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7 hours ago, De Ranged said:

Had a good day in the shed..... 

Finished the adapter manifold to turn the intake manifold around.... got it painted before I came home. Needed this done so I could set the height of the windscreen as I've made the call to shrink the whole cab lol its the whole competition thing 

So to this end I've been doing alot of measuring, going to make the cab 1560mm wide at the base and I'm going to put the tapper back in the top section lol it just didn't look right..... when I bolt on the adapter manifold so I can lower the windscreen down to the intake manifold.... this will be about 75-100mm lower I'm taking this out of the section where the vents are below the windscreen 

Shrinking the cab is going to make this look a lot american as I'm planing on running a widened front axle I make a while back with the 35x10.5 Silverstones outside wheel to outside wheel it will be 1855mm wide (club and most of the competitions) With the 36.5x12.5 Simex's on 10" wide rims it will be 1985mm wide...... so there will be alot of tyre sticking outside lol 

Hopefully more tomorrow

Sounds like the width will be similar to mine then. With my 37" treps, banded Wolfs and the widened rover axle I'm looking at 1998mm outside to outside. Which as it happens is almost exactly the same as the current RR/Sport. 

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Didn't achieve as much as I wanted to on this trip home lol 

I did get the adapter manifold all done.....done old school traced the flanges onto steel oxy cut them then die ground the carp out of it to fit the tubes, machining it flush was a bit of a delicate situation, I couldn't get a good reliable clamp in my tilt machine vice so it was a very light cuts and watching the whole thing for movement

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Just got to make up a new coolant outlet and a fuel rail cross pipe for the injectors and this problem is solved 

The only bit I'm not happy about is to keep the short, (the longer the adapter manifold the more it will change the torque curve on the motor) it ment that I wasn't able to tuck the manifold down as tight to the motor as I would have liked..... this means there is going to be a bump in the engine cover that will come right up into the windscreen lol be interesting to see what it looks like when its done 

I need a little help was planing on putting some rose joints in the suspension..... I picked up a couple of these joints from a Range Rover a few yrs back with the intent of trying them out and have lost the file with the part number 

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My Landy mate can supply me with something close catch is its wider 65mm vs 55mm on mine and mounting section is wider as well (His part number is RBK500220 )

There was a thread on here about using them over normal Rose (Heim) joints but I've been unable to find it..... if I can't find a part number for them I'll toss them back into the parts storage untill I get a job where replacement isn't going to be an issue and get a heap of the wider ones 

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That's the thread with them in it if you go to page 5.

I got some of each recently,  both the narrow flanged ones RBK500220 and the wider non flanged ones RHF500130. Both have 16.3mm bolt holes and 54mm diameters and both types I have only have about 14º of angularity. I got them in anticipation of using them for the rear links on the 6x6 Volvo I'm building just now. They're an awkward size as it's not the ID of any handy tube so I'll need to turn some bushings to hold them. I don't see much advantage with the wider ones to be honest as they'll be harder to mount and at least the narrow ones can be spaced to suit a regular rod end mounting if these don't work out. 

You'll be pleased to know I fully intend to plagiarise your bendy over the axle link idea for my rear bogie links but I'm not near that stage yet, I'm pretty slow and just playing with the front just now.

 

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Thank you for that, yes that 54mm dia is a bit of a bugger to mount, but I have a lathe and turning out a dia is easy.... going to have to turn a alloy heat sink to tolerance fit inside the mounts for welding so I can limit weld warp-age 

All good copy as much as you want, if you want to copy the whole suspension I can post up all the details the reversed AS curve is due to the short top links as well

Haven't had much to post up....  things haven't been working out lol 

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This will give you an idea of how many times I've adjusted this......

