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Front diff replacement


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Hey guys find out the loud whining noise where it's coming from. Need to replace my front diff. So I'm going to get at it next week. Just wondering the easiest way to do it. I've replace the half shaft and cv before and I know both shaft should be move inorder to get the diff out. Is there a different way of doing it rather than removing the brake disc etc? Thanks for your help

Thierry

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Break callipers have to be removed but I would take the hub off in one lump.. 6 or 7 bolts hold’s the hub to the axle remove these and once the track rods have been disconnected you can take the swivel/disk/hub and half shaft of in one lump.

Do that on both sides, remove the propshaft and bobs your uncle, fanny’s your aunt etc etc.

I’m sure your get other advice but that’s the way I would attack the problem.

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What he said^^^^^^ undo the 7 bolts on each side that hold the swivel ball on whip the prop off and it will come out. No need to undo the callipers there is enough room to just pull the shaft out far enough to let the diff out but make sure you support the swivel assembly as they are F heavy!

Dave.

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so what i understand is to remove the wheels remove these 12 point bolt of the swivel get out a few inhes and if i put the wheels back on or support the whole assembly with an axle stand i should have enough room to remove the diff? let me know if thats wrong or not please.

thanks

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Hey guys find out the loud whining noise where it's coming from. Need to replace my front diff. So I'm going to get at it next week. Just wondering the easiest way to do it. I've replace the half shaft and cv before and I know both shaft should be move inorder to get the diff out. Is there a different way of doing it rather than removing the brake disc etc? Thanks for your help

Thierry

Not sure from you post, but don't even think of "DIY" Diff rebuild

Nige

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so what i understand is to remove the wheels remove these 12 point bolt of the swivel get out a few inhes and if i put the wheels back on or support the whole assembly with an axle stand i should have enough room to remove the diff? let me know if thats wrong or not please.

thanks

Yep that's basically it. You will feel the splines disengage from the diff. Replace it with a good 2nd hand one and your away.

Dave.

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cool sound pretty like a bolt job i've got a really good second hand one just going to take the old one out and put the other one. aand i've got some good pieces of timber around the yard so i'll used that to rest both disc on. thanks again for the advice guys it make lifes much easier.

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When I swapped my 110's front diff, after draing the oil, I unshipped the calipers & tied them clear, unshipped the entire hub/swivel/shaft from the axle case & removed from the axle,stood them hub end down inside the laid down wheels, prop off of diff & moved clear, then diff out & it's heavy.

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FYI

I have once changed a diff by my self while laying underneath the vehicle. It turned out to be almost impossible to lift the unit into the axle as it's just to heavy. So either jack it up a bit higher (using good axle stands) to get more clearance or get someone to help you. Best would be a pit or professional bridge so you can stand + have good access. I did slide out the complete hubs and axle shafts (by undoing the swivel to axle bolts) just enough to free the diff.

Cheers

Marco

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If you go the remove the Swivel housing route (7 bolts), while you have the steering ball removed - while its stored, if its for any length of time try support the half shafts horizontally coming out the unit. There are a few seals that locate to the shaft and you dont want to damage/overlise them or you'll start loosing diff oil into your CV joint area. The long shaft once removed is quite heavy and can put a fair amount of crush force on the relativly feeble seals.

post-20087-001323700 1282380088_thumb.jpg

Note: Make sure you use the same bolts or the correct bolts, the ones that hold the swivel balls on are/should be 10.9 grade high tensile.

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i know its pretty heavy but i'll have to manage with it. i might use a jack or similar to get it off the groud and close as possible to the axle. you did'nt remove the caliper just undo the swivel bolt did you?

Yep I left the caliper in place, just slide the shafts out of the diff, guess 2 inches / 5 cm each side will clear the diff. Like the other post, use quality bolts and or (preferable) replace with new ones with blue loctite.

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Lifting the diff in from underneath can be done. I laid under the axle, with the diff on top of me, and a padded cusion between me and it. Then I just pushed it up and on to the axle casing.

Hard work, but doable :)

Yep I did it that way, it might help if you've got "short arms", mine are relatively long!

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Hi guys I've received my front second hand diff today from paddock. There's something on it that I don't think it's on mine! It's just a circular piece of metal about 1 inch thick and 12or15cm in diameter and bolted on a support near the flange. There's a metalic cable attach to it as well. It can be remove easily by undoing the bolt but just wondering what's the purpose of it?

Thanks

thierry

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I know most folk on here seem to have suggested undoing the swivel itself, but having stripped an axle recently, i'd remove the hub, and take the stub axle off instead. Then just pull the CV/Shaft out.

For starters the bolts are much easier to get into, and you can use your nice large breaker bar to undo and torque wrench to do them back up, rather than having to squeeze a ring spanner down a tiny gap and burst blood vessels trying to undo the swivel bolts. It also gives you an opportunity to inspect/regrease the bearings and CV joints etc while its apart.

Additionally, it breaks down into smaller lighter pieces that are easier to handle, than trying to heave the entire assembly in and out in one go.

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After stripping the axle the first way, then of course re-building it up piece by piece if I had to get access to the diff or half shafts again I would do as Aragorn suggests, you do have to undo a few more bolts and can be a bit greesey, but my preference would be to leave the swivel ball on the axle case.

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When I did my front axle. I was changing the Diff and the swivel balls. If I was changing the diff again, I would strip bit by bit. The Swivel bolts are a real pain.

I did actually start my job by taking the swivels off as one lump... but then needed to strip further. It was enough of a pain to get a bolt back in to hold them while I stripped them down. <_<

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Yeah I think that's the best way to do for me I'm sure that doing the swivel bolt way is good as well but my truck is old and my be a pain to undo the bolt. I know the caliper bolt are a pain as well bug I've tackle them a coupleof month ago and did the cv's and shaft so I should be ok and more comfortable doing it bits by bits it might take a bit longer

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