Hybrid_From_Hell Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 Let's settle this once and for all: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 I looked up in the construction & use regs about full hydro steer. I had seen a truck at a breakers yard with it fitted and since it had plates, figured it must be road legal.The answer was that - YES it is legal, BUT only on 'agricultural' vehicles limited to no more than 27mph. The truck I saw was used for baggage handling at the airport. Still, I guess your average e-Truck rarely even goes that fast, so it's probably OK. Si 27 mph The average TDi will be able to run it fully road legal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 The average TDi will be able to run it fully road legal OI my shed resembles that remark... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 Let's settle this once and for all: I totally agree, some just suck faster than others The important question is if this works why go hydraulic???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D9OSV Posted October 4, 2006 Share Posted October 4, 2006 *Thread Hi-jack* Again......... Check out page 148 of LRM, funniest thing i've read i ages...... And kinda on topic........ Paul, you must have a smilie account thats costs a fortune..... Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve 90 Posted July 25, 2007 Share Posted July 25, 2007 Paul, Seing as you have been running the hydro assist system for a while now have you had any problems? Any clearance issues? (other than the oil filter at Taunton) Does it clear the Panhard rod O.K. as the suspension drop's? did you find any problems caused by the drag link rocking when changing direction? Just in the process of fitting mine now, ZF 74 pump in place, Steering box should be on tomorrow afternoon but the problem I have is I have made a few different sets of ram brackets and really cant decide where to mount it. kinda like the way you have yours, its well protected and just about the best solution I can see. Any feedback would be great. Cheers. Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Spot Posted July 25, 2007 Share Posted July 25, 2007 Hydro assist is legal on road vehicles as there is a mechanical link through the steering, not just a fluid pipe as on full hydraulic steering. Why not use those lovely hydraulics to power your winch as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Wightman Posted July 26, 2007 Author Share Posted July 26, 2007 Steve, the ram assist has been faultless. The drag ling does thrash around when changing direction and has caused a few comments but but is not a problem. On the truck I am not building I plan to locate the ram end ball joint on the centre line of the drag link. Spot, I could wear a nappy on my head and grow a straggly beard but I chose not to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D9OSV Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 Spot, I could wear a nappy on my head and grow a straggly beard but I chose not to. Very funny Although off topic........... Spot, am loving the crankshaft direct drive on your MM, that is seriously nice Good work Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 First the winch.Two 12v 6hp XP motors running on 24v water cooled. Paul, nice work quick question, is there enough room inside the housing to fit the drive cog on the second motor or has it got to be relieved a bit? the mounting plate for the second motor, is that rose welded from the inside? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve 90 Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 Steve, the ram assist has been faultless. The drag ling does thrash around when changing direction and has caused a few commentsbut but is not a problem. On the truck I am not building I plan to locate the ram end ball joint on the centre line of the drag link. Spot, I could wear a nappy on my head and grow a straggly beard but I chose not to. BEEN TRYING TO FIND A WAY OF MOUNTING IT ON THE CENTRE LINE OF THE LINK BUT ON MINE IT HAS TO STAND ABOUT 1-1 1/2 INCHS ABOVE TO AVOID THE PANHARD ROD MOUNTING ON THE AXLE WHEN THE AXLE IS AT THE TOP OF ITS TRAVEL. (Sorry, accidently hit caps lock) Just taken the springs out so I can move the suspension and try and find a way round it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bull Bar Cowboy Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 Steve, the ram assist has been faultless. Paul ............... was that before or after you welded the bracket to the axle under the oil filter ............ :lol: I was impressed with the field fix though ...............what size hammer did you use on the filter Yeah, and who am I to talk ................ I have just welded a bracket onto the fan shroud only to find the fan blades hit the bracket !!!!!!! Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Wightman Posted July 26, 2007 Author Share Posted July 26, 2007 quick question,is there enough room inside the housing to fit the drive cog on the second motor or has it got to be relieved a bit? the mounting plate for the second motor, is that rose welded from the inside? Tonk, the top housing shown is a Gigglepin 'first attempt', yes the inside of the housing requires machining to clear the drive gear. The mounting plate for the second motor is secured with many screws, I think welding would cause distortion on such a thin casting. I now use the latest new casting version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 cheers Paul, i think i'm going to try and distort mine with welding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve 90 Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 Paul, Where did you route the hose's for the ram? Having trouble finding a route that clears everything and doesnt cause problems with suspension movement! Dont spose you have any photo's of the hose routing? Cheers. Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stumpy2268 Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 Paul, To go back some way in the thread, I would not put Calgon in your cooling system or washer bottle, as it is very corrosive, and intended to be washed through a washing machine and then down to drain. There is therefore a good chance that the Calgon would eat all the seals in your recirc pump, and attack your copper tube from the inside out. If you wish to reduce the rate of limescale deposit, you could add Citric Acid ( Jif lemon juice ), or Acetic Acid ( Vinegar ). You should however be carful not to allow the pH to get too low, as the acidity will also ruin your system. In short, why not put a drain valve in the circuit, and dump the water regularly Nice fabrication by the way. Good to hear from you. Adrian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 cheers Paul,i think i'm going to try and distort mine with welding We machined the lot out of 5 peices of 12mm ally plate, then welded it and machined the recesses for the motor shafts and intermediate shaft Another home made twin motor tophousing I've seen had the second motor plate machined out of steel which was then bolted with 4x M10 capheads, AFAIK it works very well Lewis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Wightman Posted July 29, 2007 Author Share Posted July 29, 2007 Paul,To go back some way in the thread, I would not put Calgon in your cooling system or washer bottle, as it is very corrosive, and intended to be washed through a washing machine and then down to drain. There is therefore a good chance that the Calgon would eat all the seals in your recirc pump, and attack your copper tube from the inside out. If you wish to reduce the rate of limescale deposit, you could add Citric Acid ( Jif lemon juice ), or Acetic Acid ( Vinegar ). You should however be carful not to allow the pH to get too low, as the acidity will also ruin your system. In short, why not put a drain valve in the circuit, and dump the water regularly Nice fabrication by the way. Good to hear from you. Adrian. Adrian, thanks, it's good to know there are people here who can offer sound advice and prevent the ignorant from making fools of themselves. What about Cillit Bang? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve 90 Posted July 29, 2007 Share Posted July 29, 2007 Steering all done, Ram mounted in the same position as Pauls. Been out for a quick try in it and its brilliant, Being able to steer the landrover is quite amazing. Only one problem is that the rocking through the Drag link (as Paul has already mentioned) is causing the lock nuts on the track rod ends to come loose! need to find some way of stopping this happen!!!!! Paul, have you experienced any problem like this?? If so, Any idea's how to sort it?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Wightman Posted July 29, 2007 Author Share Posted July 29, 2007 Well done Steve, strange having steering that works ain't it! I've not had problems with the locknuts coming undone. Have you got flats on the shaft to enable the nuts to be done uo tight? The answer is to either mount the ram ball joint on the centre-line of the drag link or on the arm on the swivel housing. If I build another truck I will probably try and mount it on the arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smo Posted July 29, 2007 Share Posted July 29, 2007 Can any of you chaps post a break down of what is needed for hydro assist stearing as i'd like to try it on my d-lander as i'm going to be running 37" tyres and think it would be of benefit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve 90 Posted July 31, 2007 Share Posted July 31, 2007 Can any of you chaps post a break down of what is needed for hydro assist stearing as i'd like to try it on my d-lander as i'm going to be running 37" tyres and think it would be of benefit Yep, will sort some pic's and post somit as soon as I have more than 5 mins! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02GF74 Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 Adrian, thanks, it's good to know there are people here who can offer sound advice and prevent the ignorant from making fools of themselves.What about Cillit Bang? limescale deposit? where does that come from? answer: tap water. so isn't it easier/better(?) to use water that does not suffer from this problem - e.g. rain water collected in a bucket or de-ionised water? (I use the latter in my cooling systems, from Wilkinsons) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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