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I've checked repeat-ability with the digital level on several occasions and always within 0.1 degrees so I kept thinking I'm stuffing up and getting caught by the angle of the floor, figured the angle of the floor was putting my eye-o-meter out because things didn't look square so kept checking twice sometimes 3 times before I weld and things still didn't line up..... wasted days cutting, jigging measuring and welding struggling the lid backon and still out..... I'm glad I made the call to run with a standard landy cab because if i'd modified it I wouldn't have picked up the problem and here it is 

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This little bugger has had me running in circles..... I'd tested it to see if its working take a reading, take it off move it around even shake it and then put it back and check always within 0.1 degree it wasn't till I decided to check opposite corners of the cab that I caught it out.... effectively if I was to turn it around as it sits so the screen faces forward it would be 1.5 degrees out flip it so the top of the screen is resting on the surface and its 2-3 degrees out! I've measured the top and bottom surfaces and they are parallel so this is an issue with the digital sensor probably been like this since new......  so back to a trusty old rafters square, tape and Pythagoras

Oh and just a call out to any of the kiwis on site I'm after another series windscreen lol  

Edited by De Ranged
cose I made a mistake lol

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Just about got all the pillars sorted lol 

Got the rear "chassis" tubes in and the tub capping in place.... I would really have liked to bolt this on so I could have galv'd it but bolting it just wouldn't give it the same strength.... there won't be any barwork for the rear guards that capping is it so....

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The suspension will come up through this, and yes the tow hook mount is double shear, the Tube to Chassis mounts are just plug welds at this stage till I can remove the red jig tube that is holding the cab sides in place 

Here is a couple of shots showing the rear dove tail lines 

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The tub will be mostly just skins as the radiator is going out back and I'm still uncertain where I'm putting the fuel tank (or tanks) but I'm working on the idea of a tailgate that drops down to access a locker in the back for tool storage.... if I ever carry a spare I'll make a swing out mount to to stand it up above the tow hook 

I've got another night at the shed before I'm off again so I'm hoping to get all the major bar work for the rear of the cab done 

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The back one is the easy one lol the only tricky bit is the amount of cut out for the wheel in guard..... the front dovetail now that I can't visualize, I really don't know if I can make it work lol that will be a wait n see 

Got a bit more time in the shed, was on a roll, finished cutting and straightening the Drivers B pillar and Plated for the cage attachment, got the capping sorted for the drives side of the tub, made up a set of hammer form dies to make a folded edge on the inside of the capping - cage plate, cut and formed these plates, bent up the two corner cage supports, got one of them mounted...... all in three hrs was looking at the getting the rear of the cage all done in the next 4.... and a couple of mates rock in with drinks lol so here is where I stopped 

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This thing is going to look sick when its done at the moment sitting on the jack stands with the 36" tyre 2" off the ground if you look across the top of the tub at my 109" in the background the tub on this is 3" lower and the 109" is sitting in a lower section of the floor so all up this is going to sit 7"s lower with bigger wheels and a bucket load more ground clearance.... I'm happy lol 

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When mates arrive with drinks, you hand them a grinder ;)

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9 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

When mates arrive with drinks, you hand them a grinder ;)

Lol I'm the one who builds there rides for a reason......

8 hours ago, noexitroad said:

Did you get a windscreen? I have got one but I am in Kerepehi. 

Thanks mate, I've got a reply on a Landy spare parts group from up Gisborne, I'll see how it works out 

 

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Another update

Got a couple of evenings on it so 

I got a new renovator so ground down and sharpened up a cutting tool for it and did a bit of cutting 

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Got the rear end framework is done for now 

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Camera stuffed up perspective.... the back cage brace bars are narrower at the back of the tub than up at the B pillar 

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Also got the A pillar bent up and on 

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I've taken a bit of a gamble on the shape I've stuck it up a bit more than the roof line so I'd be able to fit a light bar up under the pillar.... the strap is to "tweek" it a bit as I bent it symmetrical the catch is the old cab isn't lol so pulling it a little before I weld up the roof brace 

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this shows how high I pushed it up, hopefully I can make it look right 

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On 1/28/2019 at 10:45 PM, landroversforever said:

That's looking great, I love the lines of the rear :) 

Thats the easy one, getting the front to look right that is going to be a bit of a challenge.......

