Noise Insulation For Doors???

[JST]

i have just fitted a set of split doors (eg sliding removable windows on the top) and was thinking of putting some trim (chq plate) on the inside to make it double skin etc

any suggestions as to what would make a good insulation material to sandwhich between the chq and the door bottom? it will be to keep warmth in and reduce nosie, or is it not worht the effort?

it also needs to be waterprrof, non absorbant.

[chadler]

I've got exactly the same arrangement of door, except i got some series door trims from La Salle interior trims, which fit fine except that you have to make a hole for the window lock. In between the two i've sandwiched and taped insulating foam. Much more homely!

It's closed-cell foam (incidently it came in large sheets as packaging from Craddocks!) so it doens't absorb water

[Ben Reedy]

Our MOD split doors leak water around the lock aperture meaning that we had to cut back the insulating mat we had fitted to avoid it being permanently soaked. I for one would never cover the insides with anything that prevents the insulation from drying out, we just live with the matting.

Camping mat would be better than the fibre felt we have.

While you're in fettling mode, get the drill out and make a 5mm hole just above and behind the top rear corner of the door hinge, into the bottom of the lower "sill" of the window, just above the floor of the sill where it sits on a layer of mastic. This will allow any water that gets into the sill section to drain outwards. You'll be amazed how much collects in there after you have washed the car - if you ever wash it, that is! It will trickle out when you open the door and the sill takes up a slope towards the hinges.

[Chris Davies]

I've done exactly that on my series doors, made door cards out of checker plate and sandwiched a polystyrene sheet between it and the door

[JST]

so i had better get on an order something fro Craddocks and ask them to pack it in polystyrene foam i guess.

polystyrene looks the way fwd then.

cheers for the tip ref the windows sills and drainage, mine have already got the said hole!!! they camel like that.

[SiWhite]

I've got a big roll of closed cell foam I bought for just that purpose.

It's about 10mm thick and in black.

Are you coming to Tony's? I could snip out a couple of squares and throw them in the back if you want.

Glue's a bit old and not up to all that much, but it'll do I'm sure.

Let me know the size of the door and I'll bring some along.

[Neil Marshall]

The biggest potential noise will come from the metal panel resonating [thrumming] - what you need is a self adhesive bitumastic anti resonance pad [approx A4 size] in the middle of the panel. [Halfords used to sell them].

Heat insulation can be anything, but bear in mind it will trap moisture. From memory the only insulation on a production Defender is the door card. You could try glueing polypropelene carpet tiles to the panel. Glue [hot glue gun] plastic sheet to the interior of the door.

Neil

[JST]

simon,

yep will be going to Tonys, if you could bring some along that would be great. 800 by 400mm would be ideal 2 of.

i will go for that and some panels, will have to see what halfords have around.

many thanks

[LR90]

James,

have you retained the anti burst locks? Les (I think) did a good write up on the dead forum but I'd be interrested to know what your done and where your doors came from given I'd like to do something similar

[JST]

no, i have replaced the door latches with the older syle for simplicity and ease of fitting. i also wanted to sell the old doors complete, plus without fabricating one there isin't a door handle (lift up type) on the back of my old handles so i would of had to have made something up.

door tops from Ace Rocky mountain - new, double sliding windows and bloody expensive IMHO

door bottoms came from RIPLEY off this and the last forum. 2nd hand excellent condition bar the DPM.

i purchased the door latch, lock barrel and handles separatley for about £20 ea i think then fitted the barrels to the door handles myself. Door pillar (B pillar) needed no extra drilling the mouting holes although different to the anti burst ones were there. (common top hole)

i can take some specific pics if your interested. let me know

[Mehetabel]

For the front doors I got LaSalle style cards [particle/ peg board covered in vinyl ? sp] and for the rear [middle] doors I made my own out of that same style particle board [composite sawdust board ~1/16" thick].

For insulation on all five doors I found sheet insulation board [~1 -1.5" thick] and the local hardware superstore.

It has worked like a charm for noise and a little heat insulation

cheers

John

[LR90]

JST, yes some pics would be good. I like your idea. I think I was too hung up about keeping the anti burst locks but like you say going to an older style lock is a lot more pragmatic.

