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Stub axles and Hubs

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3 years ago I rebuilt my front axle and fitted new stub axles. The stub axles used were appropriate for the year (84). I don't recall anything untoward when assembling them with new bearings.

However I have now noticed on stripping the hub for adjustment that the thrust washer fouls the end of the tab groove meaning that I can't tighten the bearing until the hub won't rotate. So it appears the hub is too narrow or stub axle is too long.

I seem to recall that later hubs are narrower could it be that I have a later hub on an earlier stub axle ?

There doesn't seem to be much difference in it, maybe 10mm.

Do you think I'm right ?

Your thoughts welcome.


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I assume they are James, they came with the Land Rover.

I'm sure the stub axles are correct since the have the groove for the locking tab rather than the flat of the later stub axle, it seems like the stub axle is too long.

I can't fit another thrust washer because the current one already fouls the taper where the stub axle diameter increases from the thread to the full diameter.

How much wider is the later hub across the bearings than the early example? Anyone know ?


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This is a series hub exploded assembly, but for my purpose it is effectively the same,

This is kind of to help me understand what you are saying before i see if i can help;


Obviously on this diagram the washer (part number(for series) 217352) is the washer you are talking about?

if yes, are you talking about putting 2 of in?

i can see it working fine, but personally i am not a fan of "making do" (i wont say botching, because i cant actually see a reason for this idea to cause a failiure of the wheelbearing)

if so, i wouldnt cut off the locating tab (its a locating flat on this diagram) because it may cause this to spin, creating friction between that and the one nect to it. possibly friction welding together, the torque then overcoming the other locating tabs on the other washers, and possibly welding itself to the adjustment nut, therefore turning that either up super tight and therefore locking, or completely loose and therefore wheel could fall off?

if not could you please explain it to me again because after all, i am a bit dim sometimes and most others will probably fully understand you.

i am interested to see what you are trying to get at.

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Probably looking for 5mm inside, James. Overall length seems OK since the half shaft / drive flange relationship is fine. Maybe perhaps the machining is incorrect ?

Mikey, thanks for your reply, Yup, that's the thrust washer and like you I don't want to use 2 of them simply because it won't work. The current single thrust washer is now fouling the machining run out of the groove on the stub axle. Even if I did cut the tab off of another thrust washer and use it as a packer it will then foul the step in diameter of the stub axle and still not allow the bearing to be tightened.

My next thought is to measure the width of the bearing in case I was supplied with an incorrect original.

Anyone know the correct width of a Timken wheel bearing ?


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From the photo I'd guess that was a wide stub axle. Is the bearing spacing on that one the same as yours Mo? As shown by the witness marks on the stub in that photo?

If the outer bearing on your hub does not come right to the edge of the thread step as shown there then you may have a thin hub rather than a thick one.

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All pics taken from another forum.

These are front Stub Axles.


Early Rears


One has a short thread on it.

Another comparison shot


Taken from Salisbury axle upgrade thread.

Unfortunately, the Discovery hubs don’t fit the Salisbury stub axles – the Discovery hubs have their bearings much closer together than a Series or early 90/110/Defender hub, and the Discovery stub axle is correspondingly shorter. While the Discovery hub will fit onto the Salisbury stub axle, the outer bearing sits too far inboard to be secured by the hub nuts and washers, so the hub slides up and down the stub axle. Furthermore, with the hub seated inward against the seal land, the outer end of the long stub axle holds the drive flange about 5mm off the hub.

Hope this is of use?


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I had the same problem, though it wasn't as much as 5mm, on my front left. I used a grinder to bevel the inside edge of the thrust washer so it wouldn't foul on the taper of the stub axle. Problem solved.

Regards, Diff.

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