Cat_J Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 Need a bit of advice for replacing my brake pipes. New chassis will be going on next week. I know I need a brake pipe flaring tool but is there much difference in quality between the different brands and also is there a technique to doing it. I've got a lot of time to play about with it and can still look at the old chassis for reference. Also can someone tell me which pipes go in where into the servo (diagram of some sort maybe) as we kinda forgot to detach the g-valve (I think that's what its called) from the bulkhead and ripped all the pipe up when we lifted it. I like breaking stuff. Means I have to learn how to fix it. Cheers Jethro Oh yeah and what size pipe do I need. Is it 3/16"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat_J Posted October 1, 2010 Author Share Posted October 1, 2010 Ive just found this using google. Sorry for the extra thread. I'll ask any questions after reading it. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=10033 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 from Defender workshop manual, refer to the upper left diagram for your 90. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 I got a draper flaring kit and its ace!!! now flaring takes a bit o getting used to but its tiddle easy when you get it... Think I found it on fleebay for a song! I took me ages becasue I didn't quite read the instructions properly ... make sure you put a blob of greese/lub on the mandrel before you slide it into the end of the pipe - lub is the key to a good flare! very satisfying! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted October 1, 2010 Share Posted October 1, 2010 The pipes from landrover arent particularly expensive. I priced up the long front to rear pipe the other day and its 12 quid... For that money theres no point messing about with flaring tools etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco_Mikey Posted October 2, 2010 Share Posted October 2, 2010 Depends how long you will keep it for. Steel pipes from LR will still rust, whereas a copper pipe will last the life of the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidW Posted October 3, 2010 Share Posted October 3, 2010 If you use the kit to form ends on copper pipe use a bit of brake fluid rather than grease or oil to lubricate the mandrel. I have one of the cheap kits and it works reasonably well with practice although I think the better ones work every time all the time. You're welcome to have a go with mine if you want? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidW Posted October 3, 2010 Share Posted October 3, 2010 Reading this again, if the ready made pipes are that cheap they seem worthwhile as the coil of copper you need isn't that cheap to buy. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 3, 2010 Share Posted October 3, 2010 Mine paid for itself the first time I broke a brake pipe while working on the axles, meant I didn't have to have the vehicle off the road for a day or two waiting for parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Briarston Posted October 3, 2010 Share Posted October 3, 2010 Need a bit of advice for replacing my brake pipes. New chassis will be going on next week. I know I need a brake pipe flaring tool but is there much difference in quality between the different brands and also is there a technique to doing it. I've got a lot of time to play about with it and can still look at the old chassis for reference. Also can someone tell me which pipes go in where into the servo (diagram of some sort maybe) as we kinda forgot to detach the g-valve (I think that's what its called) from the bulkhead and ripped all the pipe up when we lifted it. I like breaking stuff. Means I have to learn how to fix it. Cheers Jethro Oh yeah and what size pipe do I need. Is it 3/16"? My local motor factors make up brake pipes, just measure the length(s) and specify what unions are required, or take in the old ones as a pattern. They can often do this while I wait, or at least the same day, using copper pipe. Pretty cheap as well. Don't you have such a place in your area? Nothing wrong with buying your own kit, of course, depends how often you feel you may need it. You also need a selection of unions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted October 3, 2010 Share Posted October 3, 2010 My local motor factors make up brake pipes, just measure the length(s) and specify what unions are required, or take in the old ones as a pattern. They can often do this while I wait, or at least the same day, using copper pipe. Pretty cheap as well. Don't you have such a place in your area? Nothing wrong with buying your own kit, of course, depends how often you feel you may need it. You also need a selection of unions. Just had to rip loads of copper pipe with zinc plated steel unions off my 90 that some muppet had fitted. The well known galvanic action had seized the ends on to the pipe, and the copper had sort of sagged between clips. The pipe itself was fine. So when I came to replace the hoses, I just ended up twisting the ends off. Replaced with kunifer pipe with brass ends - with a bit of luck that will not be so bad to undo in the future. Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cat_J Posted October 12, 2010 Author Share Posted October 12, 2010 from Defender workshop manual, refer to the upper left diagram for your 90. Cheers ralph. Very handy. I got a draper flaring kit and its ace!!! now flaring takes a bit o getting used to but its tiddle easy when you get it... Think I found it on fleebay for a song! I took me ages becasue I didn't quite read the instructions properly ... make sure you put a blob of greese/lub on the mandrel before you slide it into the end of the pipe - lub is the key to a good flare! very satisfying! I think I was looking at the same things. Did it come in all different parts, there seem to be some grips like ones too The pipes from landrover arent particularly expensive. I priced up the long front to rear pipe the other day and its 12 quid... For that money theres no point messing about with flaring tools etc. Depends how long you will keep it for. Steel pipes from LR will still rust, whereas a copper pipe will last the life of the car I think if its steel pipe coming from LR then I'd rather make up some copper ones. Unless I just waxoyled over them afterwards. If you use the kit to form ends on copper pipe use a bit of brake fluid rather than grease or oil to lubricate the mandrel. I have one of the cheap kits and it works reasonably well with practice although I think the better ones work every time all the time. You're welcome to have a go with mine if you want? Cheers David I may have to take you up on that if I ever get a spare day My local motor factors make up brake pipes, just measure the length(s) and specify what unions are required, or take in the old ones as a pattern. They can often do this while I wait, or at least the same day, using copper pipe. Pretty cheap as well. Don't you have such a place in your area? Nothing wrong with buying your own kit, of course, depends how often you feel you may need it. You also need a selection of unions. I shall ask, there's a couple local here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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