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Pneumatic diff lock high/low operation


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Has anyone here done it or have the knowledge to share to be able to do it ?

There are kits out there but every one I look at is sold out.

Would like ball ended lever valves for operation, used like little diff lock levers 😁.

I haven't the first clue in what to look for 😡

I really like the look of this one which is compact and tidy but is sold out

https://mwmachines.co.uk/shop/pneumatic-high-low-diff-lock-selector-kit

Mo

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There's seemingly a few of the Cummins lot that produce them. I've not looked in detail at the kits but some of them really seem to slam between the hihg/low for example which doesn't sit well for me.

Making your own with push-fit stuff shouldn't be too difficult.... just need the right sort of stroke (or a little longer) pnuematic cylinders, brackets to suit, an air supply, probably want some flow restrictors either end of the lines to the high/low ram and finally your choice of either manual valves or solenoids/switches.

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46 minutes ago, Mo Murphy said:

Has anyone here done it or have the knowledge to share to be able to do it ?

There are kits out there but every one I look at is sold out.

Would like ball ended lever valves for operation, used like little diff lock levers 😁.

I haven't the first clue in what to look for 😡

I really like the look of this one which is compact and tidy but is sold out

https://mwmachines.co.uk/shop/pneumatic-high-low-diff-lock-selector-kit

Mo

im intending on fitting a varient of that kit to my m57/8hp conversion, currently swaying towards electric actuators as it would make the vehicle install slightly easier,

im led to believe that MW machines are in the process of Revising there kit to a less cummins agrifab bracket into a more elegant nicely made bracket

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1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said:

Seems like Β£400 of complicated stuff to do what a simple lever does :huh:

Oh indeed John but I'm having difficulty making the lever do with clashing with the gearbox electrical plug.

Mo

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35 minutes ago, Mo Murphy said:

Oh indeed John but I'm having difficulty making the lever do with clashing with the gearbox electrical plug.

I'd have thought if there's room for this assemblage of bits there's room to get some sort of lever mechanism in there?

I have some very small air actuators you can have, save a few pennies?

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Yes John, trick seems to be to rotate the diff lock operating arm through 180Β° and come from the other side.

Yes please to the actuators ! I presume they'd have to have air at both ends to work.

The air valve choice seems bewildering, presumably I need a type that will operate in both directions.

What air line should I use ?

What are and why would I need restricters, Ross ?

As you can see I haven't got aΒ  clue at the moment !

Mo

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Answers added below:

26 minutes ago, Mo Murphy said:

The air valve choice seems bewildering, presumably I need a type that will operate in both directions.Β 
Many ways to skin the proverbial cat.... you can either have 4, so a switch for each direction of each cylinder, or have a multi-port valve which I'd compare to On-off-on 3 position switch if that makes sense? Need to make sure whichever option you use, that when they're off they vent the line they were previously feeding.Β 

What air line should I use ?Β I'd probably go either 4 or 6mm nylon or polyurethane - the latter is much more flexible if you've got tight runs. (on that note.... make sure for push fit stuff they're not making a hard turn right after a connection as that can induce leaks.

What are and why would I need restrictors, Ross ?Β We use them at work on big valves you don't want clanging open and closed. So they're fitted in each line to the cylinder. The principle for ours are that they're mounted in each line, right after the cylinder, but they only work in one direction of flow. The idea is that the restrictor in the line driving the open side is there to restrict air coming out when the close line is driven. Does that make sense? They're there to restrict the air coming back from the cylinder.Β 

As you can see I haven't got aΒ  clue at the moment !Β It's what we're all here for :D. I use pnueumatics regularly at work.... and I wouldn't know where to start scraping someone up into an ambulance :PΒ 

Mo

Β 

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49 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

Answers added below:

Β 

Thanks Ross, that's all quite clear, thanks for that πŸ‘Β 

I was thinking of using 2 valves one for each of diff lock and hi/lo and mounting them so that orientation is the same as the transfer lever, so side to side for diff lock and forwards/backwards for hi/lo 😁

Mo

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What about a couple of small morse cables, then you could have a pair of t levers like a jet throttle?Β :)

On a more serious note, good and compact and simple, with feel to ease in or out. Once set the lever position will confirm full engagement?

Air actuators would really need sliding connections with compression springs to ensure no damage to internals during use. Sure you can reduce flow and/or pressure but it's still remote and out of sight installed.

