bobrick Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 hello everyone i am curently restoring a 1960 series 2 (A Suffix) so far i have managed to get the tub off and repair all the the back end aft of centre cross member and replace the clutch. the bulkhead has been taken of ready for prep and weld however i have a few questions i hope some of you may be able to answer (i have attached a bulkhead picture for you to view) 1. what is the best way to repair/weld around the vents i was planning on welding against a brass block to fill in the holes 2. does any one know where i could get hold of a drain channel that sits on the front of the bulkhead between bulkhead and bonnet. 3. how do i identify the carb, i think it may be a solex but it doesent look exactly like any pictures i can find. and i dont think the engine is original finally i dont think the clutch is set right, when i tested it the slave cylinder blew its piston before the pressure plate was disengaged. when i removed the gearbox i removed the acuating bracket and rod so there may be a chance i refitted it 180 degress out where the actuating rod connects to the release bearing rod (hope that makes sense) ill try and find a picture from a manual later cheers for looking a new bulkhead is not an option will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 2. does any one know where i could get hold of a drain channel that sits on the front of the bulkhead between bulkhead and bonnet. i've never seen one but that doesn't mean they dont exist, cant you make one up?its only folded, buy a piece of channel from steel merchants? no it wont be the same, buy repairing a bulkhead in that nick, it wouldnt show.. to be honest looking at the photo, i would say thats fit for a scrap yard! when you say new isnt an option, what about second hand, but one that isn't so bad? something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Series-2-Bulkhead-Plus-New-Footwell-Panels-/220872022889?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item336cff9b69 and it right on your door step!!! 3. how do i identify the carb, i think it may be a solex but it doesent look exactly like any pictures i can find. and i dont think the engine is original what makes you think its not original? is it a 2.25 or 2.5? look here, it could be a zenith. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted October 15, 2011 Share Posted October 15, 2011 hold on, next weekend i am picking up my project series 2 a suffix, there is a spare bulkhead with it, im told its good, i think ill be selling it. will pm you with details as soon as i pick it up next weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobrick Posted October 15, 2011 Author Share Posted October 15, 2011 thanks for the replys guys, apart from the rot in the picture the rest of the bulkhead is sound with minor welding required on passengar door pillar. all the rot is concentrated around the drivers side and both of the footwells are sound, but thanks for the ebay link ill keep my eye on that. i thought about folding a piece of steel for the drain channel however i dont know how to get the curve into it whith it folded or fold it after its curved, i will email ashtree and andover bulkhead restorers and see if they may be able to help me out. wrt the carb, it is mounted on a curved spacer (about 6"long). the fuel inlet banjo is closest to the bulkhead, i have had a look at the glencoyne page already but i cant see how it resembles and of the ones in the pictures, i managed to find a picture of it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotMan Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 Looks like an SU of some type on a 2.0 The wiring looks "fun". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 that's a SU carb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobrick Posted October 16, 2011 Author Share Posted October 16, 2011 cheers western & robotman i suppose the nest question is is it the correct type, looking at the glencoyne site its not a weber, solex or zenith so i suppose not. i still need to get the number off the block but the initial number has a 7 in it so im leaning towards a 17 prefix block the suffix letter is b i'll have a definate number tomorrow. will all the wiring will be replaced by a new loom from auto sparks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 what engine is it? it cant be a 2.25 'cause the carbs on the wrong side?. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobrick Posted October 16, 2011 Author Share Posted October 16, 2011 thats the problem i am not 100% sure what engine it is i will get the serial number ooff it tomorrow which will hopefully shed some light on the situation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 Maybe the pic is taken from the bulkhead side -looks like it to me It's not the 'correct' carb for the engine whatever, SUs were never fitted as factory option to a Land Rover (except maybe the V8s at some obscure point), to my knowledge anyways. The SU is however seen as an aftermarket upgrade, but that one on there at the moment looks rather small, IIRC the 1 3/4" Metro/Maestro/Ital/Montego SUs were a much better size, and gave a small performance boost at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotMan Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 Good call Bowie. Filler pipe gives it away, it's on the drivers side (RHD) so this is being viewed from the flywheel end. It will probably be easiest to get a manifold and Carb complete and just bolt the lot on in one go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 You have got the adapter . so the right SU would give you the best mpg and power, and is easy to tune and stay that way , the fixed jet OE carbs were never that good. JMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobrick Posted October 16, 2011 Author Share Posted October 16, 2011 cheers for the input guys is the general idea to stick with what is fitted will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted October 16, 2011 Share Posted October 16, 2011 "if it works, don't fix it" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted October 17, 2011 Share Posted October 17, 2011 SUs are amongst the better carbs out there. If its got the conversion, going back to standard would be a step backwards IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 SUs are amongst the better carbs out there. If its got the conversion, going back to standard would be a step backwards IMHO. Agreed, just find a later 1.75" carb to bolt on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobrick Posted October 19, 2011 Author Share Posted October 19, 2011 cheers for all the input i have since been down the workshop and i can confirm the sengine serial number starts 901 which according to the glencoyne site makes it a series 3, 3 main bearing petrol 2286. ill leave the carb as it is for the moment as it does appear to work. bowie what do you mean by a 1.75" carb is that a new unit or larger needle cheersw for all your help will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 It's a larger, different carb -from memory this is what suited the series engines the best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C18RCH Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 I don't want to sound dismissive but having just tried to repair my own bulkhead and failed which was, judging from the pic in slightly better condition, I think it might be easier to weld corn flakes . The problem I had with mine is that the available repair panels aren't quite long enough to cover all the rot and it is a lot of work to make the other sections. It may be more cost effective to try and source a secondhand bulkhead. If you really want to salvage yours, I still have my old bulkhead but I won't have access to it until later this month (It's in sheffield I'm in salisbury). I can see if I can remove the drain channel in one piece and if so your welcome to it. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobrick Posted October 22, 2011 Author Share Posted October 22, 2011 Rich cheers for the offer of the drain channel even if you have to remove it in sections ill still be interested. i think its just welded along the join at intervals. Please PM me if you have any luck salvaging it. ref the repair, so far all is going well all the rot on the front has been cut out and im in the process of fabricating the repair panels and the backing angles for the repait to sit on. i spent yesterday am building my self a folder with scrap i had lying arround to speed things up a bit so today well see how we go. ill try and get some more pics of repair in process will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
secondjeremy Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 The channel is held on with numerous spot welds. I think the best way to get it off would be to cut the back panel away all round then grind it off from behind. I think drilling the spot welds out will damage the channel to much. They're rather difficult to paint round - especially underneath and so some crafty priming and sealing before spraying may help preserve the new one. Repairs round the vents are what condemns most rusty bulkheads. If I were doing it I'd bend what I could and try and loose welds in the folds where possible. (I'd also be happy to swap my MIG for gas welding for that job.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C18RCH Posted October 24, 2011 Share Posted October 24, 2011 I'll let you know how I get on removing it. Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobrick Posted November 9, 2011 Author Share Posted November 9, 2011 just thought i would post a few pics of the repair so far, only a liittle bit left to do now and a lick of paint then to source a drain channel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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