deep Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 With the centre diff locked, this will be acting on all 4 wheels With the centre diff locked, normal rear brakes effectively act on all four wheels, while all have grip. And front to back. I used a quad once that only had one brake to serve both back wheels and you couldn't really tell. Because the front brakes weren't working at all, that one brake had to stop the whole vehicle but, of course, it never locked up because is would have had to freeze three wheels to do so, not just one! In that case, there was no differential between front and back - it relied on slippage at the tyres not to wind up the transmission. Off road use only, etc. etc.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted December 28, 2014 Author Share Posted December 28, 2014 So today was Winch test day, inspired by some recent Ladoga youtubing we set off with high spirits and went home with none! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted December 28, 2014 Share Posted December 28, 2014 I miss my V8 PS If you speak nicely with HFH he can hook you up with something for the V8 to help it in the pond Any more vids Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted December 29, 2014 Author Share Posted December 29, 2014 Haha yeah I know he can But its all a bit too complicated for my liking, or at least for this thing, this has to be fixable with a hammer But usually its not a problem but what we did find out was that somehow the rubber boot on the wire from the coil to the distributor had grown in size so as soon as the belts picked up the water at threw it on the dizzy it died. I've previously been in deeper water with no probs so just needs some new rubbers and to be assembled in Silicone Grease. Not only did we have that problem, and the problem with the winch dying. It also overheated and spit out most of its coolant. This was due to me having removed the mech. fan for the watercrossing and the thermo-switch for the 'leccy fan being at the very top point of the cooling system where I was stuck, so it didn't get enough hot coolant on it to start! Of course I could just had done my first test of the winch on flat ground and found the weakness without all the hassle. But where's the fun in that?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 Of course I could just had done my first test of the winch on flat ground and found the weakness without all the hassle. But where's the fun in that?? So true!!! Funfactor is the most important part of our hobby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 Soren does your pto have a shear pin. Some faireys have three different diameter shear pins for different ratings. Mine is ex utility so 11mm cable and 7400lbf rating but for 8mm cable it's only rated at 3800 lbf. Mine has a clutch (makes a nasty clicking noise when over loaded) on mine you need to get the two plates as tight as possible. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 bit more prep required for ladoga! Yes, I am jealous of your testing ground... I had the superwinch ball slip clutch, but it was not good for heavy winching. I think dirtydiesel tried to drill the holes deeper for higher torque. Now I have a shear pin, and that works, just a bit tricky to get the rating right. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted December 29, 2014 Author Share Posted December 29, 2014 Yes it has a shearpin at by the looks of it, that is what has snapped. Will investigate further tomorrow, today has been spend with Jim Marsdens old race car it looks like there is only a 5mm shearpin in it, ill probably just drill it out and fit either an 8mm or if possible 10mm bolt. I need the maximum power out of this thing and I have a spare gear for it if it isn't up for the load. If it can't handle my abuse at all I'll have to make my own gear with a diff like we did on the Viking winch. But being Japanese you should think that it can take some abuse though, when you think about how easily it split here its no use at all as a winch! Haha yeah Ladoga it ain't, but not having been there and only seen it on YouTube I can kinda get the feeling in that Little Marl pit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 I broke a mainshaft on mine when I had no shearpin and the hook got jammed in the fairlead. I'd go 6mm if I were you, use a low quality bolt. it has to shear when you overload it, or you only end up with more trouble. Daan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted December 29, 2014 Author Share Posted December 29, 2014 Obviously I have no clue how strong the worm gear is on this winch, but on the viking winches our weak-point was the 10 spline axle, and even though this isn't actually renowned for its strength, it sure is a lot stronger than a 10mm bolt! So if the worm gear cannot hold up to a 10mm bolt I'll have to revise the whole thing. I've witnessed more than one mechanical that went 'pop' or 'clicke-clack' at loads than I know for certain a good eletric winch could handle. And if that is the case then why have a winch that's hooked up to all the power of the engine? It's not that I don't respect what your saying Daan, you know I do, its just to let you know from my point of view Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 Purely anecdotal and certainly of no creditable value to the discussion about winches, but when I worked on farm machinery the large muck spreaders only used an m6 cap head in single shear on the pto, they only broke when there was a lump of concrete wedged in the auger This was on a fairly sizeable tractor - 162kw (220hp) pto output Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted December 29, 2014 Share Posted December 29, 2014 Most ( prepares to be shot down in flames) farm stuff uses a 10.9 M8 and as lewis says they can transmit a surprising amount of force. Once a suitable strength pin is found sharpness of the clutch and sudden changes in rope load (negligible with a worm) would be the likely cause of failure IMHO. Looking cool, do you think the cable route increases drag to a point where it's overloading/ masking the true performance of the winch? Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oddballrovers Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 Hi Soren We use a 6mm 10.9 bolt and only at one side, the shaft is 20mm, it has only sheared when the hook got jamed in the fairled, wich is fine for us it protects the gear Ole Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted December 30, 2014 Author Share Posted December 30, 2014 Looking cool, do you think the cable route increases drag to a point where it's overloading/ masking the true performance of the winch? Will. Could very well add a lot of extra friction, but I don't think its the case here. I didn't get any of the usual 'pinging' or sudden jolts that a wire catching on to something does. And I've seen routings on Koenig winches that are far worse. Mine is on an uninterrupted straight line to the centre of the drum so the only real problem is that it doesn't wan't to go to the side of the drum. My plan was to use an 8.8 m10 bolt as I haven't really got access to a 10.9. And i'd suspect that would be about the same shear force as a 10.9 8mm? Just a guess I'm no bolt expert But I'm keen to see what my investigations reveal today. It could also be a very bad shearpin that was very close to the end of its life Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 This could help with the cable spooling Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 That, is very clever Mike, one of yours? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 I have seen recovery trucks with similar but use a roller rather than the wear block. I didn't pay too much attention to your routing but it sounds like you have it covered. Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted December 30, 2014 Share Posted December 30, 2014 That, is very clever Mike, one of yours? No not mine just something I came across when researching the ibex it's on a kiwi forum talking about the vector winch system. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted December 30, 2014 Author Share Posted December 30, 2014 Great input guys! We tried the roller thing on viking winch #2 but the effect was negligible. However it had a more narrow drum and a swiveling tube for the wire. It does however seem as though the wire lays much nicer on this winch when it spools in under load, something I'll be able to confirm when I get to testing it again. Back to the issue in hand, it was actually a keyway in the input shaft of the winch that was only connected to the driveflange via a 1/4" pipeplug, so not the strongest solution... So after a quick test-drill in my spare winch to see if the shaft was drill-able I set to drilling through the entire thing and fit an 8mm 8.8 in double shear. The shaft is only 25mm OD and made of Japanese cheese so didn't feel like going for a 10mm. But this'll be a helluva lot stronger! Now is about the time where I'm happy I made it so easy to take out! The thing is all fixed, and so is the ignition so its just awaiting its chance to have revenge on that damn Marl Pit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted January 3, 2015 Author Share Posted January 3, 2015 You've watched the JWH suffer, now watch it conquer! Was VERY wet today and super slippery. But this time we had winch power! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 3, 2015 Share Posted January 3, 2015 Much better Looks to me like your next mod could be to take the ears off the roll hoop somehow, and make something to allow an easier transition for branches to go from windscreen pillar to roof bar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted January 3, 2015 Author Share Posted January 3, 2015 Yeah that cage is just waay too big in every way, eventually I feel like most of the body is getting ripped off along with the cage and something much smaller will replace it. Not for quite some time though, still love the fact that it looks like a Rangie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted January 15, 2015 Author Share Posted January 15, 2015 As you might have seen over in the 'Tools n' Fab' section, I've recently bought a 1" Dimple Die. Now what better vehicle in my fleet to test it on than this Ol' Gal'? Worked really well, the finish can be a lot better if I give it more time, but I just wanted to see how time consuming it was to slab in some dimples at places. Including all dis-assembly/assembly and measuring and drilling with the hole saw this took half an hour. So not bad I reckon And yes there will be fitted sidemarker/blinker lenses again, just didn't want to fit them before my somewhat rough testing session of the winch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted January 15, 2015 Author Share Posted January 15, 2015 Ohh and yes I did put them in upside-down this is completely on purpose as I like to use it as a 'tray' when working on the car, and having all these little funnels to throw nuts, screws and sockets onto the ground would probably be quite the pain! So decided to do it this way, then they can't roll into the holes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 I just LOOVE my new toy Yes, you guessed it, time has come to do some weight-shaving again. So removed the leccy fan and all its ancillaries, couldn't keep the engine cool enough anyways, and refitted everything in the cooling department, the way the factory meant it. Had a good hose from a scrapped Rangie so was able to remove the thermoswitch and housing as well: And as you can see the AC clears nicely Ohh and I also changed the starter-motor and finished up the frontgrille fitting. More tomorrow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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