The paneling to finish the look of the rear is a long way off as I'm just trying to work on the heavy stuff so I can set the leaf springs for the rear, ordered the suspension joints so will have a go at the top links and roof next time I'm home 

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A small update  this time..... was distracted with my 40 Series Cruiser went to take it out for a play and discovered the bottom end bearings had gone, carb float had been set too high and was pouring fuel into the motor enough had gotten past the rings that the oil had thinned out. So after alot of research I made the call to repower with an LS1, the cruiser is about playing with mates... not about problem solving and making it into something cool lol so I'm throwing way to much money at it to sort it quickly 

As well as that I did a favor for a mate for his truck (a gen 1 hilux with a lexus conversion) I took his front axle housing and shaved braced and true'd it for him 

But I did manage to get a little bit done on the toy.... I got a seat mounted lol Wahoo! This might sound a bit odd and all over the place but we have rather restrictive rules regarding the cage roof and crew halo's, the dimensions that these are set too are (from the centerline of the cage tube to the center of the helmet) +/- 25mm and the same forward so you need to know where your sitting to build the roof 

So 

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Now not to scite but thats light wall 25mm tube bent in my pipe crusher and no crimping or crushing 😎

This may change in the long term as I still haven't worked out the rear leaf spring mount member and I may change the rear of the seat bar to mount to that instead... time will tell 

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This shows the angle the seat is mounted on. This will hopefully keep my legs clear of the firewall over the motor and it keeps my shoulders inside the cab lol 

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Still got another mount to do but that will come off the lower part of the engine fire wall when its up 

But with the three of them I was able to get the helmet position and start the roof (I don't have any pics of that as I've only just started) but the outside of the halo bar has 5 bends to track the line of the roof and cage lol most of them very subtle unless you look close you'd miss them yet without them the roof doesn't look right 

Oh and got a box of goodies delivered 

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For next time 

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Got a bit more done on it 

All 4 tyres are now done 

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Got all the machining done on the top link ball joint mounts..... i did cheat lol I had a few hilux tie rods left over from previous work and they happen to have an M21 x 1.5mm thread so I used them to start with lol still had to machine up jam nuts tho 

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The thread bungs are designed to go into 25 NB med pipe this should be plenty for top links 

I was going to use these ball joints on the bottom links at the front but the collar that they mount into is only 21mm wide and I want a bit more meat than that..... I happened to have some Jony joints from another project so I'm making up some thread bungs to weld into the end of the 50 x 50mm box I made the bottom links out of, I'll have to leave the axle end of the bottom links with a rubber mount (because the links aren't straight I need the rubber to hold them in alignment) 

Hopefully tomorrow I'll have the bottom links modified and the top links made and be working on the top link mounts 

Oh cycled the diff on the temp link setup to check drive shaft UJ angles at ride height I have a 6.4 degree angle at the front and 5.3 degrees at the diff, at full drop (10"" drop from ride height) front is 18.4 degrees and rear is 0.3 degrees.... at full bump (6" up from ride height) front is 0.2 degrees and rear is 1.9 degrees 

So my plan is when I setup the top links I'll push them back enough to rotate the diff a couple of degrees, it would be nice if I could run a double carden but there isn't the room at the trans due to part of the trans its self lol 

This will point the rear diff up a fair bit over standard (I already had it pointing up abit) if I start to have issues with front pinion bearings I'll make up a spring out of 3 or 4mm wire and put that on the pinion shaft between the bearings to act like an oil screw 

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A wee bit I didn't post up from last trip home 

I'm doing ball joints on the front of the bottom arms so had to machine up some threaded inserts 

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And what I got sorted yesterday 

Got both the bottom arm joints on..... discovered I'd been in too much of a hurry when I'd machined the thread plugs for the 50 x 50 box, when I'd done my test fit screwing the rod ends in they were still warm lol yep they shrunk, not enough to not work but they are tight..... I know better lol 

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Had a good mate come to play so got a few little jobs sorted like the joining the tub capping to create a structural rear end 

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not that I should ever take a hit across there, given how far the tyres stick out lol it was something structurally that wasn't proper. And yes that is where full bump is going to be for the suspension 

I'm going in this morning to fit the other bottom arm and the missing top arm and cycle the suspension so I can work out clearance between the top arms chassis mounts and the bottom arms. Because my bottom arms come up over the top of the axle it moves them up enough to conflict with the top arms chassis mount.... so they get built accordingly  

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Cycled everything on the temp arms got all the measurements and got the diff set.... nearly got the top arms done, so almost ready to fab up the top chassis mounts. (tomorrow)

