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Painting Advice Please


mike4444244
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Evening All,

I'd like some advice on repainting my 110 please...

firstly, I'm slightly confused by which paint to use, I take it I should use cellulose because it dosent need special breathing equipment? Is this the stuff where you get a base colour and then apply a clear over the top?

secondly, does this process sound right to you?

wash car

sand gently with 400 grit

wash car

spray etch primer x2 coats

spray colour x 3 coats

wet sand colour with 1200 grit

spray clear x 3 coats

wax car

Unfortunately I'll probably have to do this outside or at best in a makeshift tarpaulin tent, any ideas for avoiding next doors house going monte carlo blue?

The paint quality at the mo is fine, its just that every panel is a different shade of white as bits have been resprayed before (ex police) and i dont want a white 110 van anymore since i got shouted at at some roadworks for causing a delay :angry:

Finally, before someone suggests i pay a pro to do it, first theres no point as it will only get scratched up and dented more, second I cant afford to pay someone to do it <_<

Ta

Mike

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I use teamac brush paint enamel in my sparay gun use a 10% thinning solution total cost around £30 and the finish is about as good as you can get for an outside job - in fact its perfectly respectable really a little orange peel but thts down to my sparaying. I find teamac better than the stuff in halfords as it cures quickly and virtually no runs.

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I made a temporary tent in my back garden in order to paint catflap. Depending on the previous paint history, you may get a reaction between old paint and new. If this happens, then you will either have to strip all the old paint off or use barrier paint (barcote).

Method I used was:-

Wash panel

Rub down with 400 wet/dry used wet.

Filler where necessary.

Etch prime one coat where there was bare metal (do not rub etch prime down)

One coat hi-build primer - flat with 800-grit wet/dry used wet with small amount of washing up liquid added, then rinse.

5 successive layers of top coat, allowing drying time between each coat.

Allow to dry for 24 hours at approx 70deg, then T-cut and finally polish.

Cellulose paint should be diluted 40-50% thinners (use anti-bloom to play it safe)

Gun pressure between 45-55 psi.

Cellulose thinners isn't ok to breathe, although it won't do as much damage to your lungs/brain as twin pack etc, the fumes can make you dizzy/feel sick, and enough of it can give you a cracking headache. The fumes are also heavy/explosive.

Overspray becomes dry within a few seconds, so if any gets on your neighbours car, it'll be dry dust and not a problem as far as getting it off.

The above method is what I used, and I had excellent results.

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Les.

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i washed mine, sanded it & slapped on normal gloss with a 4" roller. carp finish unless your a distance away & squint. could be a lot better but i wasnt too worried as i'd picked a silly colour & expected to dent/scratch it anyway. radiator rollers seem to be the thing of choice if you decide not to spray.

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Yep, another silly colour here, and foam mini rollers from B&Q, thats what i have just used on my hybrid.

See Another Shires 100" Kingcab in Members Vehicles, and you'll see the colour.

It is enamel, great thing is, it has a quality to it that means it shrinks and 'looses' the brush marks.

Best thing i found even with roller, is to get the base prep done well, where i was abit lazy on panels you can see the texture of the primary, where it was rubbed down, it looks ok.

Too be fair, i am accepting that it will not be perfect, and it will get knocked offroad.

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Best thing i found even with roller, is to get the base prep done well, where i was abit lazy on panels you can see the texture of the primary, where it was rubbed down, it looks ok.

I'm planning on rollering the 109 with foam rollers, what did you do to prep yours? I was thinking spray-can primer for smoothness and then roller on the top coat.

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I'm planning on rollering the 109 with foam rollers, what did you do to prep yours? I was thinking spray-can primer for smoothness and then roller on the top coat.

Spray Can Primer is smooth, however, it gets very pricey, its hard to get a good uniform coverage with a grey primer(ie halfords). You might get away with a lighter dusting, it depends on your colour. I was putting a lighter green over darker green existing colour, it needed a good coating to stop it showing through.

