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The Bodging B*****DS!


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Because whoever fiddled with my gearbox thought it would be a idea to leave out a gasket or two, so I when drove into the lake at Farley quarry (see video shack) and the bloody thing just filled with water...RAGE!!!

arrh...rant over...I feel a bit better now!

Anyway I've opened the top up (the best I can without removing the gearbox or seat box) and it doesn't look bad to be fair, just a bit "milky" :rolleyes:

So just couple of questions if you would be so kind:

- the best way to wash out the "milky-ness"?

- what kind of oil do I need to put in after I've drained it?

- does anyone know where I can buy the two smaller gear gaiters (that go under the main one) that cover the main high box ball joint / spring, and the the low box / diff lock? I've look on ebay, Cradock's, Famous 4's, MM4x4 and Paddock Spares, none of them have them, I'm going to APB Trading to get the gaskets but they didn't know which gaiters I meant so it doesn't look promising. Any ideas?

Thanks

SPT

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They may well have fitted all of the correct gaskets. Water ingress doesnt neccessarily mean that someone bodged the gearbox. Welcome to owning a Land Rover :)

Drain the emulsion, refill with EP90, drive for 30mins, drain, refill, job done

I like to use ATF in most things - its not strictly a gear oil as it is not a lubricant, but it can withstand a lot of water contamination and still perfrom its job

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They may well have fitted all of the correct gaskets. Water ingress doesnt neccessarily mean that someone bodged the gearbox. Welcome to owning a Land Rover :)

Drain the emulsion, refill with EP90, drive for 30mins, drain, refill, job done

I like to use ATF in most things - its not strictly a gear oil as it is not a lubricant, but it can withstand a lot of water contamination and still perfrom its job

Ha ha thanks, yea I'd thought that would be the case, but there's quite cleary a couple of gaskets missing as it was just metal on metal, with a slight red mark here and there from where it had been scraped off! I remember thinking "my, that came off easily...oh wait" :o

Cheers for the info, it is EP90 then, I seem to remember someone saying there was a better one to put, GS something maybe? but it could well have been this ATF you mention, is it readily available from the usual places?

thanks

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If you have a 5 speed gearbox, DO NOT put EP90 into it. It should be filled with ATF which is thinner and will NOT damage the oil pump in the gearbox. Otherwise, I agree that flushing with fresh oil is about the best you can do.

The transfer box should be filled with EP90.

Chris

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If you have a 5 speed gearbox, DO NOT put EP90 into it. It should be filled with ATF which is thinner and will NOT damage the oil pump in the gearbox. Otherwise, I agree that flushing with fresh oil is about the best you can do.

The transfer box should be filled with EP90.

Chris

Ok thanks Chris, ATF it is! That could have cost me

Anybody any idea about these gaiters then?

Cheers

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The correct oil is MTF94, although ATF works. The transfer box needs EP90.

Easiest way to flush is to drain, refill with oil and drive for a while (10-100 miles, not critical) so the box gets up to temperature, then drain again and refill with fresh. You may want to use cheap ATF for the flush since it's not going to be in there long.

I would check your axle and engine oils too, as has been said water will get in even if everything's OK.

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Its is best flushed with ATF ……………… filling with MTF is an option………. but IIRC LR still recommend Dextron ATF II or III for LT77 & LT77S boxes……..there is a lot written on this subject ……… the book seems far from closed.

As Chris rightly says, under no circumstances fill the box with EP90 or the pump in the front of the box will break ………..

As a point of interest ………….. have you checked the G/box breather for integrity, and / or have you extended it ?

Also if your G/box has water ingress (that may or may not have entered from the breather), it may pay to check the transfer box as this breather is terminated in the same place as std.

:)

Ian

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Its is best flushed with ATF ……………… filling with MTF is an option………. but IIRC LR still recommend Dextron ATF II or III for LT77 & LT77S boxes……..there is a lot written on this subject ……… the book seems far from closed.

As Chris rightly says, under no circumstances fill the box with EP90 or the pump in the front of the box will break ………..

As a point of interest ………….. have you checked the G/box breather for integrity, and / or have you extended it ?

Also if your G/box has water ingress (that may or may not have entered from the breather), it may pay to check the transfer box as this breather is terminated in the same place as std.

:)

Ian

Cheers Ian for the further oil choice, but I think I'll definately take Ashcrofts advice on the ATF as it's the one that's been mentioned the most, if that makes sense?

I had a look at the G/B breather and it looked ok from what I could see, but I will be extending them all as I've only done the front axle...a little pointless I know doing only one but the original was non-exsistant! :o

I'll drain the T/B too then...hmmm I wonder if you can buy job lots od EP90 and ATF..... :lol:

What's the best way to extend the pipes, join another to the end of the standard one, or will a wading kit have ones long enough to reach from the G/B and T/B? Also where's the best place to run the rear axle to? Somewhere on the back or all the way to the front and up the snorkel with the others?

Cheers

Dan

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I'll drain the T/B too then...hmmm I wonder if you can buy job lots od EP90 and ATF..... :lol:

Yes you can - the local motor factors will sell you a 25l drum of EP90 and probably the same of ATF.

BTW extended breathers can be made cheaply with push-fit pneumatic bits, look in the tech archive.

Oh and running breathers up to the snorkel has been blamed for sucking oil out of axles :blink: all my breathers are run to roof height in the cab.

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Yes you can - the local motor factors will sell you a 25l drum of EP90 and probably the same of ATF.

BTW extended breathers can be made cheaply with push-fit pneumatic bits, look in the tech archive.

Oh and running breathers up to the snorkel has been blamed for sucking oil out of axles :blink: all my breathers are run to roof height in the cab.

Cheers I'll have a look.....

Sucking oil out of axles? :o:o how?

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All of my breathers vent in the same place. I don't have a pic to hand but as I have a homemade snorkel I routed the pipes up 1 side over the top and then about 4" down the otherside. Using cable ties to secure in place. Nice and neat and no sucking up of oil from any componant.

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You won't find any gaskets on a defender gearbox.

They don't have any, you use gasket sealant to mate the cases.

Same goes for the sump

What??? thanks for the input <_<

Anyway have been out and got all gaskets, and two lots of dextron 3, ordered new gaiters that arrive next week. I'll then fit a wading kit, but sadly as I've got a 2.8 Isuzu in my 90 I'll have to have plates made up for the timing cover etc, if it needs one that is, anyone know?

But I'd just like to say thanks to all those who've helped me on this you've been a great help :i-m_so_happy:

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What??? thanks for the input <_<

Anyway have been out and got all gaskets, and two lots of dextron 3, ordered new gaiters that arrive next week. I'll then fit a wading kit, but sadly as I've got a 2.8 Isuzu in my 90 I'll have to have plates made up for the timing cover etc, if it needs one that is, anyone know?

But I'd just like to say thanks to all those who've helped me on this you've been a great help :i-m_so_happy:

I have just rebuilt an R380 and was told there are on gaskets, so...

What G/box do you have and What gaskets did you get ie where do they fit,

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i can recommend R Whitehouse & Son on Halfpenny green airport trading estate - they are landrover gearbox specialists - they rebuild them but I'm sure would be glad to help with queires or maybe order a part for you - good guys and know what they're on about. 01384 221304

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If you have a 5 speed gearbox, DO NOT put EP90 into it. It should be filled with ATF which is thinner and will NOT damage the oil pump in the gearbox.

Chris

At work in the past I have had to use whatever was available. If ATF, Cold Climate, Pentasin or Multitrans could not be used then either 5w30 fully synthetic engine oil or EP90 diluted down with diesel both worked well with no recorded failures so far

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