western Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 I need to replace the swivel seals at some point. Am I right in thinking I can split the stub axle from the axle case at the ring of bolts & remove the hub assembly complete with CV & driveshaft,disc/caliper, swap the swivel seal & then refit, I don't want to cut the new seal to fit it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_a Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 I was about to say you might get away with it, but on second thoughts I don't think you will unless you detach the brake line. The drive shaft that runs from the CV to the diff will be too long to manouvre. You could take the caliper off, that's two bolts plus the two on the top pin, that would allow you to remove the whole thing. Won't it be a big wieght, since it will be the drive shaft and CV as well, and about 4ft long or something. Sounds like a two person job, especially when reassembly takes place, as you need to align the drive shaft with the axle. Not sure I'd do that, I'd either consider cutting the seal as I've seen suggested and put the join at the top or just bite the bullet and take apart fully. nice weather for it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 Ralph no prob pull tha caliper off then take the swivel off the axle complete stand it upright and replace the swivel seal, to save leaks. refit job done took me about 1hr to do one of mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 8, 2006 Author Share Posted January 8, 2006 (edited) Cheers Guys, I should have said 'I'll take tha caliper off & tie it up, so I don't have to bleed the brakes' looks like a job for next weekend, need tha seals/gaskets now I'll take some pics of each step, then it can go in the 'Tech Archive' Edited January 8, 2006 by western Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shingwell Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 I have just done this, no problem. As others have said tie the brake caliper out of the way. It's quite heavy but not impossibly so. The half shaft comes out with it but it's quite easy to get back. I have read that you can install a new seal without removing the hub by cutting the new seal and installing it under the seal cover with the cut at the top. In fact this is what I found when I replaced mine, which is probably why I needed to replace it.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest diesel_jim Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 And make sure you tie the caliper up well... mine fell of when i "balanced" it on the radius arm, and it broke the small metal pipe that goes into the caliper... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 8, 2006 Author Share Posted January 8, 2006 And make sure you tie the caliper up well... mine fell of when i "balanced" it on the radius arm, and it broke the small metal pipe that goes into the caliper... I'll tie wrap it to the spring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneten110 Posted January 9, 2006 Share Posted January 9, 2006 I have been doing mine this way for sometime, with 3 trucks I get plenty of practice. The only difficulty I have ever encountered is supporting the weight when re-fitting, especially trying to fit the long halfshaft back into the diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted January 9, 2006 Share Posted January 9, 2006 I have read that you can install a new seal without removing the hub by cutting the new seal and installing it under the seal cover with the cut at the top. In fact this is what I found when I replaced mine, which is probably why I needed to replace it.... I've done the axle strip method and the cut the seal method. The second one is quicker but, if you do it, you need to cut it very carefully and then glue it (again very carefully) otherwise it'll let water in the first time you hit a puddle. I normally strip the axle when I replace the seals as its a good time to check CV, stub axle and bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted January 9, 2006 Share Posted January 9, 2006 Oh And when you undo the top 2 bolts that hold the barke line to claiper.....the swivel will leak I Know this from the old stain on the drive............... Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted January 9, 2006 Share Posted January 9, 2006 That is why I was planning on welding some studding/bolt on top of those bolts and then attach the brake pipe bracket to them, saves having to unbolt teh top swivel pin and have oil leaking out everytime you need to remove the caliper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest diesel_jim Posted January 9, 2006 Share Posted January 9, 2006 That is why I was planning on welding some studding/bolt on top of those bolts and then attach the brake pipe bracket to them, saves having to unbolt teh top swivel pin and have oil leaking out everytime you need to remove the caliper. Thats a bloody good idea that is! what i've done in the past also, is the brake-pipe-bracket has 2 bolt holes in it... if tou cut through the bracket and slice off one of the bolt holes (so it's only held on by one bolt) then in the future, you only need to undo one bolt to get the brake pipe off, and no oil leak! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted January 9, 2006 Share Posted January 9, 2006 Why oh why didn't they design them with the flexi-hose going straight into the caliper? The rigid hose just makes it more awkward to remove the caliper generally... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted January 9, 2006 Share Posted January 9, 2006 Why oh why didn't they design them with the flexi-hose going straight into the caliper? The rigid hose just makes it more awkward to remove the caliper generally... Nothing to stop you doing that John, you'd need to use a 90° union at the caliper end though to keep the pipe close in and less likely to snag. I very nearly done this but decided it would make the hoses too suseptible to damage. I have flexi hose straight into the rears though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Renny Posted January 9, 2006 Share Posted January 9, 2006 OhAnd when you undo the top 2 bolts that hold the barke line to claiper.....the swivel will leak I Know this from the old stain on the drive............... Nige I made the same mistake, never did get the stains out of the monoblocks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_a Posted January 9, 2006 Share Posted January 9, 2006 I'd like to add that I can't get the stain out of my trainers since I had my feet under mine when I did my bearings the first time. Got to say I'm with Will though, it is a good chance to check everything out. One thing to think of is that if the seal is leaking oil out it could be leaking carp in, so a chance to clean out the inside of the swivel at the same time might still be worth it. I'd guess this is even more an issue if you use one shot grease rather than EP90. And there does have to be better way for that brake bracket, I can't get a socket in to torque the top pin properly because it is so close to the head Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 9, 2006 Author Share Posted January 9, 2006 Cheers all my front wheel bearings are OK as I overhauled the calipers recently, oil in the swivels, not convinced by the fliud grease, chrome swivels housing are OK, as are the CV's no nasty noises from them plus nice new clean oil will keep them happy. like the stud idea, might have to nick that or modify the brake pipe bracket so I can just slacken the bolts & slide the bracket out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark90 Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 Even just slackening both bolts will allow the swivel to leak as it releases the tension on the top swival pin and there's a lot of weight in the hub hanging off it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diff Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 Cheers all my front wheel bearings are OK as I overhauled the calipers recently, oil in the swivels, not convinced by the fliud grease, chrome swivels housing are OK, as are the CV's no nasty noises from them plus nice new clean oil will keep them happy.like the stud idea, might have to nick that or modify the brake pipe bracket so I can just slacken the bolts & slide the bracket out. If you put a jack or stand under the lower swivel to take the weight of the hub assembly, you should be able to remove the top pin bolts and the brake pipe bracket without any oil being lost(as long as you leave the top swivel pin in), because then the hub assembly and seal cannot drop in relation to the swivel ball. Regards, Diff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 10, 2006 Author Share Posted January 10, 2006 If you put a jack or stand under the lower swivel to take the weight of the hub assembly, you should be able to remove the top pin bolts and the brake pipe bracket without any oil being lost(as long as you leave the top swivel pin in), because then the hub assembly and seal cannot drop in relation to the swivel ball.Regards, Diff Yep, I'll support it, not to worried about the oil leaking out as I intend to drain the swivels prior to swapping the seals Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.