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Warn 8274 brake vibration


eddie c
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Hello, I have just fitted a Warn 8274 to my 4x4, on first tests it worked great apart from powering out under load. I lowered my self down but as I take my finger off the trigger the brake seams to vibrate just before it stops. The brake works ok and holds the vehicle on an incline.

Any ideas?

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Hello, I have just fitted a Warn 8274 to my 4x4, on first tests it worked great apart from powering out under load. I lowered my self down but as I take my finger off the trigger the brake seams to vibrate just before it stops. The brake works ok and holds the vehicle on an incline.

Any ideas?

mmm mine used to do that. Made people look but did it for years. but never failed me

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I've found mine does the same BUT it could do with a brake rebuild. One upgrade that's worth making is buying a set of Gywn Lewis / Gigglepin brake pads. They're a very worth while upgrade.

When you do rebuild the brake, make sure the circlip goes back on the right way on the mainshaft. They tend to come off if not put on coorrectly :o

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http://www.gwynlewis4x4.co.uk

Best ringing and speaking to Gwyn, very nice helpful chap I have found. The 8274 brake pads aren't listed on the website. They are wider than standard and different material I belive. Will take pics of mine tomorrow evening if someone doesn't come up with any in the mean time.

Edit:

OK I lied. The website has been updated recently and now has this pic....

Hddiscwinch.jpg

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Gwyn also recommends greasing his pads to prevent the judder, apparently it still holds ok :unsure: I shall be giving it a go when I rebuild mine.

There has been some debate on the Grease/oil on brake pads issue.

I have experimented with both over the last 3 awdc challenge events.

As far as the brake efficiency is concerned I have tried both dry on rear, greased on front and I have not noticed any difference.

Being able to put grease on certainly helps to retain the roller bearings during re assembly.

Many industrial vehicle brakes run continuously immersed in oil.

The only caution from personal experiance is that if you get too enthusiastic with the grease, when you lower your vehicle out under load over a long distance >75feet the brakes naturaly get very hot the grease turns to oil and if you stand next to your winch brake whilst spooling the cable back on the hot oil that kan flick up at you can burn!

If I have cause to dismantle the rear winch I shall use Grease like I have with the front but not get carried away.

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I have recently fitted an 8274, rebuilt by myself to my truck. It does judder when lowering out, even with Gwyns HD brake pads with grease on. Apparently this is fairly normal, and Gwyn said that some people spray WD40 or similar into the brake before competing to try to help this.

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Which parts and how much do you grease when rebuilding the brakes. Also the unit a have is a 24V, can the motor be converted to 12V

I'm probably one of the very few on here who bought an 8274 brand new! It did the brake juddering thing out of the box - so I wouldn't worry too much about it!

If you have 24v electrics on your vehicle, keep the winch as 24v.

If not, it would be cheaper to put in a second 24v alternator and a pair of batteries just for the winch than to replace the motor (so long as the alternator is from a scrappy and you don't break the bank on the batteries).

24v has many advantages over 12v - but the main one is that the current draw is halved, which translates in to 1/4 the heat generated in the motor for the same load.

This in turn means you can run the winch four times as long before the motor overheats.

Si

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When rebuilding the brake i put in HD pads, and new balls, thats all it needed, and put plenty of grease in the centre where the balls and spring go. Also modified brake to stop it all flying apart if the circlip comes off, can be seen on gwyns website.

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I'm probably one of the very few on here who bought an 8274 brand new! It did the brake juddering thing out of the box - so I wouldn't worry too much about it!

If you have 24v electrics on your vehicle, keep the winch as 24v.

If not, it would be cheaper to put in a second 24v alternator and a pair of batteries just for the winch than to replace the motor (so long as the alternator is from a scrappy and you don't break the bank on the batteries).

24v has many advantages over 12v - but the main one is that the current draw is halved, which translates in to 1/4 the heat generated in the motor for the same load.

This in turn means you can run the winch four times as long before the motor overheats.

Si

Yes, deffinatly stay with 24V!!! I'm just about to do the 24V conversion on my truck; the benifits are huge if you're doing a lot of winching. The only downside is that there are less aftermarket motors available to choose from. The only real choice is the Bowmotor if you want something a bit more beefy.

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Yes, deffinatly stay with 24V!!! I'm just about to do the 24V conversion on my truck; the benifits are huge if you're doing a lot of winching. The only downside is that there are less aftermarket motors available to choose from. The only real choice is the Bowmotor if you want something a bit more beefy.

Can I run the winch motor off 24V and keep the vehicle on 12V ( I have two batteries ). Also I am putting the winch bake together, which parts of the brakes do I grease?

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Can I run the winch motor off 24V and keep the vehicle on 12V ( I have two batteries ). Also I am putting the winch bake together, which parts of the brakes do I grease?

Yes you can, As Si says the best thing to do is source a 24v alternator run that off the engine and then buy two cheapish 12v batteries wired in series for your 24v set up. If you look on tech archive you'll see a battery suggested by White 90 etc that is low price and performs well.

When I serviced the brake on mine I didn't grease the ball bearings. I removed the brake still on the shaft. Place the the shaft in a vice (gently ;) ) with the brake laying horizontally. Used two molegrips to hold brake while I removed the circlip. Then slowly realesed molegrips. being horizontal the ball bearings stay in place and don't need grease to stick when it comes to re-assembly. Thanks to on hand advice from Nick Watts (RogueVogue) and use of Paul Wightmans part washer etc :)

With the warn brake pads the recommendation from Warn is not to use grease or oil to lubricate ball bearings. I followed this recommendation, but doesn't mean you have to.

If you just have the juddering I would leave the brake alone, as you can see most do this anyway.

Cheers

Steve

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Can I run the winch motor off 24V and keep the vehicle on 12V ( I have two batteries ). Also I am putting the winch bake together, which parts of the brakes do I grease?

2 batteries can be connected in series to get 24V. But then they need to be charged (24V alternator) and discharged in series.

If they are at different state of charge, because one is used to supply 12V to the starter, lights etc, then you will have trouble.

The unused battery will get overcharged and the used one will not be charged fully. This is not good for batteries.

One option is to have separate 12V and 24V systems. This requires 2 alternators and 3 batteries.

Another option (which I have no experience with) is something like this.

Or (no experience) something like this.

When winching, you normally depend on the alternator to supply a lot of the current, so for a 24V winch motor, you should have a high output 24V alternator.

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Going back to the brake judderin , "JCB special gear oil" Its used in the back axle of the JCB 3cx , where they have multiple friction plates for the braking system .

The oil is specified by JCB and has an anti-judder additve . So why not try it on 8274 brake plates , But not the standard cardboard ones , try it on the uprated Giggle pin types , I was told they are very resiliant to oil .

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