Snagger Posted October 11, 2023 Share Posted October 11, 2023 Funny you bring that up as an example - you should have seen the welding on the early SpaceX Starship prototypes, before they got the robots. 😳🫣 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 11, 2023 Share Posted October 11, 2023 Lovely job that! I’ve always found it surprisingly easy to swap hands and TIG left handed. Upside down is always a pain in the dick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD5toV8110 Posted October 13, 2023 Share Posted October 13, 2023 Hey. What was LR's reason for the curved rear section of chassis? Just realized the Series chassis is straight. Why did you go curved on this custom rear Serge? I think I may go straight on mine. 😬 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted October 14, 2023 Share Posted October 14, 2023 It's curved on the 110 to get access to the tank sender and one of the dampers is mounted on it, same as early range rover but only on the very first 110's. At least that's the only reasons I can think of. Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted October 15, 2023 Author Share Posted October 15, 2023 And given the overhang (compared to a 90), it helps protect the bottom of the Tank. Straight is definitely the best structurally, but I'm confident that when Im finished my rear section will be stronger than factory. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted October 15, 2023 Share Posted October 15, 2023 I had assumed they introduced the curve on the RRC chassis, and by legacy, the 110 and 90 to give some sort of energy absorption in a shunt - not quite a crumple zone, but along those lines. The Series chassis were all straight, so transmit shunt loads without much absorption unless they split their welds and peel like a banana. I had been under the impression that all 110s had the swoop, a floor brace sitting on legs attached to the rails to replicate the top of a 109 chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD5toV8110 Posted October 15, 2023 Share Posted October 15, 2023 The 110 TD5 Defender chassis had straight sections bridging the swoop! I'm going straight! 🤪 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted October 16, 2023 Share Posted October 16, 2023 On 10/11/2023 at 6:08 PM, landroversforever said: Upside down is always a pain in the dick. I think you may be doing it wrong Ross - where exactly are you sticking the tungsten??? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 16, 2023 Share Posted October 16, 2023 2 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said: I think you may be doing it wrong Ross - where exactly are you sticking the tungsten??? Ohhhhhhhh is that where I’m going wrong?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted October 17, 2023 Author Share Posted October 17, 2023 23 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said: I think you may be doing it wrong Ross - where exactly are you sticking the tungsten??? His nickname isn’t Prince Albert for nothing… 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted October 22, 2023 Author Share Posted October 22, 2023 Before I can finish the rear cross member, I have to make sure heights are correct as the rear chassis ties from top of cross member to top of chassis rails will also form the rear load bearing points. first was to get the bulkhead in what should be it’s final position. You can not adjust the height or move it left or right given how it’s mounted. You can adjust with packers back and forth to square up. And you can adjust the vertical tilt with packers between the bulkhead to front chassis brackets. Mine was out of level a bit, so I offset the holes going from 1/2” to 14mm. This got me within 2mm and still left plenty material around the holes in both the bulkhead and outriggers. I also had to make my heavy duty sill/slider mounts as these pick up the bulkhead. I will be welding a bit of 5mm flat where the X is with it hard to the bottom of the mount. This to stop the mount rotating around the bolt as the slider is offset. (A common point missed in aftermarket sliders) After getting the bulkhead sorted for height and square (fortunately it is only 1mm of centre left to right 🙏🏼) , I then had to play with the rear of tub set up, to then set the tub bulkhead height, to then check this in relation to floor and load bearing points. I still have 2 factory load bearing points each side so needed around 27mm between them and floor. The rear of tub consists of the main mounting angle, which sets the height of floor, end panels etc. It was a matter of taking a guess , clamping it altogether, then pulling a string line from the front bulkhead to rear end panel ( in the corner where the curve meets the vertical ) and then adjusting the height of the tub bulkhead until it met the string at the same point. Then check the gap between underside of floor to load bearing points. I feel I have it close enough to move forward and fabricate the tub bulkhead mounts. Then I can bolt this in its proper position (just bodged in place currently) and it’s my reference for load bearing heights. Of course, constant checking throughout the process will continue…. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD5toV8110 Posted October 22, 2023 Share Posted October 22, 2023 Are you building the tub from all new parts? How is the height of the crossmember in relation to the bottom of the tub back? I want to steal your knowledge before welding mine!