ebdesignDEFENDER Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 I have read all the teh. arhive about changing the ball join of drop arm.I managed to change it but I couldnt fit the small seal ring,also I coulndt find where I have to fit the metal ring (wich is shown on photo) Now I don/t know if this seal is so important,because if it is so--I have to rebuild it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oggie27_3 Posted March 13, 2009 Share Posted March 13, 2009 the metal ring you have circled is what the rubber boot sits over. some of them can be removed and a new one fitted. HTH. jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebdesignDEFENDER Posted March 13, 2009 Author Share Posted March 13, 2009 But,my rubber boot sits very good without this ring... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 14, 2009 Share Posted March 14, 2009 In that case don't use it - I rarely do. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibex94 Posted March 14, 2009 Share Posted March 14, 2009 Fitted a grease nipple to the base plate when I did mine, means you can properly lube the joint after fitting and through life. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted March 14, 2009 Share Posted March 14, 2009 I like that idea .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ebdesignDEFENDER Posted March 14, 2009 Author Share Posted March 14, 2009 Yes good ideia! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Badger Posted March 14, 2009 Share Posted March 14, 2009 Another idea would be to fit a disco 1 drop arm, as this uses a ball joint like the ones found on you track rod, this mean it's a hell of a lot easier to change the joint if it breaks and you can use the same joints all round. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicTheOrange90 Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 The ball joint gaiter on my 110 TD5 has come adrift, the drop arm should have had a lip all the way round to keep the circlip/ring in place but this has chipped away and there is nothing to keep the ring in place. Does the DROP ARM BALL JOINT KIT, STC3295, Land Rover Defender, Discovery, get around this ? I dont want to have to remove the whole drop arm and replace just to get this fixed.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 STC 3295 now superseded by this kit just remove the drag link to swap the rubber boot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 The ball joint gaiter on my 110 TD5 has come adrift, the drop arm should have had a lip all the way round to keep the circlip/ring in place but this has chipped away and there is nothing to keep the ring in place.Does the DROP ARM BALL JOINT KIT, STC3295, Land Rover Defender, Discovery, get around this ? I dont want to have to remove the whole drop arm and replace just to get this fixed.... Had exactly this problem 2 weeks ago. The little steel ring is useless. It was too big to go inside, and too small to go outside. What value does it add? Tried to cut it and enlarge it slightly, thinking it might stick in place with a teen weeny blob of weld right at the front, or I might even epoxy it there, but no, it wouldn't expand or contract easily . The flange on the steering box side had lost its lip, and the rest isn't much better, and had a razor edge - ideal for a boot to sit on. I managaed to dress it into more of a bell shape with a small ball pein hammer, and put the rubber boot on. 2 days later the steel springy thing had climbed up the boot, and the boot had let go. I have now used a small tie wrap which clamps the boot nicely under the remaining lip and so far has held the boot in place. (Don't forget the draglink squashes the boot down, so it's not being pulled off). The spring has retired hurt. If your flange has gone completely( I had a bit of vertical flange left round the back) I'd say it was time for either a new drop arm, or something specific being turned to fit. <rant>Considering how long this design must have been used it's utter rubbish. If you do try to get the drop arm off, be prepared for a mighty fight. I bent the handle on a 10 ton hydraulic puller trying to get mine off. I tried heat, cold, bad language, turning my back on it and even asking it nicely. Finally with the puller on so tight I had to hold the arms on with a G cramp, I belted the ball joint end and it came loose. The Tech Archive piece on it says 10 minutes (but they aren't Earth minutes) to get it off. Why oh why not use a trackrod end? They even come in LH thread</rant> Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicTheOrange90 Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 STC 3295 now superseded by this kitjust remove the drag link to swap the rubber boot. Ralph, thanks for this, I assume that the kit works on a drop arm with a missing bit on the flange that used to hold the ring that used to hold the rubber boot in place ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 Most likely it's the exact same kit with just a part number update for the latest models. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicTheOrange90 Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 Have ordered one and a few other bits from Britcar, not dealt with them before, but they take PayPal so saves me having to use cards etc. As soon as it arrives and I get a mo, Ill have a lookey see at replacing the end in situ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 Do yourself a great favour and convert it over to the disco 1 solid droparm-as it takes me 10 minutes instead of a couple of hours to change the track rod end, I have cut a few off and replaced the drop arm a while ago trying to do that bloody ball joint as i got frustrated with changing it every few months or so, So much nicer and easier to do now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
66gaza Posted June 10, 2009 Share Posted June 10, 2009 X3 on the Disco drop arm. Gaza Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enduro1972uk Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 I have got the kit as pitured at the top of this page and have no idea as to how it is assembled. Does anybody have an exploded diagram or a step by step on how to assemble it please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 2 excellent threads in Tech archive depending on whether you want to pull the arm off or not. Personally I'd go for not if poss. Just search for 'drop arm' in the advanced search and limit hits to Tech Archive. Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Warman Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 May I ask for the part number for the disco drop arm? I need to fix mine as well Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marco Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 STC 3295 now superseded by this kit just remove the drag link to swap the rubber boot. FYI I did order that kit some weeks back but it did not match their picture.... no LR packaging at all. So very expensive OEM as other suppliers supply same OEM at a much cheaper rate. Cheers Marco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enduro1972uk Posted September 14, 2010 Share Posted September 14, 2010 All done and working, many thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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