engineering, who make lovely stainless calliper pistons for disc brakes LRs, and a decent but relatively frugal disc brake conversion for Series LRs, also make (or used to make) a timing gear system for the Tdi. It’s supposed to mean you never have to service the timing system again, but it’s reputed to be very noisy and have a tendency to shear the alignment dowel off the cam shaft, so I’d stick with the original system and just buy decent quality belts (Dayco are the OEM). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted February 19, 2021 Author Share Posted February 19, 2021 Engine is in for a first fitting. Last main thing to sort out is the alternator. Given that I'd love to keep the disco alternator and not have PAS pump in place I'm looking for a way to get the pullys lined up and find a suitable belt. When placing the alternator it lines up with the first pully on the crankshaft but as I need to have the waterpump inline as well I need the alternator to move forward 22 millimeter. I've been reading on several solutions using a series mount and a alu carved block and rotating the frontplate of the alternator. But looking a the first picture I tried to imagine having the alternator in this position and just move it forward 22mm.. That would mean I need a few rings at thee front of the top mount and grind of a small piece of the back (the white tape in the second picture). Now I've lost my confidence after seeing everyone using complex solutions while this seems so simple........ what have I missed? Must be something there? Don't belts that long exist? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 The reason most fit the alternator in the standard Series position, discarding that entire Discovery cradle, is to make space for the intercooler and air filter piping to turbo and manifold. I had the same issue, and would have left the Discovery cradle if I could have, but like others, I used the SIII bracket and spacers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 It seems better packaged and neater all round to me. On my 80 it helps clear the exhaust, engine mount, and chassis rail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 Don’t forget that SIIIs, which probably form the bulk of Tdi conversions, have a heater unit on top of the left foot well, where SI and SII refits tend to put the air filter. That means the air filter typically gets installed to the front, and so more air piping will be there, especially if using 200 manifolds and turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted February 22, 2021 Author Share Posted February 22, 2021 (edited) 3 hours ago, Snagger said: Don’t forget that SIIIs, which probably form the bulk of Tdi conversions, have a heater unit on top of the left foot well, where SI and SII refits tend to put the air filter. That means the air filter typically gets installed to the front, and so more air piping will be there, especially if using 200 manifolds and turbo. yes I'm without the turbo and LHD, the heater on the right bulkhead (but considering removing that and just looping the heater waterpipes from out to in in the block. ok ok, I've got a 3mm walled box of 40*80 mm lying around. Will see if I can build a spacer with that. Hopefully can source proper length bolts somewhere near here. Edited February 22, 2021 by xychix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted February 22, 2021 Author Share Posted February 22, 2021 My plan would basically look like this but with the alternator slightly more forward. http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/images/200d8.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted February 22, 2021 Author Share Posted February 22, 2021 4 hours ago, Anderzander said: It seems better packaged and neater all round to me. On my 80 it helps clear the exhaust, engine mount, and chassis rail. Is this the spacer block with series mouning? (and rotated frontplate on 200tdi alternator? ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 56 minutes ago, xychix said: Is this the spacer block with series mouning? (and rotated frontplate on 200tdi alternator? ) It is - but not a block - cylindrical spacers like Glenn Coyne uses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted February 23, 2021 Author Share Posted February 23, 2021 working on it already changed the alternator front plate, now cutting up a 40mm*80mm thick walled box section, drill holes and go look for 70mm m8 8.8 hi tensile bolts (2x) 130mm m8 8.8 hi tensile bolt (1x) Hoping that thereafter the belt that was driving the PAS pump is a match.... (or maybe the belt from the series block) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted February 23, 2021 Share Posted February 23, 2021 I can find the part number for the belt I used ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted February 23, 2021 Author Share Posted February 23, 2021 (edited) It is working! used the PAS belt. Spanner of the series to the waterpump. Edited February 23, 2021 by xychix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted February 23, 2021 Share Posted February 23, 2021 Yay ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted February 24, 2021 Author Share Posted February 24, 2021 First run, its smokey... yek, but it runs. Maybe the fuel pump has been tampered with while still in the disco... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted February 26, 2021 Share Posted February 26, 2021 If it hasn’t fired in a while, it’ll be a little smokey until it settles back in - stale fuel and a little sludge or glazing in the fuel system to purge, likewise the oil system, and maybe a little light bore rusting to be polished off, rings being slightly sticky... You will almost certainly have to tweak the pump settings, too, now that the turbo is gone; it would have been calibrated for more oxygen, so you will be running rich at elevated revs and high throttle settings. Good to see so much progress, though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted May 10, 2021 Author Share Posted May 10, 2021 On 2/26/2021 at 10:24 AM, Snagger said: If it hasn’t fired in a while, it’ll be a little smokey until it settles back in - stale fuel and a little sludge or glazing in the fuel system to purge, likewise the oil system, and maybe a little light bore rusting to be polished off, rings being slightly sticky... You will almost certainly have to tweak the pump settings, too, now that the turbo is gone; it would have been calibrated for more oxygen, so you will be running rich at elevated revs and high throttle settings. Good to see so much progress, though. Covid didn't allow me to get here and work on this. But now I have found some time: - battery is in a cut open and cleaned out diesel tank under the driver seat (LHD) - wires of disco starterlead to starter and from there to a 100A fuse, on the other end of that fuse the alternator and a thick lead that goes trough the firewall to do the rest. - did find a permanent 12v to feed the fuel pump and connected the old starter relay wire. + it drives in and out of the garage itself, it charges! - it does seem to run in temperature way to fast, it seems to over fuel, on throttle it tends to sort of back fire (small 2.25di exhaust might nog help), engine oil measures to high. At A certain point i had the feeling it was picking up speed from my throttle position and chose to cut fuel straight away. Nevertheless, happy with the progress! It's been a while since it moved without the help of a tractor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted May 10, 2021 Share Posted May 10, 2021 Great progress , really good to hear it will move itself Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 11, 2021 Share Posted May 11, 2021 Well done! You definitely need a bigger exhaust with straight through silencer boxes, not the 2.25 system. That will cause back pressure and significant performance and temperature problems and perhaps the misfiring, but the latter is more likely due to having been stood idle a long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted October 16, 2021 Author Share Posted October 16, 2021 Well all, that took almost 1,5 years. The 200di is in. Just did a first drive of 5km's on tarmac up to 60km/h. Purrs like a kitten, the kids didn't even hear me leave the property and no cows died of the smoke. fokkin' happy with this. Few last tidy up things: - wire glowplugs - test / replace thermostat (now open all the time) - wire the BMW temperature switch (85-89c) i bought from Estonia for only 12 euro's to trigger electric the fan relay - mount the fan - fix the airfilter into position runs like a dream! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xychix Posted October 16, 2021 Author Share Posted October 16, 2021 On 5/11/2021 at 1:17 PM, Snagger said: Well done! You definitely need a bigger exhaust with straight through silencer boxes, not the 2.25 system. That will cause back pressure and significant performance and temperature problems and perhaps the misfiring, but the latter is more likely due to having been stood idle a long time. yep, the misfiring is gone. oil level was quite high and got a bit high. A bigger exhaust would cost a fair bit, seems to be driving like this (and believe its done like this quite often...?) Only option would be to 'build' my own exhaust, Would then also consider reusing the 200 exhaust manifold (did mange to get the turbo off in 1 piece) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted October 16, 2021 Share Posted October 16, 2021 Good work , if it works well enough for your use then leave your exhaust as is , you are non turbo anyway so less volume to exit . When do you hope to be finished and tested for road ? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted October 16, 2021 Share Posted October 16, 2021 Very well done !!! Enjoy ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted October 16, 2021 Share Posted October 16, 2021 I've had mine for over a decade, still don't have a fan, or a decent air filter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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