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so im onto land rover number 6... a project to fund brians rebuild.


discomikey

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i have just purchased (well dad has) a 1950's series 2 suffix A reg,

galved rolling chassis with origional engine, gearbox, new bulkhead (or v. good second hand) anothe bulkhead, tub bolted on and painted up, everything else needs putting on though im told its complete just needs building etc.

full soft top and safari hardtop, i get both. the owner is selling due to illness which is a shame, but he gladly sold it to me as the other person interested wanted to turn it into an off roader which was too much of a shame for such a nice rebuild vehicle.

the plan is to rebuild it and sell on to a loving owner once its MOT'd and taxed. then the profits will be put to brians rebuild.

this will be the rebuild thread collecting it next weekend so pictures to follow at some point.

first question, could i modify the spare good series 2 bulkhead to take a series 3 dash and extras? (for brian)

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i did think that, the drivers side pillar ripped from the bulkhead on one edge, it may be twisted, need some sort of jig or measurements to confirm that though, a couple of new footwells, 1 corner and the pillar fixed and if its straight it should be ok then.

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here it is all loaded up onto the trailer, disco was filled with boxes and bits, all bodypanels are there, seems to be much more switches and smaller components that are needed, so a sale might be coming at some point. cant wait to start work on it,

had to winch it onto the trailer with my mates REALLY nice ragtop td5 90 200bhp and middlebox out. does sound sweet!

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  • 1 month later...

progress so far-

  • clutch is siezed needs a new slave, which is pretty easy.
  • engine was also siezed. beyond unsiezing £50 saw me a direct replacement. which is ready to drop in as soon as ive washed it off and painted it up.
  • made a start on the wiring which i can get back to this weekend

back in the workshop

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yes they do, unfortunatley i need to get as much money as possible out of this build to fund brian and my insurance increase. hopefully theyll be money spare for another project though!!

update time. i PROMISE pictures tomorrow, but it doesent look like a lot has been done, in fact it looks like ive gone backwards, pulled the engine out and waiting to clean off and paint the replacement before refitting.

ive stripped the wiring that the P/O had started as it seems even though his mechanical skills are top notch and hes done a really nice job of what he has done, his wiring lets him down, it would have been fine for a do up and sell, but not for a top notch resto. so ive started again, all of the wires are run for the headlight dip and main, the main beam warning light, the horn, all sidelights, all indicators, (bar the ignition live feed) brake lights.

all im waiting on now to finish the wiring is an ignition switch, indicator switch (see other thread) and voltage control box.

all of the wires i have used are the same colour, most of you will frown on this, but it saved me money buying a roll of sevaral different colours. and im doing it methodically one part at a time, and labelling all wires. the only problem being futre diagnostics could be a problem, but as the wiring i do i pride myself in being very neat and not causing any problem areas, (i think about all futre problems with it and where it could go wrong) it should be fine, it will also be well protected, as the loom is going to be sleeved once i am certian that i have got all of the wires that i need in, and exiting the loom in the rihgt places.

the loom to the rear lights is fed through the chassis and it also connected to the front half via connectors so could be replaced in the futre (not that it would ever need to be as it is mega protected and no joins between bulkhead and rear light connectors).

used about 30+ metres of wire so far and am yet to wire up the engine electrics such as ancilliaries and ignition.

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picture time :)

a view of the loom on the front so far

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a view of the junction down to the dip switch and rear lights.

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the cables for the rear lights are twin cable in a thick outer insulation (not 240v wire before you say)

one for the tail/stop and one for L/H and R/H indicators.

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showing it popping out the other end ( i will get grommets for both ends)

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popping up in the O/S rear corner with the wires to transfer side to side.

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showing the side to side wires (i personally wrapped this myself and it took AGES) will be fixed up using P clips to the crossmember to tub bolts.

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popping up other side

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and this is what the P/O was going to use. which personally i dont like on vehicles.

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shabby looking ali vent panels corroded and the holes werent straight

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a lot of filing and sanding later and it looks like this, i still need to go over it with wet and dry then polish it but itll do for now.

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comparison again

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some parts on the vehicle looked a bit shabby as they have been rebuilt and repainted, but a while ago:

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BUT, a quick wash up on a couple of parts showed that the paint was still good and doesent need redoing. which is a plus.

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a view of the messy workshop, maybe you can spot the wiper motor. i think i am going to have to make a mounting bracket as there is not 1 with it, but there doesent seem to be any mounting points on the body, the only thing i can think of is if it was clamped, a bit like how a distributor is attached to the bulkhead. but i painted it now so at least it looks shiney.post-13725-0-24058700-1322335114_thumb.jpg

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now, although the bulkhead is perfect in structural terms, it seems to have been damaged so i spent half a day sorting it out.

the passengers side near the corner seemed to be bent inwards. so heres how i fixed it. i chocked up the wheels of the land rover, made sure the bulkhead was well secured, and used my bodywork shaping kit. a ratchet strap and a tractor to anchor it.

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the top rail was also bowed backwards 10mm in the center when i measured with the windscreen on.

so my bodywork kit came into use again.

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before i did all this there was also a crease in the front face of it on the passenger side, so using my ingenoius brain, i drilled strategic holes in the back face of the bulkhead. then used a punch to knock out the smaller creased bit, and through the larger hole i used a 1.2" ratchet xtension as a drift.

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these holes will be welded in, ground down and filled before paint.

in this photo you can see the bow. which is now straight and no one would ever tell it was there, im rather pleased with this.

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  • 2 weeks later...

best of luck trying to connect the loom up when you have run all that blue or orange wire. "can you remember which wire the dip or main beam were on?" erm the blue one :hysterical:

what about the horn? blue

Starter solenoid? blue

indicators? blue erm.........

Clifford alarms used black wires for every wire, so you couldn't trace the wires near to the box.

might be expensive buying some colur coded wire but it will be worth it if you are keeping the truck

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labelled when it goes in yes. come back to it after a few months/years it won't make sense, trust me. Especially if its written on masking tape or on the cable with pen, nothing stays legible on a landrover with all the oil, mud and water.

I have had the pleasure :( of working with Krone wiring before BT and Canford standardised their cable colours. If you cut a cable or tried to break in to a loom mid point or tried to cut and re terminate a multicore it was a nightmare. Depending on the cable it took hours to beep it out, blue and white were a pair then helpfully orange and white.......... every colour and a white for a return.

Just my tuppence, trying to save you some grief later.

Pete

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