Gazzar Posted November 5, 2023 Author Share Posted November 5, 2023 The big front roller bearing is held in with a wire clip. I drifted the bearing out with a long socket extension, gentle taps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted November 5, 2023 Share Posted November 5, 2023 That is almost identical configuration to the Series version. When you put it all back together, it’s a swine to get the lay shaft cluster into place but offset without the shaft itself while you fit the main shaft stuff. Use a screw driver or any thinner shaft through the cluster and bearings to keep them in a position that you can manipulative them for alignment later - use the smaller shaft or tool to stir the bearings into alignment with the casing bores. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted November 5, 2023 Author Share Posted November 5, 2023 Two drain bungs and it's done. No idea what the upper bung is for, maybe a level plug? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted November 5, 2023 Author Share Posted November 5, 2023 Never opened a series one, but I'm told these are tougher. One difference is better lubrication, there's two drillings from the transfer box so they share the lubrication. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted November 5, 2023 Author Share Posted November 5, 2023 I'm going to clean this all up during the week, and hopefully rebuild next weekend. Other things on, which may interfere. But for now I've an 88" I need to assist on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted November 5, 2023 Share Posted November 5, 2023 Who needs workshop manuals when we have @Gazzar....... Excellent stuff thank you Regards Stephen 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted November 5, 2023 Author Share Posted November 5, 2023 Thanks, not deserved. As someone who just put the short drive shaft into the long side of the axle casing, and didn't spot it, NOT deserved. I'm not entirely with it mentally, and already planning to redo some work as I'm not happy with it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted November 5, 2023 Share Posted November 5, 2023 Just now, Gazzar said: Thanks, not deserved. As someone who just put the short drive shaft into the long side of the axle casing, and didn't spot it, NOT deserved. I'm not entirely with it mentally, and already planning to redo some work as I'm not happy with it... Your too hard on yourself at times I stand by what I posted.. Regards Stephen 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 5, 2023 Share Posted November 5, 2023 Agreed, if we all posted the stuff we had to do twice there'd be 50% more forum content 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted November 7, 2023 Share Posted November 7, 2023 On 11/5/2023 at 8:11 PM, Gazzar said: Never opened a series one, but I'm told these are tougher. One difference is better lubrication, there's two drillings from the transfer box so they share the lubrication. I would expect them to be a flair bit tougher to handle the V8 rather than 2.25. There is no similar oil path on the Series version. But the general configuration is very similar, the differences seemingly dimensions and probably material specs for the most part. Then again, why reinvent the wheel? Roverdrives are pretty similar between their models, but with differences where needed. I suspect they even share some common parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonimouse Posted November 8, 2023 Share Posted November 8, 2023 When you have rebuilt it and are fitting it on the LT95, don't forget the shims. I did. It's not good. On the good side though, I put 300bhp through my LT95 and overdrive. I broke the LT95 main shaft but never broke the OD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted November 8, 2023 Author Share Posted November 8, 2023 Thanks, I'll be reading Gavin's instructions several times. And I've his number. I'm going to see if I can rebuild the scrap one as well. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneandtwo Posted November 10, 2023 Share Posted November 10, 2023 I had a very low mileage series overdrive, with known history, and a second horribly neglected one with very worn gear teeth / failed bearings etc. I rebuilt the neglected one out of curiosity with all new bearings but retaining the worn gears as wasn’t worth spending any money on it, I swapped it into my series and it sounded no worse than the very low mileage one when in use! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted November 10, 2023 Author Share Posted November 10, 2023 That's what I suspect will happen. There may be accelerated wear as a result of the corrosion damaged teeth, but with decent lube and low use, worth doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted November 10, 2023 Author Share Posted November 10, 2023 Detail difference on the different castings. The scrap casing has a square headed second plug, compared to the good casing, which has a hex head plug Different thread, too. Is this a rationalisation measure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted November 10, 2023 Share Posted November 10, 2023 If you don’t mind spending the cost of the bearings, there is little to be lost by trying. Faireys do tend to howl, even brand new. That is less of a concern than rapid wear and failure because of the teeth having worn through their hardening. I think that the unit I rebuilt last year was in that category - some of you reinforced that suspicion when I shared photos of the wrecked gears (lay shaft cluster and input gear at the back of the main shaft). If you replace gears, then you really want to be confident that the rest of the parts are worth the investment - the gears are costly if you can find them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted November 10, 2023 Author Share Posted November 10, 2023 The parts washer is now in action, just shifting the rubbish, I'll try the ultrasonic cleaner, see how that works. If that's no good, I'll try steam cleaning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted November 10, 2023 Share Posted November 10, 2023 Any sign of cross-threading in either casing? Could just be a lost plug was replaced with whatever came to hand. It may be best having the casings vapour blast. That’ll bring them up like new and will also peen the surface to reduce future dirt and corrosion marking. It’ll be a lot faster than other methods, too. I doubt the ultrasonic will shift the staining. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted November 10, 2023 Author Share Posted November 10, 2023 Just now, Snagger said: If you don’t mind spending the cost of the bearings, there is little to be lost by trying. Faireys do tend to howl, even brand new. That is less of a concern than rapid wear and failure because of the teeth having worn through their hardening. I think that the unit I rebuilt last year was in that category - some of you reinforced that suspicion when I shared photos of the wrecked gears (lay shaft cluster and input gear at the back of the main shaft). If you replace gears, then you really want to be confident that the rest of the parts are worth the investment - the gears are costly if you can find them. I've sourced a new lay gear set, and will fit the best of what I've got to one, and have the other on the shelf as a spare. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted November 10, 2023 Author Share Posted November 10, 2023 5 minutes ago, Snagger said: Any sign of cross-threading in either casing? Could just be a lost plug was replaced with whatever came to hand. It may be best having the casings vapour blast. That’ll bring them up like new and will also peen the surface to reduce future dirt and corrosion marking. It’ll be a lot faster than other methods, too. I doubt the ultrasonic will shift the staining. My vapour blast contact sold his equipment, not doing it anymore. If it's not clean enough, I'll paint it with 2k silver. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted November 10, 2023 Author Share Posted November 10, 2023 I think it's okay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted November 10, 2023 Author Share Posted November 10, 2023 Detailed exploration revealed no major trauma. Some embedded swarf on the main roller bearing seat. And the threads ask cleaned up fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted November 10, 2023 Author Share Posted November 10, 2023 I find the markings interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted November 10, 2023 Author Share Posted November 10, 2023 And so, to the assembly. Getting the bits together is easy, Gavin has everything very clearly labelled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted November 10, 2023 Author Share Posted November 10, 2023 However...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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