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Whats behind this?


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More chassis rot to sort. This is behind the rear shock mount on my 110. I will cut the rot out and plate it but I wondered what is behind the rot before I start cutting. It looks like more than three tubed holes but I may be wrong. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

So quick question re my pics in the first post. As a temporary repair should I just plate over the top of the rot with a patch that goes back to good metal or do I need to cut it out?

This chassis is being replaced so this is to get it safely back on the road fairly quickly whilst I fix the other two land rovers! If i was keeping this chassis i wouldnt ask this question.

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Just now, landroversforever said:

Can't see an issue with overplating for a temporary repair. My only thoughts would be its not going to be that much more work to take it back, and what if it has to wait a bit longer than you originally intend? 

Looking throught the hole i have enlarged, theres quite a bit of strengthening behind it to detach and leave in place

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1 minute ago, landroversforever said:

Ahh. Guess it comes down to how sure you are of the chassis change in the near future?

I keep getting as far as the 'complete purchase' button and then think 'oh, but would x be better than y'!! Its between XD and Richards. XD don't seem keen on communication, a few people have said they have had problems with Richards

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Seeing those photos of chassis rot it reminds me of when I cut up my old chassis last year after fitting the Richards replacement.

To put it bluntly, there wasn't any! There was some corrosion on parts of the internal structure but I couldn't find any rot. In places you could see where the Waxoyl had done its job and after 34yrs it was still as sound as a pound (until I got busy with the angle grinder that is!).

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I had a new 110 Richards chassis back in Feb last year, first class service, finish and delivery.

Only a few minor niggles, the tub mount bracket points for the van body wouldn't take the bolt on brackets as the u shape profile was the same size as the bracket that was supposed to fit inside it, annoyingly. I fed that back to them so they could make improvements. If you had a different variant 110 it probably wouldn't have been used.

There also weren't any holes/rivnuts to bolt the front of the td5 tank cradle into, although the rear crossmember had been done to td5 spec perfectly, not a crisis however. The other i found right at the end of the build was the underneath plate of the left front dumbiron/jacking point was welded 5mm too far forward. This meant to bolt the bumper on required 4mm grinding out of the back of the bumper, by the bolt holes to get the bolts through.

Everything else critical lined up perfectly and the welding and galv finish was spot on.

Pete

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Well, the rot got worse. I put a rather neat plate on the shock mount but then patching a small section forward of that revealed more and more rot. Its impossible to repair properly with the body on and I worry about the integrity of that A frame cross member. So the 110 is off the road. I will start stripping it and get the chassis ordered from Richards I think. I want to take the body apart as the whole thing will be getting a refurb as the new doors and bulkhead go on too.

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Yep. I was hoping for a temporary repair while the disco is off the road but its just too rotten in that cross member. 
 

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obviously I cut the big hole but its so rotten on top of the rail forward from here theres nothing to repair to! 

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1 minute ago, western said:

Oh another chassis swap/body rebuild, you might beat  Ross to finish first

.....hardly a contest really

The right decision reb78 , there is only so much welding that can be done to prolong life . 

Steve

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"Was your Richards chassis all ok Litch? I think that's the way I am leaning."

Yes, it was fine. Everything lined up and the galvanising was to a good standard with all the holes cleaned out, I didn't have to clear a single one.

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