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110 rear axle - what would you fit?


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My '86 110 project has its standard drum braked Salisbury.

the rear prop that came with it is a genuine FTC 4198, which is apparently for a td5 and none Salisbury model.

It's a lovely chunky looking thing, and I wonder if it would be better to fit a discovery axle, then I get disc brakes as well.

Either that or get GKN to cut it and shut it, does anyone have any data for open and closed lengths of a Salisbury type?

Hope I make sense.

Roland

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Hi,

Your post is slightly ambiguous the way I read it.

So you've got a Salisbury rear axle and you want to fit a Discovery axle and do a cut and shut on the propshaft to make it fit, is that correct?

First things first you can't fit a Discovery axle to a 110 as it's not rated high enough.

I think you can buy disk conversion kits for salibury axles so that maybe a better route to take and then you wont need to mess about with propshafts.

I think a few people on here have completed the conversion.

Steve

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Sort of. The prop I have is too long for the Salisbury by about four inches. I thought it may fit a rover axle but I now wonder if it's for a stubby nosed wolf type axle.

Maybe Ralph could tell us.

My question really was what axle I could fit without cutting the prop, and end up with disc brakes as well.

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Your longer prop will be for the stubby "P38" 110 rear axle, and wont fit a disco or 90 rover rear. The "p38" is also a backwards step in strength terms from what you have now, so its sort of silly to swap to a weaker axle because of a propshaft...

Sell the prop, buy the correct one and convert the salisbury to disks.

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I second Aragorn's comments. I converted an axle to discs, as did Gremlin, using second hand parts (apart from the discs and pads, and reconditioning old callipers with new pistons and seals).

You can use a pair of old front 90/110 hubs that have similar bearing spacing as the existing hubs so that you retain the current stub axles and shafts, though you may need to bevel the inside edge of a spacer washer between the outboard bearing's inner race and the first hub nut as the bearings do sit very slightly closer and the washer will pick up on the bevel of the stub axle where the threads end. You may have to play about shaving or shimming the calliper bracket where it bolts to the axle flange, depending on what discs and callipers you use. I used Defender rear discs with Discovery/90 rear callipers, so had to shim the bracket to align the calliper with the disc. Grem did the same. I think Defender callipers require the step of the bracket to be shaved because of the different thickness of the 200 and 300 Tdi hubs and stub axle lengths putting the disc in a slightly different position.

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Or you can do what I did and take a disco axle, strengthen the casing in the same way as the Wolf Military 110 models (easily as strong as the Salisbury casing) and then fit an Ashcroft locking diff and shafts which are about as strong as the Salisbury items and benefit from being brand new and not 27 years old (as your axle internals will be). Add to that field repair-ability and the fact that you can swap front to back diffs at a push in an emergency and I think the benefits are there. I used a Puma prop which is about an inch & a half too short on a 300 tdi and used an alloy 25mm spacer which works perfect. I did fit late td5 defender rear calipers and discs though

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Better to get the prop the right length than fit spacers - the full length prop will have less UJ movement, making them last longer and reducing vibration, but the spacers will add significant tangental forces to the pinion and bearings, increasing their wear rate and chances of failure.

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your rear prop FTC4198 = http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/7058/4253/1/FTC4198-PROPSHAFT-HEAVY-DUTY-REAR.html

Product Description:
Heavy duty rear prop shaft assembly.
Fits V8 Petrol, 300 TDi and TD5 engine models.
(114cm closed / 120.5cm open)

AFAIK all 300tdi's not including the military XD/Wolf had Salisbury rear axles.

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