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Clutch and oil leaks


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The clutch will have to be replaced probably next week as it has started to slip now.

whilst I'm doing that

there is a couple of oil leaks to attend to(I know only 2, I must be lucky)

is there a seal on the front of the R380 that can be replaced as there is gearbox oil seeping between the bell housing and the R380

is the seal one I can replace without a gearbox strip/rebuild?

then there is the L230 perennial leak

I replaced the seal between that and the R380 late last year but it is leaking again

I used a genuine seal and a bead of RTV around the outside on the Ali casing but again it is leaking

the breather is clear

any thoughts suggestions?

could a larger breather be required as I have the under drive fitted?

any clutch changing tips also very welcomed as this will be the first on this L/R

this one has lasted 43k which I'm happy with considering the type of use it has seen.

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I would guess that the intermediate shaft seal on the LT230 is leaking, this is especially true if the box has a good few miles on it. IIRC it is sealed by an ‘o’ ring and in the case of Ashcroft rebuilds it is further sealed by sealant. ;) When this leaks it seeps EP from the LT230 to G/box face, giving the impression that the input shaft seal is leaking.

I turned up an alignment tool for the V8 ........... but I see these days that clutch alignment kits from the likes of draper are cheap enough that messing about making stuff is not worthwhile or indeed cost effective timewise.




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If you are just going to slide the gearbox back, then you'll have to remove the underdrive, as it'll only allow the gearbox to go backwards about 3-inches.

I have this if you want to borrow it. Can bung it in the post, and after it's been to Scotland, France, Calcutta, etc :) - should get to you Tues or Wed.



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Cheers Les.

Ian is the "O" Ring replaceable without total strip down?

anyone know about the front of the R380 regarding seals.

If the seals can be done I'll have to removed the underdrive/LT230/R380 to sort them which would be better than just ignoring the leaks.

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There's a seal and a gasket under the front cover. The seal for an LT77 is FTC5303 which I think is the same for an R380. Easy to replace - 6 bolts and 10 minutes once the box is out.

Don't forget the pictures of the Intermediate Shaft O Ring replacement when you do it. It's one of those jobs I've yet to get to. :rolleyes:

Paul :)

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anyone know about the front of the R380 regarding seals.

Yes, not a difficult job. Had to be changed (along with the rear main oil seal) when doing the clutch on mine about 3 years ago. You may find the weepy seal's contaminated the clutch plate - that was part of the problem with mine.

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Thanks Dave

would some sealant on the outside suffice?

other wise reading the manual it appears to be a job for new crushable spacers and special tools to reset the preload,

The LT230/Crawler/R380 are all out

just the flywheel to remove so I can do the main seal

getting te R380 out leaving the gearbox x member in is a tricky number :)

old clutch is worn clutch fork is ok though, I have a Henson special to refit and a new clutch

the 130 one I have is 5-10mm bigger diameter than the old one coming out

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the intermediate shaft will wait after reading the job description

I don't fancy stripping the LT230 then rebuilding especially with all the mentions of Special tools :(


As I know you, I would say that this job is well within your capability.................

The only special tools I can see mentioned are the press tools .............. and even is you renew the bearings, you can do it without them, just like you would on an input gear...................... and the 'special dummy shaft'.............. all this does is holds the assembly together and in alignmet in order to drift the shaft through the assembly ...................... any piece of similar diameter bar stock will do the trick ................... the preload is set by just removing the endfloat . This assembly is no different to the old collapsable spacer wheel bearing assemblies found on older cars (mainly Triumph).

If it is the 'o' ring (and I strongly suspect it is) then it would be a shame not to do it whilst you have the box out ................. as is will get much worse to the point where you will have an ep90 coated rear door.........................although to replace a clutch I prefer to take the engine out.



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Well I read your post too late Ian :)

I put RTV on the outside to stop any oil escape

it does appear from the tracks of oil that it was coming from the 2 13mm bolts in the front face of the LT230 where the R380 bolts on

So I have PTFE taped these to Whilst there.

Replaced the Front seal in the R380 and RTV'd the cover back on.

replaced the clutch

refitted the gearbox/transferbox and crawler box plus the handbrake just the Props and floor panels to go but I had to stop for other commitments. :(

hopefully finish up tomorrow am.

Paul the old clutch plate (Valeo) was 9 1/4 inches in Diameter the new one (AP Borg Beck) is 9 1/2 inches diameter.

less springs on the cover plate than the older one too.

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Cheers Les :)

Took 4hrs Monday/5.5hrs Tuesday and 3hrs total today

all back together and as I type not leaking

getting the gearbox back in past the cross member was awkward but once in the LT230 went back on easy and the crawler mucked me about for a while.

greased all the prop joints (10 in total) re fitted the floor cubby box and seat.

I reckon with help you could do it all in a good day.

I replaced:

clutch complete

release arm with a Les special

spigot bush

8 new flywheel bolts as they are single use (cheers Mo for the info)

rear main crank seal

gearbox input seal

LT230 input seal

RTV'd the intermediate shaft incase

PTFE taped the 13mm bolts in the face of the LT230

and sealed the entire bellhousing

various studs in the bellhousing

new PTO cover gaskets for the Crawler.

came to a total cost around £80 using only genuine parts

saved myself a fair few quid on the cost of getting it done.

a nice warm garage would be nicer than a slope covered in gravel, maybe one day.

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Paul the old clutch plate (Valeo) was 9 1/4 inches in Diameter the new one (AP Borg Beck) is 9 1/2 inches diameter.

less springs on the cover plate than the older one too.

Thanks Tony.

That's rather interesting really. My old clutch was an AP and I replaced it with a Valeo 130. They were both near enough to exactly the same diameter (9½ inches), but like you, the valeo had more springs. It seems I must have had a 130 clutch in all the time. :rolleyes:

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