[Mark90]

You can use anti-burst locks with split/series doors. There are a couple of different types, the late SIII type like rear doors locks (actually same part is the drivers side one) or the military type with the little 'flap' locks as fitted to military 90/110's. I'm fitting the series/rear door type to mine. If buying new doors get the ones with the hole for the lock, often described as stage 1 / military doors.

[JST]

mine had the hole for the lock but it didnt line up with where the lock was.

i will post some pics in abit

[dasterdly]

hello,

i have the military ( or early 90/110 ) alloy door tops fitted to standard s3 door bottoms. i painted everything with zinc primer, then applyed waxoil to all the interior surfaces, fitted polystyrene to the inside of the door bottom, then bought a sheet of 8x4 3mm ally and cut out the panels to fit, drilled and riveted them on. i have enough ally left to cover the inside of the rear door as well.

i aquired some ally door handles of a series vehicle, and turned them upside down, sat in the drivers/passengers seat and fitted them accordingly, and after covering 4000 miles across spain, the drivers side is positioned perfect as an arm rest !

the only thing i intend to fit on the doors themselves is probaly a small elasticated map pocket.

i didnt bother with the anti burst locks and strikers etc, i found the early slam type less obtrusive.

the guy i got my alloy door tops off, had/has a set on an early 90/110, the door bottoms are knacked but the tops look fine. if anybody is looking for some alloy door tops ( twin sliding windows) then give "teasdale landrovers" a ring and ask for steven or david young.

teasdales telephone number is : 01833660410

teasdale bought the new parts dept, but stephen and david still run the secondhand stuff.

cheers...

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

I liked the Idea that Graham (Riply1) said he had done...

Cover door insides and trim insides with greased Cling film, then fitt trim, mask up edsges and use expanding foam to fill cavity, not only soundproofed but he reckions it also strengthend it

Good idea, on the list sometime !

Nige

PS where has Ripley1 go to ??

[JST]

pics of current setup,

notice door lock hole and actual lock barrel position:

and inside:

[Sharky]

Might be a good idea to reduce the size of the image before posting

[Mark90]

notice door lock hole and actual lock barrel position:

That is because your doors are designed for the anti-burst locks. I have the oposite problem and am having to drill holes in the doors for the lock barrels

[JST]

i have the anti birst locks as well, they just doent have inside handles without fiddling around with the existing front unlock system - hence why i went for the old type locks - much simpler. (and cheaper)

someone was asking about the price of doors, the answer is i dont know but APB Trading Ltd on 01299 250174 had new tops and bottoms at the LRO show email apb@dircon.co.uk

i have never used the above and dont know prices, but said i would enquire for a few people so there you go.

[Mark90]

You can get anti burst door lock with a handle on the inside, just like the series ones. Take a look at a rear door handle/lock, that's the same part as the drivers side one. About £25 each new. If yours don't have handles on the inside I'd suggest they are from lift up handles wind up window doors rather than the series / military doors.

[Mark90]

This is my passenger side one.....

These are a straight fit on your doors with no fiddling around as the doors are designed for these locks or the military type of anti burst lock.

A worth while upgrage from the series door catches IMHO.

[JST]

Mark,

dont suppose you have the part numbers for those do you?

i have the catches already.

[Mark90]

I ordered the following from Craddocks...........

395038 ANTI BURST LOCK OPTION 1978-84 LH £ 24.00

FQJ103840 ANTI BURST LOCK OPTION 1978-84 RH & REAR £ 22.00

395056 3 BARRELS & KEY SET FOR ANTI BURST DOOR £ 7.42

[dasterdly]

hello,

i just looked at the photo's.. then the post header.."ex mod split doors"

just a note, the door tops are series as opposed to military ones, the only reason i mention this is that i posted the military part numbers on the previous lre forum for the military door tops, which are differant to the series ones. if anybody wrote these down, they may differ from the serie's part numbers, i know the main seal between the door top and door bottom is differant, but thats not to say the parts cannot be used with either mil or series.

cheers...