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7 hours ago, De Ranged said:

Had a good day in the shed..... 

Finished the adapter manifold to turn the intake manifold around.... got it painted before I came home. Needed this done so I could set the height of the windscreen as I've made the call to shrink the whole cab lol its the whole competition thing 

So to this end I've been doing alot of measuring, going to make the cab 1560mm wide at the base and I'm going to put the tapper back in the top section lol it just didn't look right..... when I bolt on the adapter manifold so I can lower the windscreen down to the intake manifold.... this will be about 75-100mm lower I'm taking this out of the section where the vents are below the windscreen 

Shrinking the cab is going to make this look a lot american as I'm planing on running a widened front axle I make a while back with the 35x10.5 Silverstones outside wheel to outside wheel it will be 1855mm wide (club and most of the competitions) With the 36.5x12.5 Simex's on 10" wide rims it will be 1985mm wide...... so there will be alot of tyre sticking outside lol 

Hopefully more tomorrow

Sounds like the width will be similar to mine then. With my 37" treps, banded Wolfs and the widened rover axle I'm looking at 1998mm outside to outside. Which as it happens is almost exactly the same as the current RR/Sport. 

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Didn't achieve as much as I wanted to on this trip home lol 

I did get the adapter manifold all done.....done old school traced the flanges onto steel oxy cut them then die ground the carp out of it to fit the tubes, machining it flush was a bit of a delicate situation, I couldn't get a good reliable clamp in my tilt machine vice so it was a very light cuts and watching the whole thing for movement


Just got to make up a new coolant outlet and a fuel rail cross pipe for the injectors and this problem is solved 

The only bit I'm not happy about is to keep the short, (the longer the adapter manifold the more it will change the torque curve on the motor) it ment that I wasn't able to tuck the manifold down as tight to the motor as I would have liked..... this means there is going to be a bump in the engine cover that will come right up into the windscreen lol be interesting to see what it looks like when its done 

I need a little help was planing on putting some rose joints in the suspension..... I picked up a couple of these joints from a Range Rover a few yrs back with the intent of trying them out and have lost the file with the part number 


My Landy mate can supply me with something close catch is its wider 65mm vs 55mm on mine and mounting section is wider as well (His part number is RBK500220 )

There was a thread on here about using them over normal Rose (Heim) joints but I've been unable to find it..... if I can't find a part number for them I'll toss them back into the parts storage untill I get a job where replacement isn't going to be an issue and get a heap of the wider ones 

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That's the thread with them in it if you go to page 5.

I got some of each recently,  both the narrow flanged ones RBK500220 and the wider non flanged ones RHF500130. Both have 16.3mm bolt holes and 54mm diameters and both types I have only have about 14º of angularity. I got them in anticipation of using them for the rear links on the 6x6 Volvo I'm building just now. They're an awkward size as it's not the ID of any handy tube so I'll need to turn some bushings to hold them. I don't see much advantage with the wider ones to be honest as they'll be harder to mount and at least the narrow ones can be spaced to suit a regular rod end mounting if these don't work out. 

You'll be pleased to know I fully intend to plagiarise your bendy over the axle link idea for my rear bogie links but I'm not near that stage yet, I'm pretty slow and just playing with the front just now.







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Thank you for that, yes that 54mm dia is a bit of a bugger to mount, but I have a lathe and turning out a dia is easy.... going to have to turn a alloy heat sink to tolerance fit inside the mounts for welding so I can limit weld warp-age 

All good copy as much as you want, if you want to copy the whole suspension I can post up all the details the reversed AS curve is due to the short top links as well

Haven't had much to post up....  things haven't been working out lol 



This will give you an idea of how many times I've adjusted this......


I've checked repeat-ability with the digital level on several occasions and always within 0.1 degrees so I kept thinking I'm stuffing up and getting caught by the angle of the floor, figured the angle of the floor was putting my eye-o-meter out because things didn't look square so kept checking twice sometimes 3 times before I weld and things still didn't line up..... wasted days cutting, jigging measuring and welding struggling the lid backon and still out..... I'm glad I made the call to run with a standard landy cab because if i'd modified it I wouldn't have picked up the problem and here it is 


This little bugger has had me running in circles..... I'd tested it to see if its working take a reading, take it off move it around even shake it and then put it back and check always within 0.1 degree it wasn't till I decided to check opposite corners of the cab that I caught it out.... effectively if I was to turn it around as it sits so the screen faces forward it would be 1.5 degrees out flip it so the top of the screen is resting on the surface and its 2-3 degrees out! I've measured the top and bottom surfaces and they are parallel so this is an issue with the digital sensor probably been like this since new......  so back to a trusty old rafters square, tape and Pythagoras

Oh and just a call out to any of the kiwis on site I'm after another series windscreen lol  

Edited by De Ranged
cose I made a mistake lol

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Just about got all the pillars sorted lol 

Got the rear "chassis" tubes in and the tub capping in place.... I would really have liked to bolt this on so I could have galv'd it but bolting it just wouldn't give it the same strength.... there won't be any barwork for the rear guards that capping is it so....


