Advice wanted on fitting a snorkel to LHS 300Tdi

[Troll Hunter]

As in the title.  My 110CSW was originally fitted with a heater and A/C, with the heater matrix, A/C evaporator and fan all inside a fairly large box which is located just in front of the bulkhead on the RHS.  I now want to fit a snorkel, but the available space and routing to the air filter inlet makes this very problematic.  I no longer have A/C, so do I need to replace or modify the heater box, or should I replace or relocate the air filter?    What about the coolant header tank and the fuel filter, both of which are mounted on the edge of the wing, roughly opposite the FIP.  These could possibly be relocated.  Does anybody have a LHS 300Tdi fitted with a snorkel, please?  If so, please can you describe the routing of the air inlet.  Photos would be ace. 

Many thanks, in advance, for any advice offered.

Mike

[Arjan]

Hmm....... A lot depends on what snorkel you're planning on using as some require different routings, pipes and joints. This is the Safari-look-a-like we had on the 300 Tdi OneTen until the cage was fitted.

As we do not have a standard heater the routing in the engine compartment is totally different but if you look at the part book you'll see a plastic pipe going under the heaterbox and then up to the side intake. These snorkels are bolted against the outside with a gasket in between - not the best way to do it IMHO.

[Ed Poore]

Some pictures of your engine bay might be helpful since I might be speaking for most of us in that we're not that familiar with LHD 300Tdis.

[Snagger]

Where is your intake now?  Some photos of the engine bay would help.

The 19J/200Tdi intake on the left is the same design as the later intakes on the right wing, just reversed and perhaps with a different diameter outlet and hose.  You could fit those on your existing wing with a snorkel if you make a template of where the hole is from a standard vehicle.  You could fit a replacement left outer wing panel if you want the joggled edges of the aperture for the snorkel flange to recess into - all the skins have the same profiles and fixings measurements, the variations being the indicator repeater holes and the thickness of the sheet used in production (invisible when fitted).

[Peaklander]

9 hours ago, Arjan said:

These snorkels are bolted against the outside with a gasket in between - not the best way to do it IMHO.

If I might be allowed a little thread hijack, I have a second-hand Safari snorkel on the shelf waiting to be fitted. I was a little hasty buying it (I thought it was a bargain) and I didn't realise that some are like this as Arjan says.

I too have this type that bolts against the wing but I want mine to be watertight (rather than just a raised intake). I don't know how I would do that without the spigot that was fitted to the earlier versions.  I'm wondering if I can add some sort of DIY spigot so that I can continue with sealed pipes to the filter housing.

If anyone has used one of these and sealed it properly, I'd be grateful for some guidance.

[Arjan]

IF you don't mind the HiJack....

We cheat..

Inside the engine bay and all the way up into the snorkel we have a flexible tube that we connect to the airfilterbox intake when we feel like doing stupid things..

Being waterproof is crucial for these things and I rather not doubt it "waterproofness"

[landroversforever]

1 hour ago, Peaklander said:

If I might be allowed a little thread hijack, I have a second-hand Safari snorkel on the shelf waiting to be fitted. I was a little hasty buying it (I thought it was a bargain) and I didn't realise that some are like this as Arjan says.

I too have this type that bolts against the wing but I want mine to be watertight (rather than just a raised intake). I don't know how I would do that without the spigot that was fitted to the earlier versions.  I'm wondering if I can add some sort of DIY spigot so that I can continue with sealed pipes to the filter housing.

If anyone has used one of these and sealed it properly, I'd be grateful for some guidance.

Following on from the hijack... my snorkel was well and truely tested. It was the 'wing seal' type one. The PO of the 90 had wedged a 90Deg silicone bend up into the snorkel and sealed it up with half a ton of silicone. Wasn't the neatest but seemed to work out OK. My plan is to do a neater version when it comes to it as I like the Safari shape.

[Troll Hunter]

Hi,

Some photos.  I am still in the rebuild sstage with my vehicle, and I don't have the heater box fitted, so the first few photos are with the box on a chair so that the general dimensions are evident.  The later photos are with the box more or less in its correct position.

The dimensions are 19" left to right, 12" side to side across the top, 9.5" top to bottom.  The right hand end is the outlet to the cabin.

This shows the air outlet to the cabin, which is the square section on the right.  The fan snail casing is on the left.

This one and the next one show the air inlet to the heater box.  Air comes through the wing top air vent into a plastic duct beneath the wing top.  This duct originally had a vacuum operated door that allowed fresh air or recirculated air into the heater box.  The rectangular hole in the bulkhead needs to be reduced to fit the heater box outlet now that I'm removing the recirculation option.

General view of the engine compartment.  The heater box is top left in this photo, with a block of wood to help locate it.  The filter air inlet is at the bulkhead end as is the air outlet.

With the heater box more or less in its correct position.  When properly fitted it will go about 1" closer to the bulkhead and about 0.5" lower, so that it almost sits on the upper surface of the right inner wing, but supported by a bracket.  When properly installed the heater box top is almost touching the under side of the bonnet, so there is no scope for raising the box to provide more room below it.

I hope the above photos help somebody to offer a solution to fitting a snorkel on my vehicle.  Many thanks for persevering this far.

Mike

 

[Troll Hunter]

Hi,

Some photos.  I am still in the rebuild sstage with my vehicle, and I don't have the heater box fitted, so the first few photos are with the box on a chair so that the general dimensions are evident.  The later photos are with the box more or less in its correct position.