Also i found that i needed to give the panels a really good rub down, especially where the paint had gone flakey. This then gave me bare ali, so i needed an etch primer. I ended up doing the whole truck in light grey etch primer, bought from halfords, in a 2.5litre tin. I was lucky and got it half price the day i wandered in. Its normally £25. However, i have primed the whole truck with two good coats and still have lots left over, for the inside of the cab/ bed etc.

This is a heck of alot cheaper than grey primer at £5/can for 300ml!! One can in a good coat only did the bonnet!!

I rubbed down the old paint with a coarse sand paper, cos the original paint was soo rough. Then washed all the panels with white spirit, rubbed them clean and attacked it with the grey primer on a foam roller. The stuff goes miles on coverage, and is touch dry in 10mins (in warm weather). The primer is like a thick emulsion, and the foam roller left a texture(due to air) in the surface. I was a bit lazy, and did not rub it down, so have a texture in the paint in places, where it was rubbed down it has gone on nice and smooth. Once the enamel goes 'tacky' leave it as this is when it is curing and when it 'shrinks' and goes smooth. The paint i used was advised to me by a paint factors in Quayside Road in Soton, i will hunt out the details if you would like them. The Green i got, cost £10/litre, and i got 3litres, still got enough to repaint the truck a second time, which i will be doing shortly, to try and improve my 'texture' finish.

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Hi Les

Thanks for that, just a couple of qs, what paint did you use, how much was it, how much do i need for a 110, and where do i get it from :)

also is it sufficient to rub down the panels to get a key for the new paint or would you recommend etch primer, i'm going to get some anyway cos i fitted a new back door that came badly sprayed in cheap primer, so i'm taking that back to bare metal...

Thanks

Mike

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I used some new and some old panels. The roof took the cellulose paint (bright yellow) with no problems, and I just flatted it down with 400, 800, one coat of hi-build primer, flat with 800, then almost a whole litre of paint, so not sure of ther number of coats. I had to use barrier paint on the sides and rear tub, because the cellulose reacted with the old paint.

You only need to use etch prime if you go down to the bare metal.

The paint is cellulose and is £25-ish for a litre, but I used metallic, which is a bit dearer.

Not sure of quantity - it depends a lot on the difference in colour between what's on there now, and the new colour. A light colour, such as white on top of dark blue will use a lot more paint than ,say, dark blue on white. To reduce the amount of top coat you need to use with a big colour difference, it's easier and quicker to use a primer anyway, as it tends to be thicker.

Beware the fumes of etch primer, it's so called because it contains acid, so don't breathe it in.

Les.

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Rollers are ok, but getting the paint thickness consistant is the hardest bit.

I flatted mine between coats, the finish was better in some places than others. I wasnt too bothered though as Ive now dented every panel except bonnet, rad panel and bulkhead :rolleyes: the tailgates bare metal at the moment!!!

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@ Les Henson,

I am intending tot rebuild my 90 completely.

A respray to Zambezi Silver is on tha cards.

I read that you use filler.

Is this worthwile on a vehicle that wil be used afterwards to go competing in France?

( Trophee Cevennol, 1000 Rivières, Croisière Blanche, ...)

Cheers in advance!

Roel

Belgium

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You lot really are a bunch of tarts arent you??? I dont even bother washing the mud of of mine before I touch it up - I just paint over it.......

Dont bother rubbing down either.......takes about 20 minutes with a 3" brush to do the entire truck. NATO green is great - cos its matt it hides all the dents! Only trouble is it fades so if you touch a bit up it takes a couple of months to fade i with the rest of the paintwork. I used to repaint the whole truck, but I dont bother now cos in places the paint is getting on for 1/4" thick!

Jon

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u touch yours up? :ph34r:

i just wait til i've rubbed it all down (on a tree :lol: ) then repaint with the biggest brush i can find, i'm with jon, i dont even bother washing it before painting, just knock the big lumps off ;)

Buit like on my old 90 when i painted it nato. Everyone used to ask me when sanding i did because it looked good. And Jules wopuld always chip in with sand it , sand it the ruff ar*e did not even wash it :)

But that is where me and Jules got the term The 10 Foot spray Job. Looks fantasic from 10 foot away but carp up close :):)

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