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Recovery points


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Hi,

Since changing my rear x member I'm without recovery points on the back.

I've managed to get the old ones off but they've been on there for about 20 years and look in pretty rusty shape.

The front ones are the same but still attached.

Can I replace them with jate rings or should I put the old ones back on?

I will only need the points when I break down (which has happened a bit too often at the moment) as I don't go off road at the moment.

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Steve

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Probably the cheapest and easiest recovery point I have used is a standard 50mm tow ball bolted in its normal place on the x member. All real Landrovers should have a tow ball. Can be found for around a fiver in most motor factors, most people I know seem to have enough of them just lying around to use as door stops. If you decide to ever use it for off road recovery make sure there's a decent spreader plate behind the x member.

Michael

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Hmmm. I'm afraid I dont agree with your statment about real landrovers. I just put a tow ball on yesterday as I need to go and pick up a car on a trailer tomrrow and now I feel very much like a plastic 4x4 owner who has such limited capability off road with a huge plough at the back :unsure:

I think the best thing if you are not going to be off road is the tow ball. But for goodness sake, take it off if you want to do some real off roading and fit some decent recovery eyes or jate rings.

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Hmmm. I'm afraid I dont agree with your statment about real landrovers. I just put a tow ball on yesterday as I need to go and pick up a car on a trailer tomrrow and now I feel very much like a plastic 4x4 owner who has such limited capability off road with a huge plough at the back :unsure:

I think the best thing if you are not going to be off road is the tow ball. But for goodness sake, take it off if you want to do some real off roading and fit some decent recovery eyes or jate rings.

Or just make it so that the whole towing drop plate can be removed quickly and easily by pulling a pin out- oh and two M10 bolts as well...

For a rear recovery point I would personally go with a pair of Jate rings- easy to fit and bomb proof... If you leave them behind then you know that you have also left the rear quarter chassis behind :blink:

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I agree about the plough bit, but as Steve said he's not going off roading yet. Anyway I only meant bolt on a tow ball, not a drop plate as well. The ball on it's own won't cause a problem. My setup is a DB adjustable jobbie on a removable setup rather like scrapiron sell, only I made mine long before they did, and it's loads stronger [read heavier]. :D

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Hi,

Since changing my rear x member I'm without recovery points on the back.

I've managed to get the old ones off but they've been on there for about 20 years and look in pretty rusty shape.

The front ones are the same but still attached.

Can I replace them with jate rings or should I put the old ones back on?

I will only need the points when I break down (which has happened a bit too often at the moment) as I don't go off road at the moment.

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Steve

I do hope your not reffering to the oval plates with the large hole in them, as these are the tiedown point for transporters defo not recovery points, Jate rings or the NATO hitch or pin type towing attachment is the best for rear recovery use.

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Thanks for your replies.

I curently have a standard tow ball fitted but not overly keen on using it as a recovery point in case it slips.

I was thinking of putting hte jate rings in place of the original recovery eyes....

Ahh, just seen Westerns post and yes I do mean those oval eyes.

I have some right up the front near the front of the chassis rails and had to get towed home by the AA the other weekend and he used it.

Should I take the remaing ones out of the front and use the holes throught the chassis to fit jates??

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Ahh, just seen Westerns post and yes I do mean those oval eyes.

I have some right up the front near the front of the chassis rails and had to get towed home by the AA the other weekend and he used it.

Should I take the remaing ones out of the front and use the holes throught the chassis to fit jates??

Yep, remove the lashing eyes and fit jate rings :)

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Hi Steve,

If you are just concerned about being recovered on the road, as your post implies, the standard lashing rings that you have are perfectly adequate. Every vehicle manufacturer provides a tow/lashing point on their vehicles. The Land Rover handbook specifically refers to them as tow points for recovery on the road. They are NOT suitable for heavy recovery offroad as has been stated.

Regards,

Diff

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I am looking for some rear recovery points, which jate rings are the one to go for? The paddocks ones are £17 but cheapest isn't usually best, so is the extra £15 for the first four offroad ones worth it?

Also, if a rope has to bend around a steering guard to get to a jate ring on the front, that would be dangerous, wouldn't it? I assume the only safe thing is an uninterupted path from the recovery point to the other vehicle.

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Hi Steve,

If you are just concerned about being recovered on the road, as your post implies, the standard lashing rings that you have are perfectly adequate. Every vehicle manufacturer provides a tow/lashing point on their vehicles. The Land Rover handbook specifically refers to them as tow points for recovery on the road. They are NOT suitable for heavy recovery offroad as has been stated.

Regards,

Diff

Cheer Diff.

It towed without a problem using the front lashing points but the ones on the back came off with the old x member and need to be replaced so I figure I might as well do the front at the same time.

I'd rather have over rated recovery points than find it going wrong.

Steve

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Cheer Diff.

It towed without a problem using the front lashing points but the ones on the back came off with the old x member and need to be replaced so I figure I might as well do the front at the same time.

I'd rather have over rated recovery points than find it going wrong.

Steve

I agree completely, if you are replacing, you might as well upgrade if you have even the slightest thoughts about needing something stronger in the future.

Regards,

Diff

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Also, if a rope has to bend around a steering guard to get to a jate ring on the front, that would be dangerous, wouldn't it? I assume the only safe thing is an uninterupted path from the recovery point to the other vehicle.

What kind of steering guard do you have?

Yes, the strop/line should not bind on the steering guard when attached. You might have to cut the guard for it to clear.

Best method is to use a 1.5m strop attached to both jate rings and looped through your recovery strap. That way, the load is spread between both chassis rails.

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I am looking for some rear recovery points, which jate rings are the one to go for? The paddocks ones are £17 but cheapest isn't usually best, so is the extra £15 for the first four offroad ones worth it?

Also, if a rope has to bend around a steering guard to get to a jate ring on the front, that would be dangerous, wouldn't it? I assume the only safe thing is an uninterupted path from the recovery point to the other vehicle.

Personally, I would go for the one piece (forged is the term, I think) ones as pictured below... Avoid the ones with two flat plates and a bit of bar welded between them.

a338_1.JPG

There are also wider versions available. There are part numbers for the genuine LR ones on here somewhere...

There are a selection to choose from on ebay - hope the sellers don't mind me 'borrowing' their picture!!

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