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Defender Body Lift


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Hey guys

want to do a 2" body lift on the defender.

now before we get all the people saying why and saying its pointless ill explain why... i need more clearance for the wheels to flex and my rear prop is only 550mm long and with the 2" lift the standard joints are topped out.

so any suggestions guys?

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Depends whether you're up for chopping and welding the chassis really. The first obstacles I can see are the bulkhead outriggers which would be 2" too low, and the tabs on the rear crossmember. I'd be inclinded to mount new bulkhead outriggers 2" higher, and then fit a 2" box section on the top of the rear crossmember with new tabs. What you'd do about he position of the wings at the front would be up to what style of vehicle you're after. You'd need some custom brackets i'd think for the mounting of the front of the tub, and a custom fuel filler hose.

That'd be my initial take on it.

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I know it doesn't solve the clearance issue but have you looked into wide angle or custom made props?

My limited student budget approach to body clearance was to take the grinder to the bodywork :ph34r: I'm sure there are better ways but it seems to have worked ok and enables more upward travel without lifting the vehicle any higher.

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Intereasted in what size tyre you want to run? Personally I would cut the arches out on the front/ challenge wings and the raise the rear tub wheel arch boxes to clear, far easier than trying to body lift as u will require. Fuel lines, brake flexis and pipe, custom brackets and a lot of fab work. Cause u will need to extend the transfer box levers, gear lever unless u got a auto,u would need to raise the seat box supports, new seat belt brackets as the bolt to the tub and chassis from memory. Battery earth, bonnet catch or move radiator up, depends if you have a viscose fan. As previously said wings and there relation to the bulkhead. That's just of the top of me head .

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There would be a huge amount of work to body lift a Defender. Lots of rusty bolts to battle against etc, something needed that can lift the body up, and plenty of general awkwardness, cursing and faffing.

I'd say for the amount of work involved in a body lift, it would be easier and possibly cheaper to invest in whatever is required to lift the suspension further. At the end of the day it does depend on the facilities you have, and how you value your own time.

Wide angle props, extended brake flexy lines, spring spacers, shock mount relocating brackets. All these are easy to bolt on and can be done bit by bit.

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  • 7 months later...

the issue is that the rear prop is bugger all in length... so any suspension lift will compound driveline issues and it works nicely currently...

im running 37" tyres on 2" lift (to get me gearing nice and to look mean and roll over obstacles) so i was looking at ways of raising the body... however if i challenge wing and tray back (aussie style flatbed not challange) that will give me plenty of room but i would still like to lift the cab 2"... besides the outriggers for the bulkhead and the tubular ones that support the tub (and im assuming would support a 110 hicap rear bulkhead) what else would need moving up?

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In practice, people who genuinely want the clearance for off road use have generally veered towards re working the wings and tub. An awful lot of work is required to lift the body and the rewards are slight, especially as you have added the disadvantage of increasing the height of all the body work.

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Nick, just cable tie some blocks of 2x2 between the body and chassis.

the issue is that the rear prop is bugger all in length... so any suspension lift will compound driveline issues and it works nicely currently...

im running 37" tyres on 2" lift (to get me gearing nice and to look mean and roll over obstacles) so i was looking at ways of raising the body... however if i challenge wing and tray back (aussie style flatbed not challange) that will give me plenty of room but i would still like to lift the cab 2"... besides the outriggers for the bulkhead and the tubular ones that support the tub (and im assuming would support a 110 hicap rear bulkhead) what else would need moving up?

and you do realise how rediculous a flatbed 90 would look right? theyre not long enough. why not just rework the wheelboxes, and challenge wing the front!

or put normal tyres back on

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Flatbed would be next to useless I have a disco flatbed and their just isn't the wheelbase. I would re work the wheel boxs it's not hard, use sheet ally and tiger seal to make up some new ones.

As a side note there's a hell of a lot more holding a hi cap body together than first appears.

Will.

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