highlandmist Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 1993 Defender 90 200 TDi After getting through the winter with no problems, the Defender presented me with one today. Whilst driving at around 50mph and after hitting a dip in the road I noticed a wobble on the steering. On the way back at the same point in the road there was a more noticeable shudder. Inspection at home revealed this. Its on the passenger side. Appears to be snapped all along the top and down the right hand side, but as I have not yet managed to research what it looks like all cleaned up I'm not sure yet. Question is, whether to 1. clean it up and weld in situ or 2. remove axle and total repair, 3. Remove axle buy prefabbed replacement (if available) and weld ? By the way, what is it called ? Radius arm mount point ? I know this is one part but what's the bit on the left and how do they go together ? http://www.yrmlandrover.com/epages/BT3575.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT3575/Products/042AB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 I'd call it "Panhard-Rod Mounting" and - given that there's no original or alternative-source parts-kit available - it's probably easier/quicker to swap the entire axle than attempt a repair. Source the replacement axle sensibly and it will come with vented discs - always a worthwhile enhancement if you drive fast or tow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 New bracketcan be obtain from here http://www.yrmlandrover.com/epages/BT3575.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT3575/Products/042A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 The YRM parts are generally better quality than the originals. If you have the facilities, replacing the bracket with one of theirs will give you a better axle. I wouldn't just weld up the old one as, if it has fatigued in one place, chances are there are others waiting to fracture. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highlandmist Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 Thanks, people.It is indeed the radius arm bracket that's split along with the bump stop bracket ( the bit to the left ) I am able to weld up a new bracket. I think that one got a patch up last year on the right hand side, looks like the bump stop bracket took one bump too many. I think I might be as well to order the item that has the bum stop, radius arm and panhard bracket all together. Only thing is there's two options. 47mm and 54mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Measure the width of your radius arm. Hth Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highlandmist Posted March 28, 2014 Author Share Posted March 28, 2014 In trouble now. After measuring I decided I had the 47mm radius arm so ordered, received and painted parts. Off work again now and further research suggests I have the wider ones ! Chassis number LA933484. Remeasuring the actual mount and it's about 52mm but maybe pulled in a bit by the bolt tension. ? Going to have to bite the bullet and order the thicker ones now ! Should have spent more time checking instead of rushing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 As an old Chippy once said to me "measure twice cut once!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highlandmist Posted March 29, 2014 Author Share Posted March 29, 2014 In this case i shoudnt have measured at all, just went with the chassis number! May not be so bad though. I realised that the correct fit is achieved by placing the spacers on either the inside or outside of the bracket. They are held in place by two small welds. After consulting with YRM they confirmed this. I should be able to get them off. Yeehah. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 i would be tempted to take a look into weld termination fatigue and the Y termination for welding the new bracket back on, although I work mainly with plant equipment and its most likely completely unneccesary for welding on these brackets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highlandmist Posted April 17, 2014 Author Share Posted April 17, 2014 Discomikey can you explain a bit more about them maybe not needed to be welded on. Do you mean bracket to axle or just those spacers to bracket. Anyhoo, this project has been a bit of a nightmare from the start. The initial wrong size of radius arm mount was easily sorted with grinder and welder. Then when I went to fit up I discovered that they had sent out an offside spring mount instead of nearside. They sent out a new one. Then I fitted up by bolting everything in place. However I did not have the 14mm Panhard bolts yet so used one I had previously cut off. BIG MISTAKE ! These bolts did not now reach right through to the fixing point resulting in a slight bend (rotation), which in turn tilted the position of the radius arm mount forward. Thinking all was fine I tacked up then removed the radius arm and panhard rod for access. Welded everything up. Tried to put the bolts back in and they would not line up, even though I had both new radius arm bolts in, only one of them and the nearside panhard one would now fit !! So what I thought was a time consuming but accurate job was a balls up ! New mounts ordered another evening of cutting off, a morning dismantling and afternoon welding beckons This time I will leave the bloody thing bolted together ! Good thing I like working on the Land Rover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 I think we've all done something similar Mo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 What i meant that it would probably be unneccesary to terminate the welds in the Y configuration. its used to spread the stress from the end of a weld across a larger area rather than a single stop point. i use it often on plant machinery and would have been tempted to do the same on the axle although just a standard weld came out the factory so the same should suffice here! The amount of projects i have been so careful and accurate about only to have one small mistake put the whole thing out of whack. it happens to everyone sooner or later! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highlandmist Posted April 18, 2014 Author Share Posted April 18, 2014 This is what I did, but only got as far as one bolt on the radius arm and one on the Panhard rod. I just bought an auto darkening mask to cheer myself up It's been driving me mad getting into an awkward position all ready then loosing the start point because you have to flip the glass down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted April 19, 2014 Share Posted April 19, 2014 I realised that the correct fit is achieved by placing the spacers on either the inside or outside of the bracket. They are held in place by two small welds. After consulting with YRM they confirmed this. Is this the case with the OE, factory fit brackets? Or just YRM ones? It would save me a lot of hassle if I can fit wide arms to my early 90 axle just be removing a couple of spacers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 I just bought an auto darkening mask to cheer myself up It's been driving me mad getting into an awkward position all ready then loosing the start point because you have to flip the glass down. you will never look back! one of those things where you dont know how you coped without before you had one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meatslicer Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 Only problem I have with the autodarkening helmet is the darn thing keeps blackening when Im moving my head into position. Any small bump like getting under the rear tub which is up on a winch to weld up the rear crossmember, seems to act like a spark flash and darkens it. Otherwise its a must. Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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