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Extra Engine Cooling Pt 1 - Fans and vents


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:huh:

:huh:

:blink:

I'm in shock........

I've ordered the bits of wire, relays, relay mounting, some terminals, connectors and some switches and lights, some tape and zippy ties and .........I COULDN'T BELIVE how much it all came to :o

Seems like a couple of quid here and there,...........made for a very finished Big Bill !

Spoke to Tonk re this, he said he's had the same, you think "It will be a few quid B) " and er

Its NOT :huh:

Anyway, if you see any plooms of smoke on saturday or fire engines whizzing around the surrey sussex border it will just be me doing some wiring :lol:

Nige

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Still dubious re Wills post, the grammar and spelling are a little to neat shall we say :)

:lol::lol::lol: One of the few times I actually copied the post into word to check the spelling! If you look at the second post, you'll see its up to my usual standards :P

Nige, yes I'm doing a degree that contains rather a lot of Chemisty :ph34r: . Trying to rebuild a vehicle, fund it and do a degree at the same time is no joke hence the slow progress.

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Surely this would prevent the heat from getting from the cylinder into the water in the first place? 'fraid I am out of other suggestions. :(

I would personaly go for the larger surface area and find a way to keep it clear. SimonR uses a fine Expamet mesh in front of his radiator as he can remove and clean it easily and it keeps the airborne muck out of the rad. His always seems to be running hot too though. :(

You have bigger cylinders burning more few = more heat.

Having bigger cylinders mean that water jacket is smaller = less water.

so from the 2 above, you are heating up less water (than say 3.5) with bigger heaters so it is gonna run hotter than say again, 3.5 l.

Expanded mesh - eeeeeeyak - don't like it myself - B&Q sell it - prefer stainless steel wire mesh - there are 2 companies in UK that do this from microscopic size to reinforrced contrete mesh size.

Nothing earth shattering there.

Now would increasing the water flow through the engine be of benefit? With the type of driving - chugging at low speed at relatively low rpm - you may benefit from a smaller diameter water pulley.

I have one of those fitted - cutsom made - can send you details - that is minimum size that fits the P6 water pump (yours would be RR so dunno how small you can go). A smaller pulley means the WP turns faster but then you hit the probem of cavitation (another good word) at higher rpm, whether this will happen I donl;t know but I doubt it - it would be todards the red line or beyond.

I am trying to get my head around radiator cooling and stuff - there are lost of varaibles - fin area, temperature, air flow, water flow, thermal conductivity etc: without having any data, it is next to impossible to calculate what is best.

For example water flow in the radiator. Is there an optimum rate? Too fast and there is 'not enough time' for the heat to get from the water to the metal and to the air? Too slow, thew water get too cool in the radiator but at the same time the water in the engine is getting too hot as the hot water is not being replaced by the cold quiclkly enough?

that kind ^^^^ of stuff - can't really express myself to make the point.

By the way, where did you get the cat rad from? are they avaialbe in smaller - say S3 sizes?

Is it copper cored or aluminium.

I'll dig out an article about radiator design/fins and send to ya - may be of interest.

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Hiya,

Its copper cored - ali is a fortune

Hand made by a bloke in farnham about 6ft 5 long beard 20+ stone with about 1 tooth left....

I swear I could hear the deliverance tune as I spoke to him, I kid you not, mentioned this chap to JW who PHSL then went and phoned and agreed :lol:

Cost a faior bit though (around £200 ) but that inc other work ie sender sweated in, top hose pipe from a V8 90 rad, extar bleed in top, oil cooler removed etc etc

Done a load of rads for mates and racers etc, when I was there he was building a honeycombe rad for a lagondaa !

Oh, and smaller pulley already on it !

Nige

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As 02 correctly says, more flow is better. Don't worry about residence time in the radiator, you'll get more benefit from pushing more water for less time than less water for more time, since the cooling is quickest with the biggest temperature difference.

Eh ?

WTF are you on about ?

The system has more water, the pulley is smaller the fan is bigger than stad the rad is made by a specialist compnay re off roading and for heat dispation, your point is ?

Cos I'm lost by it ?

Nige

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am trying to get my head around radiator cooling and stuff - there are lost of varaibles - fin area, temperature, air flow, water flow, thermal conductivity etc: without having any data, it is next to impossible to calculate what is best.

For example water flow in the radiator. Is there an optimum rate? Too fast and there is 'not enough time' for the heat to get from the water to the metal and to the air? Too slow, thew water get too cool in the radiator but at the same time the water in the engine is getting too hot as the hot water is not being replaced by the cold quiclkly enough?

Sorry - I'm enjoying the best products of France's wine-growing regions at the moment. I was trying to clarify the ramblings that were about halfway through 02's long and rambling post.

To clarify: faster water flow is better, until it cavitates. Narrower rad fins (with the same volume flow) will give better cooling despite the fact that the water isn't there for as long.

If it still doesn't make sense... ask me in the morning :D

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Eh ?

WTF are you on about ?

The system has more water, the pulley is smaller the fan is bigger than stad the rad is made by a specialist compnay re off roading and for heat dispation, your point is ?

Cos I'm lost by it ?

Nige

I don't understand this response^^^^; All I can say is that I find it somewhat rude. :angry:

TC, like myself was trying to help you; dunno why I bothered.

I won't go back to re-read all the stuff but this is the first time the pulley being smaller than standard was mentioned.

Secondly what if the system has more water - all it means there is more mass to contain the heat but unless you can shift the heat out, it isn't really going to help - for example you can double the size of the radiator but if there is no air flow, then I think you would agree that would not help.

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Reducing the pulley diameter is not a good idea due to the strong possibility of increasing cavitation damage. Even with the standard pulley setup the EFI water pump is renowned for cavitation damage to the ali timing cover (the pump housing). The area that suffers most is right behind the impellor around the two outlets. Speeding up the pump will only worsen this situation.

This effect is more pronounced when no coolant has been used in the engine (just plain H2O)………. But it is still a problem even with added coolant.

I have yet to find a EFI time cover without some indication of this type of damage.

Ian

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