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Weld on diff pans


bishbosh

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I have decided that I need to replace my front diff pan as, although it doesn't leak following its recent reshaping :ph34r:, I think it will do in the very near future so fitting any sort of guard is a waste of time.

So, a heavy duty replacement pan is needed to remove the need for a guard.

I have seen Steve Parker's, but that doesn't look very HD to me (1.6mm :blink: and a bit of crown wheel protection) and Devon 4x4 - very bling but way to spendy.

So, can anyone point me in the direction of some decent options?

Thanks!

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Hi BishBosh, I did the same as you and was suprised at how thin the standard pan actually was.

I needed a quick fix, so just chopped t'arse end of a gas cylinder.

Nice and strong, cheap (free), and a pretty good fit.

Bit of a write up here: http://www.landroveraddict.com/smf/index.php?topic=376158.0

Some have suggested you don't need to take the diff out to weld the new one on, but I'd be wary.

It'll only take one small blob of spatter in your diff to cause problems. For what it takes it's a much safer job taking it out.

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6mm Inox pipe end, 230mm od, just chisel your old cover off with a sharp chisel, or air chisel, takes about 5 minutes by hand or 1 with air!

Clean up and prep for weld, fit a plug for the filler. weld all. Total of about 2 hours work.

DiffpanFront.jpg

DiffpanRear2.jpg

Lara

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No time to tart it all up and after all no point it'll soon get raked off :)

I did think some one would mention my painting skills :)

I painted the welding then the rest looked carp so I painted the tubes the axle stands stopped me getting any further and then interest stopped me going back to it.

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Thanks Tony, if I hadn't made a mess of the existing pan I would have had a guard form Gwyn as it is a nice easy fix, but my pan is so deformed that it is going to have to come off.:(

I notice Jase has a bling new diff pan since the de-cider. Wonder what he's going to do with that.....:unsure:

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  • 4 months later...

those weld on guards do look quite good but what happens if you blow parts of diff through the original case underneath?

you'll then have to cut off the welded on guard and weld on a new pan or replace the case.

seems like a lot of work for not a lot of gain over a decent unboltable diff guard.

also, are you not creating a mud trap if you dont plate in the top of the guard to diff pan gap?

just my few thoughts :P

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The decent bolt on you talk of

would these be QT type?

as I have had 3 they are either on others cars after straightening or in the scrap yard as they all bent to buggery.

there are large cut outs for washing any crud that gets caught up.

as for blowing the diff out of the original case, then my worries will be a little more than cutting off a diff guard with an angle grinder.

Gwyn Lewis variety is Ideal and strong as hell.

post-5-126633432947_thumb.jpg

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http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=9334865&l=29f9f8c41d&id=544610503 has a pic of mine sewercapped. I really believe it is the best way to do it, although I totally stripped the old sheet metal from the banjo and then had to make a small spacer ring to weld in first, but now there is no gap at all, solid 1/4" or thicker all the way round.
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ive got a QT style one and not put a bend in it yet (a few deep scratches but nothing to distort it) although i dont tend to go crashing into rocks that often, tend to find it bends handbrake back plate once the diff's bounced over the rock or whatever ive crashed into.

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