Did check the clearance for the tyres to the Tub Capping.... its on the money lol 

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If I set this level of flex in the front its going to make it hard to keep the series guard look lol but I'll deal with that when I get to that end 

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The top links.... been alot more work than I thought but these shouldn't have any issues 

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Started into the Chassis Mount..... this is going to tie into the spring mount that is why it has gone so far back down the chassis 

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I couldn't resist drilling a few speed holes after all this is a comp (ish) buggy 

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There will be a shorter one on this side and a couple of braces inbetween to tie side to side and the X brace between.... I'd have to check the numbers but this gives me 4 adjustments 

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Just read this thread and there is some awesome work done here :D

 

I love how your mind works and you can see it in your head and away you go, top stuff :D

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Looking good! I particularly like what you’ve done with the LR rod end bearings. 

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Thank you Badger, years of practice building stuff has sort of earned me an ability to do that but there is still alot of time spent staring at things problem solving things in my head lol

Thanks LRF I do think they have come out looking cool, but after building them I'd have to say that for the time and effort it took I have my doubts about using them, Here's why

    I"ve got over 2 days of shed time in these two links.... now while this might not sound too bad, consider if I'd gone with Ruff Stuff 7/8" Rod End sets

                                          Ruff Stuff                                                                             Land Rover

Cost per link                     $145.00                                                                               $80.00

Time                                     6hrs                                                                                   18hrs 

Bear in mind I saved alot of time by cutting up some (NOS) hilux tie rods, and ball joints (not in the cost) so if I was to make all of this I'd say your looking at another 6hrs of machining time now you could go to 20mm threaded rod (easy to source, but $130 for a meter) and your still looking at machining receivers. The time on the Ruff Stuff includes the time to machine the Rod End receivers to fit into the structural pipe I used (they are made to fit DOM which is a tube measure) 

Another point of note is these are the britpart ones not LR,  now I made the holders a slight interference fit and I found that knocking some of the joints in the hammer left marks on the mating face of joint and in one case where I didn't tap it with the hammer lined up properly it deformed the bolt hole....... this leaves me with a concern these joints wont last. I can easily get the genuine LR part but they are worth another $20 a joint 

All that said there is one bonus these have over the Ruff Stuff joints they are sealed and given the abrasive nature of our mud that is a big bonus and I'll use them on the front as well (and I like to be different lol)   

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Finished at 2am last night lol Fri night drinks didn't happen and I got my groove on lol I didn't want to stop I got a call from my partner.... I pretended I didn't know what the time was and just needed a bit more to finish..... nope it was home time

Got the top mounts just about done 

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I'm real happy, with how they came out they tie the tube rear too the chassis really well .... still got the plate to go up in the mount to cap the chassis and the base.... but 2am is late enough lol 

And yes the dimpled piece sitting under the engine mount is going to be one of the battery boxes 

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Finally finished with the rear cage now the bottom is in I was able to remove the jigging material I was using to hold the cab sides in position 

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I don't know why but now that the red jig is gone its made the rear end look really short lol 

Now its about mounting things.... Radiator, shocks, bumps, rear battery etc 

 

 

 

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Gidday Guys 

I'm after some input from some of the English/Euro winch comp guys......  I intend to use this for winch comps here in NZ, more for the teams events than the full on winch comp's as they are more about the fun of it than the competitive side 

Now our winch comp stuff is all about dragging yourself through or up stuff here, there isn't much of the "use the winch to traverse" stuff that I've seen on UTube so up front I plan on running a twin electric motor driven pto winch (still working on design and parts list lol) 

But what I'm thinking about is a second rear/mid mounted small electric winch, say a 5000lb... enough that it could pull it back onto its wheels in the case of a roll over or using a block drag its self backwards..... I just don't know if its worthwhile, next what size..... is there a big/small loss of pulling power due to friction pulling around fairleads on the corners of the cage ?  What sort of fairleads are you guys running etc 

 

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Suggest your rear winch is a 9,000lb winch. That is the most common (other than crazy twin motors for full on comps)

Also try and have commonality of parts so you can scavenge from one to fix the other....

Plenty of build threads on here for rear and / or centre mounted winches. :) 

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