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Which engine do i put in my Series 1 80"


eastwop

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I think that the later engines may be longer?

Many years ago I had brief encounter with an S1 80" with what I was told was a IIa engine (I bought it like that).. But there were 'issues' - the bottom pulley overhung the front axle a bit...

All was well until one day when I failed to observe an overgrown drainage ditch, and the impact of crossing this lifted the axle so much that it smashed the bottom pulley. Moving the engine back was not an option (the rear prop was already terribly short IMHO) so I spaced the front engine mounting up an inch - problem solved!

HTH,

Roger

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The 80 inch (and possibly the 86 with the by-pass oil filter have a strange starter that fits into a sleeve and is secured with a bolt. This whole contraption (besides being impossible to remove) has its drive within its enormous length and just a small cover on the gearbox bellhousing.

The 2 1/4 engine and full flow 2 litres have a starter with the bendix spring and drive extending beyond the body and need a different bellhousing in order to fit.

Engine mountings will not be easy - as of course the 2 litre has those ridiculously complicated composite jobs sitting on flat mounts whereas the 2 1/4 has angels mounts sitting on modern type mounts.

Then of course there's the exhaust . . .

The axle/engine conflict was solved by the 88 inch - in which the front axle is moved forward.

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The 80 inch (and possibly the 86 with the by-pass oil filter have a strange starter that fits into a sleeve and is secured with a bolt. This whole contraption (besides being impossible to remove) has its drive within its enormous length and just a small cover on the gearbox bellhousing.

The 2 1/4 engine and full flow 2 litres have a starter with the bendix spring and drive extending beyond the body and need a different bellhousing in order to fit.

Engine mountings will not be easy - as of course the 2 litre has those ridiculously complicated composite jobs sitting on flat mounts whereas the 2 1/4 has angels mounts sitting on modern type mounts.

Then of course there's the exhaust . . .

The axle/engine conflict was solved by the 88 inch - in which the front axle is moved forward.

Thanks to every one who replyed to my question,

Would it easier to tranplant a Series 3 engine and gear box/tranfer box complete. , any help grateful

Paul

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I have a 80" with a 2.25 and series 2 gearbox - it work's really nicely. there is a slight conflict between the axle and pulley but so long as the bumpstops are there it shouldn't hit.

Personally if you're not bothered by originality that's the way I'd go, maybe keep the 2L in case you ever want to return to original.

Better to keep it on the road than be too anal about things imho ;)

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I have a 80" with a 2.25 and series 2 gearbox - it work's really nicely. there is a slight conflict between the axle and pulley but so long as the bumpstops are there it shouldn't hit.

Personally if you're not bothered by originality that's the way I'd go, maybe keep the 2L in case you ever want to return to original.

Better to keep it on the road than be too anal about things imho ;)

Is there any problems with the prop shafts fitting, do i keep the 80" props or use series 2/3 ones. do i use the 80 tranfer box as well or swap the whole lot over

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I didn't swap the engine into mine so no technical comments on the process I'm afraid.

I think it's a complete series 2 gearbox/transfer box combination.

The rear prop is 40cm compressed and 45cm extended, I believe this is the original 80 rear prop?.

Looking at this thread the front should be the same I think.

If it would be helpful I can get some photos (when it stops raining!)

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I didn't swap the engine into mine so no technical comments on the process I'm afraid.

I think it's a complete series 2 gearbox/transfer box combination.

The rear prop is 40cm compressed and 45cm extended, I believe this is the original 80 rear prop?.

Looking at this thread the front should be the same I think.

If it would be helpful I can get some photos (when it stops raining!)

Thanks for the reply, any info is very helpful, also photo are a great help.

many thanks

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If you put a silly engine in you'll only end up knackering the box or wanting to swap to axles with better brakes, it's a slippery slope. If it's a tidy S1 I'd agree you should just sell it to someone who cares and buy something less historic to hack about, otherwise by the time you've finished you'll just have a S3 or 90 with a S1 registration plate and have chopped up a perfectly good little truck, and spent a lot more time & money than just buying what you want in the first place.

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Would you have to modify the engine mounts before putting in a different series or prima engine ?

If you have to modify the chassis surely you would fall foul of the new DVLA regulations and mean having to go through SVA approval ? (and possible losing the series one identity). Assuming you want to drive it on the road.

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i think changing engine mounts to fit a different landrover engine wouldnt fall foul of the sva. as you arent actually altering the basic structure of the chassis - just welding on additional tabs to fit an alternative lr derived drivetrain.

personally i'd stick in the whole engine/tranny from a series 2 and put your original dead engine in the garage along with the rest of the tranny (suitably protected for storage) jsut in case you ever get the urge to rebuild it back to original or sell the whole vehicle on.

as for front diff clearance on the bottom pully - take the front springs off and rest the bumpstops on the axle. Then dry fit the engine for measuring up where the engine mounts need to go. That way you can get them tacked in place knowing 100% nothing will foul.

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I personally would cast about for another Series One engine, there are quite a lot about, I have two lying in my shed for example one's a diesel. Preserving the originality of an 80 inch would be good, I went the Prima route with my 86 inch which was an ex trialler so quite unoriginal to start with, but it was a lot of work as well as costly with the adaptor plate etc.

The Series 2 route would be the easiest as you can easily adapt the clutch etc, but the engine is longer as every one is pointing out.

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