The dimensions are 19" left to right, 12" side to side across the top, 9.5" top to bottom.  The right hand end is the outlet to the cabin.

This shows the air outlet to the cabin, which is the square section on the right.  The fan snail casing is on the left.

This one and the next one show the air inlet to the heater box.  Air comes through the wing top air vent into a plastic duct beneath the wing top.  This duct originally had a vacuum operated door that allowed fresh air or recirculated air into the heater box.  The rectangular hole in the bulkhead needs to be reduced to fit the heater box outlet now that I'm removing the recirculation option.

General view of the engine compartment.  The heater box is top left in this photo, with a block of wood to help locate it.  The filter air inlet is at the bulkhead end as is the air outlet.

With the heater box more or less in its correct position.  When properly fitted it will go about 1" closer to the bulkhead and about 0.5" lower, so that it almost sits on the upper surface of the right inner wing, but supported by a bracket.  When properly installed the heater box top is almost touching the under side of the bonnet, so there is no scope for raising the box to provide more room below it.

I hope the above photos help somebody to offer a solution to fitting a snorkel on my vehicle.  Many thanks for persevering this far.

Mike

 

[Troll Hunter]

Sorry for what appears as a duplicate post.  For some reason the first attempt didn't jnclude the text after the last photo, and I don't have an "Edit" button.  Still don't.  Don't know why!

Mike

 

[Peaklander]

The Edit button is now selected by clicking the three dots at the top right of your posts. I don't know the time limit on it now but it used to be an hour and then the function is removed.

Edit: Like this

[missingsid]

23 hours ago, Arjan said:

Hmm....... A lot depends on what snorkel you're planning on using as some require different routings, pipes and joints. This is the Safari-look-a-like we had on the 300 Tdi OneTen until the cage was fitted.

As we do not have a standard heater the routing in the engine compartment is totally different but if you look at the part book you'll see a plastic pipe going under the heaterbox and then up to the side intake. These snorkels are bolted against the outside with a gasket in between - not the best way to do it IMHO.

So this system uses the same inlet that the AC heater box is using? Are the wing top vents for the heater in a non AC vehicle? If so is there a different snorkel for an AC fitted car?

[Arjan]

That box looks fairly standard - the engine air intake from the side goes under the heaterbox towards the engine.

The standard stuff - mirrored for LHD  - part # 3 goes under the heaterbox and the inner wing.

This is an example for a snorkel :

This is the Safari type that does away with the LR pipes and replaces them with a better (more waterproof perhaps) set up.

Hope this will give you an idea..

[Troll Hunter]

Thank you, Peaklander, for guiding me to the "Edit" button.

Many thanks for your guidance, Arjan,I've studied these pages, but I'll have to modify the plastic section that goes beneath the wing top.  This shouldn't be a problem since I've already removed the vacuum motor and flap that were inside.  You can see in the last but one photo that the plastic section goes well below the bottom of the air inlet, so I think that Mr. Grinder and some fibre-glass will take care of that.  I'll keep the drain facility.  I assume that the pipes of the Safari type kit are a maximum of 3" diameter, so I'll have to make sure that I've got that clearance beneath the heater air inlet system.

Many thanks to all who have considered my challenge.  I'll post the result after chopping what needs to come out.

Mike

[oneandtwo]

The 300tdi / td5 both use the same intake system and intake is always on the right hand side regardless of whether the vehicle is RHD or LHD.

There was a factory kit to connect the 300tdi air box to the 200tdi intake (200tdi intake plastics are broadly similar to the later intakes but are located on left hand side). The factory kit basically consisted of a very long version of the moulded rubber corrugated pipe that connects the air box to the intake.

[Snagger]

The factory intake can easily be waterproofed with RTV sealant.  Remove it, bond the two parts together, bond it to the inside of the wing and the foam gasket of the snorkel will seal the base of the snorkel to the outside of the wing (use more RTV if you don’t have a thick enough gasket).  Make sure the rest of the system’s joints are tight and sealed and it’s done.  You shouldn’t need any custom parts.

I did the above on my 200Tdi 109, using the factory intake and a plastic Mantec snorkel, and on my wife’s TDCI 90 with a Safari snorkel.  The latter was more difficult to waterproof because of the duct connection to the filter casing being such a loose fit - it needed a lot of RTV,  it it worked.

[Peaklander]

 

7 hours ago, Snagger said:

The factory intake can easily be waterproofed with RTV sealant.  Remove it, bond the two parts together, bond it to the inside of the wing and the foam gasket of the snorkel will seal the base of the snorkel to the outside of the wing

I'm still hijacking... this is my snorkel. It doesn't have a spigot as you can see. Are you meaning that a watertight seal is possible between item 2 in the diagram and the 'non-spigotted' face of my Safari? 

 

Sorry about the size of the pics, I can't get them smaller. Usually it's no problem doing so.

Edited October 30, 2020 by Peaklander

[Snagger]

That’s it.  Seal parts 2 and 3 together with sealant, then used more sealant on the flange of part 2 to the wing and secure it with its hidden screws.  Then fit the snorkel.

That is the same type I installed on the TDCI.  The foam gasket is not permeable and is thick and sturdy enough to form a good waterproof seal.  If you don’t have a gasket, then you can either fabricate one from neoprene sheet or you can use more RTV sealant, but the latter does make the snorkel a permanent fixture.