Daz800 Posted January 1, 2008 Share Posted January 1, 2008 i can have as much ali plate as i like from work (can use the trumph and brakepress anytime). the thing i would not do is use it to cover up any rot. My next couple of plates to cut and bend are for covers for my 2 gas tanks. i may even make a petrol tank and sump guard. Daz just for the record i made my light bar and the lights came from work when we had new emergency lights installed.. result Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzie1989 Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 If you are going to buy any chequerplate, get the 3mm Anodised or Paddocks Deluxe (same thing just different wording) stuff. It's thicker so stronger, and because it's anodised it looks a lot better and resists fading from the sun. The rubbish 2mm stuff the previous owner put on looks tatty, so I'm slowly replacing it all. I've got wing tops out of preference, past owner fitted it to sills, bumper tops (standard) and the NAS spec rear bumper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiscoStu Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 I think a bit of chequer plate looks ok as long as it's not too OTT. I'm gonna do it beneath the rubbing strips on the sides of my Disco, I've already got a big crease along one door so a bit of armour wouldnt go amiss IMO. I'd like a tailgate card also, my original item has more or less given up now, full of cracks and just plain ugly. Kits from Paddock, MM etc al cost somewhere in the region of £80 whilst an 8x4 sheet of "5 bar Tread plate" costs about £40 from a local place. Making templates etc should be easy enough but when your only options are hack saw or jigsaw I'm thinking it might be wisest to by the kit! Stu. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MickStobbs Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 One of the best uses for cheqer IMHO has to be the floor pans,especially if you get in with mud on ya boots regular Regards,Mick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonJon Posted January 2, 2008 Author Share Posted January 2, 2008 One of the best uses for cheqer IMHO has to be the floor pans,especially if you get in with mud on ya boots regular Regards,Mick That's a good idea. Is it put in in the same way? Do you remove the flooring material down to metal, grease then rivet like the earlier poster said? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted January 2, 2008 Share Posted January 2, 2008 That's a good idea. Is it put in in the same way? Do you remove the flooring material down to metal, grease then rivet like the earlier poster said? nope you just replicate the original panel in treadplate , stick your floor panel on the treadplate, draw round it, mark screw holes and cut it out with a jig saw mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boot Posted January 3, 2008 Share Posted January 3, 2008 If you are going to buy any chequerplate, get the 3mm Anodised or Paddocks Deluxe (same thing just different wording) stuff. It's thicker so stronger, and because it's anodised it looks a lot better and resists fading from the sun. The rubbish 2mm stuff the previous owner put on looks tatty, so I'm slowly replacing it all. I totally agree. Much better quality than the 2mm. I've fitted wing tops, bonnet protector and sill protector all in Paddocks Deluxe 3mm Chequer Plate. Is it east to fit? Yes and No. It's depends on your level of competency. The cheap 2mm can be riveted on easily, however the 3mm stuff I've been buying is supplied with short M6 screws washers and nuts. The wing tops I managed with nuts and a lot of fiddling about taking bits off for access to hold the nuts underneath. I found it to be more of a fiddle than I expected. When it came to fitting the bonnet protector this had 11 holes IIRC, only two of which didn't go in to a cavity (flip the bonnet up and have a gander, that extra skin of metal (is this for support anyone?) is were all your nuts need to be held (as it were). For this I bought a rivnut/rivet nut/nutsert tool, and wished I'd bought it before adding the wing tops! Certainly the easiest way to add the 3mm CP if you want it to look right. So "Yes" it is easy to fit if you have the right tools, but "No" not as easy as it looks or should be, if you don't. Don't forget to seal where you've drilled. I also blocked up the end of the rivnut with the sealing stuff I used. Think it was Geocel Crystal something or other, which is silicone free so shouldn't rot. FYI - The bonnet protector was so I can stand on the bonnet as I only have short legs, the wing tops were to hide several years' worth of dents from being leaned on and the sills were bling (which seem to make the biggest difference incidentally). Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boot Posted January 3, 2008 Share Posted January 3, 2008 You shouldn't need to. The dealer suggested that it was rubbing becuase the "tollerances are so much tighter on the 07 model". "Ahh", I said, "so why is there a good 5mm clearance on the other side then?". After fitting my sills, all door opened and closed fine, with the exception of the driver's door. This hung slightly lower and was rubbing the top of the sill on opening and closing. I loosened the hinge bolts, blocked the door up from the sill and retightened. That seems to have done the job. The workshop manual suggests to undo the check strap when doing this I think, however I'm not sure why that would be necessary, so didn't bother. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92.9 Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 Are most outer bodywork chequer plate panels (wing top, bonnet, lower rear quarters etc) intended to be fitted by rivetting/bolting, or is Sikaflex a common alternative? There are a lot of nice Land Rovers out there for sale that have (depending on what you like I suppose) been ruined with an excess of chequer plate, so if it's all bolted/rivetted then it would leave a car full of holes once removed. I'm just thinking of prospective purchases here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antony110 Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 ive got wing tops completely for the bling factoris it easy to do? yes buy the chequer plate, cover the flat side completely in grease (so not to act as a water trap and promote rust) then rivet down. simple!! hi exscuse my ignorance but as both the wing top and the chequer plate are made out of aliminium or birmerbright do they rust when put together? regards antony110 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 hi exscuse my ignorance but as both the wing top and the chequer plate are made out of aliminium or birmerbright do they rust when put together?regards antony110 Won't rust as such like steel, but if moisture gets between the 2 surfaces corrosion will take place & show as holes & white powder substance, I used clear silicone sealer around the edges of my wingtop tread plate [5 bar type] to stop that problem, seems to be fine so far after at least 12 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
antony110 Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 Won't rust as such like steel, but if moisture gets between the 2 surfaces corrosion will take place & show as holes & white powder substance, I used clear silicone sealer around the edges of my wingtop tread plate [5 bar type] to stop that problem, seems to be fine so far after at least 12 years. than you western you always have informative answers to my basic questions regards antony110 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jen90csw Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 I inherited my csw with sill protectors in CP and have step plates on the bumper(cos im a short ass and it helps me see the engine bay)and have rear 1/4 protectors to put on, but think that i will restrain myself then as it is to easy to get carried away! Altho its a good wind up to say to my fella ,im gonna cover the lot in it ,save him keeping on getting the polish out! Landrover dictionary- Boltox -application of unecessary items to your Landrover,for the sake of looks rather than function! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 I inherited some on the wings, which is very useful. Could have done with some on the bonnet for roofrack access, but it's too late now as the bonnet is all bendy. The sills are a bit mangled from various offroad excursions, but they'll stay like that till I have the cash for some tree sliders. Recently added rear quarter panels to straighten out and (possibly) strenghten them. I've never had a rear door card. I'll probably put a chequer plate one on it at some point so I can mount stuff on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92.9 Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 Are most outer bodywork chequer plate panels (wing top, bonnet, lower rear quarters etc) intended to be fitted by rivetting/bolting, or is Sikaflex a common alternative? There are a lot of nice Land Rovers out there for sale that have (depending on what you like I suppose) been ruined with an excess of chequer plate, so if it's all bolted/rivetted then it would leave a car full of holes once removed. I'm just thinking of prospective purchases here! I'll get my coat . . . . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dads Toy Posted June 11, 2009 Share Posted June 11, 2009 Put the 3mm stuff on my wings which not only covered all the dings and scratches etc but also made them a lot more rigid. Also fitted them to the sills which were starting to look a little tatty plus I sealed the edges with silicone to stop all the muck from underneath getting trapped which caused the original problem. Bling? maybe, but a lot more protection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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