The suspension will come up through this, and yes the tow hook mount is double shear, the Tube to Chassis mounts are just plug welds at this stage till I can remove the red jig tube that is holding the cab sides in place 

Here is a couple of shots showing the rear dove tail lines 



The tub will be mostly just skins as the radiator is going out back and I'm still uncertain where I'm putting the fuel tank (or tanks) but I'm working on the idea of a tailgate that drops down to access a locker in the back for tool storage.... if I ever carry a spare I'll make a swing out mount to to stand it up above the tow hook 

I've got another night at the shed before I'm off again so I'm hoping to get all the major bar work for the rear of the cab done 

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The back one is the easy one lol the only tricky bit is the amount of cut out for the wheel in guard..... the front dovetail now that I can't visualize, I really don't know if I can make it work lol that will be a wait n see 

Got a bit more time in the shed, was on a roll, finished cutting and straightening the Drivers B pillar and Plated for the cage attachment, got the capping sorted for the drives side of the tub, made up a set of hammer form dies to make a folded edge on the inside of the capping - cage plate, cut and formed these plates, bent up the two corner cage supports, got one of them mounted...... all in three hrs was looking at the getting the rear of the cage all done in the next 4.... and a couple of mates rock in with drinks lol so here is where I stopped 



This thing is going to look sick when its done at the moment sitting on the jack stands with the 36" tyre 2" off the ground if you look across the top of the tub at my 109" in the background the tub on this is 3" lower and the 109" is sitting in a lower section of the floor so all up this is going to sit 7"s lower with bigger wheels and a bucket load more ground clearance.... I'm happy lol 

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When mates arrive with drinks, you hand them a grinder ;)

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9 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

When mates arrive with drinks, you hand them a grinder ;)

Lol I'm the one who builds there rides for a reason......

8 hours ago, noexitroad said:

Did you get a windscreen? I have got one but I am in Kerepehi. 

Thanks mate, I've got a reply on a Landy spare parts group from up Gisborne, I'll see how it works out 


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Another update

Got a couple of evenings on it so 

I got a new renovator so ground down and sharpened up a cutting tool for it and did a bit of cutting 


Got the rear end framework is done for now 



Camera stuffed up perspective.... the back cage brace bars are narrower at the back of the tub than up at the B pillar 

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Also got the A pillar bent up and on 


I've taken a bit of a gamble on the shape I've stuck it up a bit more than the roof line so I'd be able to fit a light bar up under the pillar.... the strap is to "tweek" it a bit as I bent it symmetrical the catch is the old cab isn't lol so pulling it a little before I weld up the roof brace 


this shows how high I pushed it up, hopefully I can make it look right 

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On 1/28/2019 at 10:45 PM, landroversforever said:

That's looking great, I love the lines of the rear :) 

Thats the easy one, getting the front to look right that is going to be a bit of a challenge.......

The paneling to finish the look of the rear is a long way off as I'm just trying to work on the heavy stuff so I can set the leaf springs for the rear, ordered the suspension joints so will have a go at the top links and roof next time I'm home 

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A small update  this time..... was distracted with my 40 Series Cruiser went to take it out for a play and discovered the bottom end bearings had gone, carb float had been set too high and was pouring fuel into the motor enough had gotten past the rings that the oil had thinned out. So after alot of research I made the call to repower with an LS1, the cruiser is about playing with mates... not about problem solving and making it into something cool lol so I'm throwing way to much money at it to sort it quickly 

As well as that I did a favor for a mate for his truck (a gen 1 hilux with a lexus conversion) I took his front axle housing and shaved braced and true'd it for him 

But I did manage to get a little bit done on the toy.... I got a seat mounted lol Wahoo! This might sound a bit odd and all over the place but we have rather restrictive rules regarding the cage roof and crew halo's, the dimensions that these are set too are (from the centerline of the cage tube to the center of the helmet) +/- 25mm and the same forward so you need to know where your sitting to build the roof 



Now not to scite but thats light wall 25mm tube bent in my pipe crusher and no crimping or crushing 😎

This may change in the long term as I still haven't worked out the rear leaf spring mount member and I may change the rear of the seat bar to mount to that instead... time will tell 


This shows the angle the seat is mounted on. This will hopefully keep my legs clear of the firewall over the motor and it keeps my shoulders inside the cab lol 


Still got another mount to do but that will come off the lower part of the engine fire wall when its up 

But with the three of them I was able to get the helmet position and start the roof (I don't have any pics of that as I've only just started) but the outside of the halo bar has 5 bends to track the line of the roof and cage lol most of them very subtle unless you look close you'd miss them yet without them the roof doesn't look right 

Oh and got a box of goodies delivered 


For next time 

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