🤪 Cheers Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted October 23, 2023 Author Share Posted October 23, 2023 2 hours ago, TD5toV8110 said: Are you building the tub from all new parts? How is the height of the crossmember in relation to the bottom of the tub back? I want to steal your knowledge before welding mine!🤪 Cheers Dave I have new side panels and new rear 1/4 panels. I’ll be using a secondhand Defender cab chassis rear of cab (Tub bulkhead). I’ll make my own floor from new aluminium, I have new floor stiffeners and old Series tub cross members. Wheel wells will be made from scratch as well (the floor and wheel wells need to be formed around the damper mounts. Basically buy the formed panels and do the easy straight folds etc. What tub are you using? 88” or 109” as there are differences between the two that may affect that measurement. at the moment I’m about 13mm gap between the top of my cross member and the bottom edge of tub rear mounting angle. I’m pretty sure this profile is bigger than the factory old Series type… 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD5toV8110 Posted October 23, 2023 Share Posted October 23, 2023 I'm using a 109 tub. Shortened 400mm at the back, fabricating an under-cab bulkhead (for 150mm cab extension), possibly re-shape the arches. Cheers Dave 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted October 23, 2023 Author Share Posted October 23, 2023 1 hour ago, TD5toV8110 said: I'm using a 109 tub. Shortened 400mm at the back, fabricating an under-cab bulkhead (for 150mm cab extension), possibly re-shape the arches. Cheers Dave Ok so the 109 tub should have the similar setup at the rear. That is, the main rear mounting angle (sort of M shape), then on top of that there is a small transition angle (sort of Z shape), then the floor. I have Series tub cross members so they will be the same, and apparently same as Def’r anyway. I’ll measure my main rear mounting angle as I think it a touch bigger than a 109 version… 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD5toV8110 Posted October 23, 2023 Share Posted October 23, 2023 My 109 tub donor has a remarkably good crossmember and chassis. I'm considering using the 109 crossmember and rear chassis cut instead of my TD5 one which is full of useless holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD5toV8110 Posted October 23, 2023 Share Posted October 23, 2023 I read somewhere that the under tub crossmembers/stiffeners are exactly the same part from S1 to 2016 Defer!🧐 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post uninformed Posted November 12, 2023 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 12, 2023 Still working towards the rear cross member final bits, I got the back of cab - tub bulkhead mounts welded in. Lots of back and forth, measuring and re measuring but got there in the end. Once I had them tacked in and happy with alignment I bolted some SHS right across both then a couple of braces welded to it and the chassis. Kept it all pretty good and they’ve come out straight and true. These welded mounts eliminated the factory bolt on style, and more importantly the fiddly rubbish nut plates that go up inside the outriggers and rust out etc. And a nice little benefit is my welded mounts are 150g lighter per side than the factory style I was thinking of doing… 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted November 12, 2023 Share Posted November 12, 2023 Lovely bit of work there as normal! Have I missed the details on the rear suspension / A-frame changes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted November 12, 2023 Author Share Posted November 12, 2023 7 hours ago, landroversforever said: Lovely bit of work there as normal! Have I missed the details on the rear suspension / A-frame changes? Thanks, and yes lol. its on page 1, to be fair though its not like it was last month 😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD5toV8110 Posted November 12, 2023 Share Posted November 12, 2023 Mint as usual! Did you fabricate the bolt on bracket on the right then go welded? Cheers Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted November 12, 2023 Author Share Posted November 12, 2023 1 hour ago, TD5toV8110 said: Mint as usual! Did you fabricate the bolt on bracket on the right then go welded? Cheers Dave Yeah, the factory bracket didn’t have the offset I needed so was going to fabricate four. I did one, then used the factory ones I had, mocked up the tub bulkhead clamped to the outriggers and found how flexi they both were. Probably fine for the application but I figured stronger, lighter and no bolts had to be better. And probably less work to be honest as those bolt on mounts are fiddly to make… 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD5toV8110 Posted November 13, 2023 Share Posted November 13, 2023 Are you doing extended cab, if so, how much? Cheers Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted November 13, 2023 Author Share Posted November 13, 2023 3 hours ago, TD5toV8110 said: Are you doing extended cab, if so, how much? Cheers Dave Yes I’m making the cab bigger by ~200mm. By way of longer doors though. Extra cabs don’t really solve the ergonomic issues. So the rear of cab and seat base all get moved rearward and I’ll need longer floors and the structural sills . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TD5toV8110 Posted November 14, 2023 Share Posted November 14, 2023 (edited) Nice! Lotsa work! I'm also doing 200mm only so I can fit the BRZ seats. I might even finish before you! 🤪 Cheers Dave Edited November 14, 2023 by TD5toV8110 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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