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Capillary Gauges


pugwash

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Anyone know the cheapest and best value place to get capillary guages.

don't want anything fancy- just normal black with a white dial and numbers which works off capillary action as much as possible.

Thanks

Jim

to measure what?

there are 3: that I've seen and got; water temp, oil temp and oil pressure. MGB had oil P and water temp combined.

Vehicle witing products do TIM guages (like mne but for the oil temp - hard to find that one) or ebay for s/h.

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Looking for most of a set inc:

Oil Temp

Oil Press

Water Temp

Vacuum

Auto Box temp

then need some leccy ones:

Voltmeter (or maybe an ammeter with a shunt)

any others i think of

just don't want to spend £50 a gauges

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TIM do vacuum guage as well.; this is what they look like,

DSC01324.jpg

I have 2 TIM ameter guages (don;t ask why - with not palns to fit), make me an offer I can't refuse. :blink:

What I like about the capillary guages is that the pointer pivots around the centre; the electrical ones have the centre at the bottom. There is a kit car supplier that does a set of electrical guages (prefer these to caplillary aqs easy to move around - you disconnect 2 wires) 3, of them for about £ 40. Can send you details if you want.

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have you had any problems with TIM gauges?

i have just wound a website www.proven-products.co.uk that list most of these gauges at a great price- seem a bit too cheap.

What range are the ammeters? do they come with a shunt?

sticking with capillary as much as possible as i want to reduce the electronics- not increase them!

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have you had any problems with TIM gauges?

i have just wound a website www.proven-products.co.uk that list most of these gauges at a great price- seem a bit too cheap.

What range are the ammeters? do they come with a shunt?

sticking with capillary as much as possible as i want to reduce the electronics- not increase them!

they work. I haven't driven that much so cannot comment, the water one did a strange thing whereby the pointer would move quicker than it should and a long way past 100 C then suddenly flip back - my explantion, and it may be wrong is there is was like a bubble expanding pushing the fluid inside whcih moves the pointer then suddenly bursting so the pointer moved back. the rest have been fine.

shunt? hmmm, dunno, need to look inside the box. from memory 30-0-30 A.

If I could find nice central pointer electrical ones, then I would fit those; it is only after all 2 extra wires which you can cut to length, not so with the cappiliary temp guages.

the temp. capilliary ones are good in that they indicate when not powered.

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Hmmmmmmmmmmmm……. TIM gauges ………… I am on my third capillary water temp gauge ………… they seem to last just under 12 months and then either read very high :angry: …….. or not read at all ………… but they always replace under warranty with no quibbles. :lol:

Oil pressure gauge has been fine.

I tried a couple of real cheapies but found the accuracy to be somewhat lacking. :rolleyes:

All my replacements will now be either VDO or Autometer ………… both of which I have used extensively in the past with no problems………….. these will come from Merlin motorsport, whom I have a great deal of time for.

Ian

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I've got a VDO rev-counter (spot on), a LandRover fuel gauge (your guess is as good as mine), a Racetech water temp gauge (had some problems but that could be wiring) and a TIM turbo pressure gauge (cheap and cheerful but sticks now and then and won't return to zero).

I wouldn't buy TIM again, but Racetech definately get my vote.

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the reason i was going capillary was that i don't want many electrics.

shoudl i stop worry about this though? if i end up going in up to my windscreen then i don't really want everything to stop working.

anythoughts anyone?

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if i end up going in up to my windscreen then i don't really want everything to stop working.

It tends to be the mechanism that dies rather than the electrics - in my experience!

After a dunk in muddy water - none of my gauges worked. Managed to make the speedo work again by washing, but replaced the others.

At least an electric one can just be un plugged and a new one plugged in without having to thread a load of capillary tube.

Si

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the reason i was going capillary was that i don't want many electrics.

shoudl i stop worry about this though? if i end up going in up to my windscreen then i don't really want everything to stop working.

anythoughts anyone?

Stop worrying about the gauges and start worrying about that V8 if you are going that deep James.

Look into my eyes, look into my eyes, not around the eyes, into the eyes...when you wake up, you'll no longer want to fit a V8, you will want to fit a TDI...one, two, three, you're back in the room!

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