draper40 Posted May 31, 2008 Share Posted May 31, 2008 Hey, What make of timing belt would you recommend using for a 200tdi? When I opened up the timing case it was full of engine oil coming along the crankshaft. I took off the timing case and found the oil was coming from the camshaft dripping down behind the timing case but then coming out via the crankshaft. Does the camshaft oil seal need replacing or is this the normal route for oil from the camshaft? I realise the crankshaft seal in the case needs replacing to stop oil getting into the case but not sure whether this also indicates a problem with the crankshaft seals. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted May 31, 2008 Share Posted May 31, 2008 Dayco belt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat_pending Posted May 31, 2008 Share Posted May 31, 2008 Ditto, Dayco. Replace both the cam and crank seals. Use O/E or genuine seals not cheap rubbish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 31, 2008 Share Posted May 31, 2008 Wot they said ^^^^^^^^^^ Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
draper40 Posted May 31, 2008 Author Share Posted May 31, 2008 Are the cam and crank seals both mounted in the timing case housing or doI need to dissemble more on the engine side? Also the outer keyway is badly distorted- any bright ideas? Are the seals from Paddocks okay or wherelse should I get them from? Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 31, 2008 Share Posted May 31, 2008 There are three seals - The outer cover seal, which is actually called a dust seal, then the crankshaft front oil seal, which is behind the sprocket that the timing belt runs on. The camshaft oil seal is behind the camshaft timing belt sprocket. I don't change the camshaft oil seal unless it's leaking. The cam and crank seals are in the housing and changing them only requires removal of the sprockets. The keyway you refer to - is it the crankshaft woodruff keyway? If the damage is slight, then a new woodruff key and torque seal used on assembly should cure the problem. If the keyway is badly damaged, then repair the crank, replace the crank, or bodge it with Chemical metal, Araldite, or similar. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
draper40 Posted May 31, 2008 Author Share Posted May 31, 2008 And are paddocks okay for the seals? Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted May 31, 2008 Share Posted May 31, 2008 Specify genuine seals - if they can't supply them, then get them eslewhere. There more dodgy oil seal suppliers than you can shake a stick at. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_a Posted June 1, 2008 Share Posted June 1, 2008 If you are taking off the camshaft sprocket there is a specific way of doing it in the WSM, you really need to follow it as otherwise it will screw the timing. I haven't done this myself, but I noted the issue when I was doing the timing belt some weeks back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted June 1, 2008 Share Posted June 1, 2008 Use Corteco seals, they are OEM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muzaz Posted June 1, 2008 Share Posted June 1, 2008 when you take the bolt and washer securing the camshaft sprocket check that you have an o-ring under the washer... Regarding the keyway as Les said, if its just slightly damaged leave it, I had mine fixed...but only because the crank was already out! If you are taking off the camshaft sprocket there is a specific way of doing it in the WSM, you really need to follow it as otherwise it will screw the timing. I haven't done this myself, but I noted the issue when I was doing the timing belt some weeks back. You sure?...cause in that case I'm in trouble! But as far as I know the sprocket has got a keyway, you can only fix it in one position.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_a Posted June 1, 2008 Share Posted June 1, 2008 Hmmmm.... the crank has a keyway, so that is easy, looking in WSM the camshaft also appears keyed, it's a bit unclear, but perhaps it was the injection pump that has the issue about the alining of the timing marks that need to be taken care of. it may have been a HBOL statement too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 1, 2008 Share Posted June 1, 2008 Both Crank & cam shafts have woodruff keyways to locate/time them, the injection pump gear has 3 bolts & these have to be released/retightened during the pump timing process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muzaz Posted June 2, 2008 Share Posted June 2, 2008 Both Crank & cam shafts have woodruff keyways to locate/time them, the injection pump gear has 3 bolts & these have to be released/retightened during the pump timing process. so that would be my problem then... bought the pump without a sprocket and hub... guess will have a hardtime to get the clockwork right... anyway that stage is still lightyears away! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted June 2, 2008 Share Posted June 2, 2008 If I remember correctly - you can only assemble the injector pump sprocket one way, so you can't get it wrong. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted June 2, 2008 Share Posted June 2, 2008 Yes, it'll only fit one way, due to the three holes and the location of the hole for the locking pin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muzaz Posted June 2, 2008 Share Posted June 2, 2008 Ok great, just hope that the guy at diesel shop fixed the hub properly on the pump!.......and that reminds me I have to call the guy to check he finished calibrating the injectors and servicing the pump...I think 3 months have passed since I took them to his shop!!! thanks for reminding me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedsmart Posted June 2, 2008 Share Posted June 2, 2008 There are three seals - The outer cover seal, which is actually called a dust seal, then the crankshaft front oil seal, which is behind the sprocket that the timing belt runs on. The camshaft oil seal is behind the camshaft timing belt sprocket. I don't change the camshaft oil seal unless it's leaking. The cam and crank seals are in the housing and changing them only requires removal of the sprockets. The keyway you refer to - is it the crankshaft woodruff keyway? If the damage is slight, then a new woodruff key and torque seal used on assembly should cure the problem. If the keyway is badly damaged, then repair the crank, replace the crank, or bodge it with Chemical metal, Araldite, or similar.Les. Les sorry to jump in on the Q's but what do you use to pull/prise off the crank shaft gear /pully? Cheers Ted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb Posted June 2, 2008 Share Posted June 2, 2008 I am interested by the Dayco recommendations....I was under the impression that Gates where OEM for the 200Tdi cam belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muzaz Posted June 2, 2008 Share Posted June 2, 2008 I bought a QH one, is that good or maybe its better to use other brands? on the box there was written OE part but then anyone can write what he wants! as for your question ted, I thing that the pulley and damper will need some force to come out depending on the state of the crank, mine was corroded and the keyway not perfect, so I had to hammer lever it out, but the smaller crank sprocket which sits behind the timing cover was easy to take out, just levered it out with a screwdriver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 Les sorry to jump in on the Q's but what do you use to pull/prise off the crank shaft gear /pully? I'd be careful about levering the sprockets off the timing chest, it's not the strongest. To remove the sprocket, you'll see 2 threaded holes in it. Drill an iron bar with two holes in the same location Run 2 bolts through the bar and into the sprocket. Place a suitably sized socket between the bar and the crank nose. Tighten each bolt evenly and this'll pull the sprocket off the crank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 Or buy a timing kit. They include the correct pullers and don't cost that much. You can lend them to friends for beer..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted June 3, 2008 Share Posted June 3, 2008 Crank pulley puller - A thick bar with 2 x 9mm holes drilled through 75mm centre to centre and 2 x M8 bolts. The crank bolt is undone a few turns at a time and the socket is just there to locate the bar on a flat surface. A smaller tool with 7mm holes and 6mm bolts to pull the sprocket off. Typical crank nose once the pulley is off. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedsmart Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 Crank pulley puller - A thick bar with 2 x 9mm holes drilled through 75mm centre to centre and 2 x M8 bolts. The crank bolt is undone a few turns at a time and the socket is just there to locate the bar on a flat surface. A smaller tool with 7mm holes and 6mm bolts to pull the sprocket off. Typical crank nose once the pulley is off. Les. Thanks for that lads what size bolts ( length) and how do you get the pully & crank back on when your putting it all back together? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted June 4, 2008 Share Posted June 4, 2008 I don't actually know the length of the bolts, but you need three different lengths as the bolt thread will push off/damage the dust shield behind the pulley. The bolts are M8 coarse thread and hi-tensile. There's never a problem putting the sprocket and pulley back on. You clean all the rust off the crank nose and they just slide back on like a greased whippet up a drainpipe Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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