KIS?

Steve

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6 hours ago, steve b said:

What about a couple of small morse cables, then you could have a pair of t levers like a jet throttle?Β :)

On a more serious note, good and compact and simple, with feel to ease in or out. Once set the lever position will confirm full engagement?

Air actuators would really need sliding connections with compression springs to ensure no damage to internals during use. Sure you can reduce flow and/or pressure but it's still remote and out of sight installed.

KIS?

Steve

That’s the idea of the flow restrictors. With the flow set properly it shouldn’t damage anything.

Personally I like something that I can feel in. Particularly with high/low.Β 

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Got to be honest Mo, your first post and the link you sent resembles and very close to the opening and closing mechanism on an 1980 Bedford coach passenger door, you'll remember the ones as the bus driver pulled away he'd hit the button and the door shut, and hopefully opened when you wanted to get off, I'll see if I can find it, I took it off finding my daughter one night drunk as a sack scrwamibg the place down not being able to get out of her wagon cos the thing had jammed somehow, I think most of it is still above the door, all valves and 3mm piping, I'll have a look tomorrow and send some photos on, hope your wellΒ 

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I've got these pieces, still attached to the Bedford which if they are any good to you I'll get them off and you can have them, the main piston bit unfortunately isn't above the door and to be honest stumped as to where I've put it, but I'm sure if you were to find a commercial breakers you could get the piston bit, probably half the weight of the one I had and a lot neater and smaller, it's only a push pull unit, I'm guessing that's what your after?

20230305_085206.thumb.jpg.557e6e612ec62859a82a386806c19a1b.jpg

20230305_085446.jpg

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11 hours ago, landroversforever said:

If you find them John and Mo thinks the stroke is long enough…. :ph34r:Β :lol:…. If we can get them to me I’ll check the threads and some connectors. Then sort getting them onwards to mo.Β 

:lol: found them:

20230304_154648.thumb.jpg.faae5ec4c69bcc17d9d01a322b25fe59.jpg

20230304_154653.jpg.36fc58131c04add0d49ebffae1d2e16f.jpg

20230304_154704.jpg.0a6953fbf81d942e42bea41b7b536a46.jpg

20230304_154709.jpg.c8521e9f84c704955bbac03c2cacd0be.jpg

Β 

Stroke is VERY short, about 15mm give or take.

Β 

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19 hours ago, landroversforever said:

What sort of stroke length do you reckon you need Mo?

Oo er πŸ€ͺ

I'm not with it at the mo but from memory it's between 25 and 40mm. I will measure up on Wednesday πŸ‘

Mo

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  • 10 months later...

ive ordered everything just about what you need for around 45 quid off alliexpress just need to make the base mounting plate which is nothing to do dont pay 400 quidΒ 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004748487843.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.15.30611802vcXeA9

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005570800146.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.23.30611802vcXeA9

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005532177409.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.29.30611802vcXeA9

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002990634919.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.35.30611802vcXeA9

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005256626799.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.77.30611802vcXeA9

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005908233757.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.83.30611802vcXeA9

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004752572892.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.66891802wXJUIv

i just have a few more bits to get if you have a constant air supply you may want to order another air solanoid to introduce air to the other two valves when system is in use still needs the switches and wiring but to be honest it isnt rocket science the rose joint ends were the smallest i could get and dont fit onto the little air rams but i wil be able to make them fit fill with weld in the ends and re tap smaller.you need the 4mm push in fittings and 4mm plastic pipe too everything needs to be 4mm.

i did all this to help get al the gear together when i do my 57 conversion trying to sort it all for the summer when i do the swap fingers crossedΒ Β 

Edited by crewcab 110
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On 3/3/2023 at 3:50 PM, Mo Murphy said:

Thanks Ross, that's all quite clear, thanks for that πŸ‘Β 

I was thinking of using 2 valves one for each of diff lock and hi/lo and mounting them so that orientation is the same as the transfer lever, so side to side for diff lock and forwards/backwards for hi/lo 😁

Mo

look at my post all links there to the gearΒ 

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11 minutes ago, crewcab 110 said:

look at my post all links there to the gearΒ 

Thanks crewcab, I went with disco 2 cable hi/lo and vacuum operated diff lock.

Your list is an excellent resource for someone else !

Mo

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