Jump to content

Battery retention ideas


Recommended Posts

Good evening one and all.

Recently, thanks to the marvellous Fridge Freezer, I have had fitted a second battery and split charge thingy. However, I now have a bit of a problem in retaining both batteries. Currently, the existing system - two threaded rods through angled piece of metal - has been bodged to hold one of the batteries in. Originally I was going to get another of the same style for the second battery, but it's going to be a bit of faff if I have to take both batteries out - what with cables and suchlike getting in the way.

In my mind, I can visualise what I want but I'm not sure my description will be clear:

What I'm after for both batteries is some kind of strap arrangement. One strap would be mounted behind the battery in line with the top, and the second in front of the battery by the front edge. The straps would then come together in some kind of buckle arrangement - something that is quick to attach and release. There would be a set of straps for each battery.

Just in case someone was about to ask, both are mounted in the passenger side seat box.

So, can someone decipher my description and offer a solution?

Thanks in advance.

Ryan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds quite a good idea.

Have you thought of a small ratchet strap for each battery?

You could attach an eye bolt to the floor in battery compartment and run the straps over the battery.

My only concern might be that the small amount of acid around might deteriorate the strap.

Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds quite a good idea.

Have you thought of a small ratchet strap for each battery?

You could attach an eye bolt to the floor in battery compartment and run the straps over the battery.

My only concern might be that the small amount of acid around might deteriorate the strap.

Mike

Hi Mike,

I think they're both sealed batteries (I know the new one is) so there shouldn't be acid about (crossed-fingers, touch wood, etc). I had thought about the ratchet strap idea, just don't know if could get small enough ratchet bits. However, I really wanted something that would a 'one-action' deal - one action to lock, one to unlock - rather than the usual ratchet strap deal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest diesel_jim

How often will you really be removing the batteries? that often?

I've got an ex wolf battery tray in my 110, bolts right in, and holds two optima sized batteries.

has 3 upright threaded bars (one either end and one in the middle) and a piece of bar across the top, with 3 wingnuts.

I saw some at Billing last week, for not much money.

Mine:

post-130-1217015356_thumb.jpg

post-130-1217015377_thumb.jpg

And fitted in a wolf (hence the matt green paint):

post-130-1217015411_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How often will you really be removing the batteries? that often?

I hope not, but anything that makes my life easier is always a bonus

I've got an ex wolf battery tray in my 110, bolts right in, and holds two optima sized batteries.

has 3 upright threaded bars (one either end and one in the middle) and a piece of bar across the top, with 3 wingnuts.

The only way that would fit would be to replace the batteries with two Optima-sized ones...the new one is a truck battery and the starter battery is slightly longer than the OE battery. As such, the batteries are mounted in a sort of L arrangement - the truck battery against and parallel with the front of the seat box, and the starter battery against the side of the seat box.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ryan

I use a ratchet strap.

It passes under a battery tray that was fitted under a pair of exide optimas now changed for an Odyssey.

Otherwise as suggested a pair of eye bolts make good lower anchor points to which you can fit a strap or a top bar with two long threaded bolts with a U at the bottom (roofers use them) hooked into the eyes, with wingnuts on the top holding the bar down.

John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I dodn't want anything over the top of the battery covering the access to caps.

Here's how I did it making my own battery box.

Notice the high Numax that doesn't fit into the standard box.

dsc00101xc9.th.jpg

dsc00102cj1.th.jpg

dsc00137ca5.th.jpg

The first two pictures shew the battery box on the bench.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have got some straps with a cam buckle.

Have a look at this site for some ideas.

ace supplies

Mike,

That's probably close to what I want, but there are no photos. I tried going back via the home page but I kept getting a server error.

I made 2 alloy straps covered wiith heatshrink & 4 threaded rods to secure my 2 big odyssesy batts.

Ralph,

Close, but I want to do without the threaded rods.

IMG_0180.JPG

I can't use one bar for both, as the truck battery is quite a bit taller than the starter battery

I dodn't want anything over the top of the battery covering the access to caps.

Here's how I did it making my own battery box.

Notice the high Numax that doesn't fit into the standard box.

dsc00101xc9.th.jpg

Now that's just getting silly :P . Seriously, that's too technical for me. Everything fits in the seat box, it's just the retention that needs sorting.

I'm thinking a combination of Ralph's rubber-coated :ph34r: ally strips, and probably Mike's buckles might fit the bill.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think a "single action" type buckle will work - you really need to make sure the batteries are well secured and the force required to snap a buckle together would be pretty large IMHO to generate enough clamping force on the batteries.

I cannot see why you think you'll be taking the batteries out a lot. I would recommend a robust method that is secure first and "easy access" a distant second.

You could easily adapt Tony's simple and secure method and make up a spacer to sit on top of the smaller battery.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I never said I would be taking the batteries out a lot, just that if I had to, I wanted an easy life.

I can't go for Tony's idea because the truck battery only fits where it is now. If I were to move it to a point where I could get the clamp across the top of both batteries, the terminals and battery top will sit above the line of the seat box cover which then won't fit. The way around this would then be a different battery box á la mmgemini so that the big battery sat lower, but I'm not prepared to start hacking around at metalwork in a big way. The truck battery would probably fit into the trough at the bottom of the battery box, but the starter battery would not get a look in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually, I've just realised the sort of buckle I'm thinking about has been on the Defender all this time - not quite the same design as I have in my head, but close:

The latch that holds the seat box cover in place - it would be mounted on the bottom strap, with a d-ring or something similar on the top strap. Hook one into t'other and the action of closing the latch would tension the straps and then lock into place...wouldn't it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You're talking about 'over-centre latches' - they come in loads of different flavours, including sprung-tension versions, and versions designed to be fixed to the end of steel banding.

Give that man a cigar :D

Cheers Luke.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have been struggling with this having an original lead/acid and an additional Odyssey which are different in every dimension, fitted into a battery box with various different levels in the base. The short term fix is a pair of fabricated buffers to stop fore/aft battery movement and a strap to stop side to side and vertical movement.

The long term fix is a new flat base to the battery box. Before hacking the box about, does anyone know why a 300 TDi battery box does not have a flat base ? Since flat is easier to make, I am concerned that there is some Land Rover design thinking I need to take into account (battery spillage, ventilation etc ?)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have been struggling with this having an original lead/acid and an additional Odyssey which are different in every dimension, fitted into a battery box with various different levels in the base. The short term fix is a pair of fabricated buffers to stop fore/aft battery movement and a strap to stop side to side and vertical movement.

The long term fix is a new flat base to the battery box. Before hacking the box about, does anyone know why a 300 TDi battery box does not have a flat base ? Since flat is easier to make, I am concerned that there is some Land Rover design thinking I need to take into account (battery spillage, ventilation etc ?)

Richard. I have no idea.

The problem of getting a deeper battery box is the chassis. That's why I made the one I did and posted elswhere shewing all dimensions.

mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy