defender dinky Posted April 30, 2014 Share Posted April 30, 2014 hi, I recently bought a 110 1991 ex mod rolling chassis, all paper work vin plates ect, stripped it all down and sand blasted, pick up tomorrow, and having it galvanised, question is, is there a nut&bolt kit I can buy to put it back together, that's all the brackets aswell everything on the chassis, and stub axles brake calipers or do I buy everything separately, dd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted April 30, 2014 Share Posted April 30, 2014 There is a company who sells bolt kits for land rovers, memory fails me at this time of night, but I have a feeling its Wrights? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 Here we are LR Fasteners 01204 302589 I have a very good fastener company near me, Teesside Industrial Fasteners. Maybe you can find a company local to you you can nip in to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
101sean Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 LR Fasteners will do all the correct bolts with the correct finishes for the body but will be very spendy unless you're an originalist. Majority will be M6 and M8 in various lengths, just get a bg supply in off ebay or a fastener specialist. Don't use stainless for anything structural. For things like the hubs, calipers and anything mechanical or suspension, buy the the correct bolts as many will be stronger than the standard 8.8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 Prior to the rebuild, I popped into the local Screwfix and bought BZP M6 and M8 bolts, nuts and washers in various lengths and that covered most things with plenty left over. Don't forget plenty of copper-slip also, it will be much easier next time you come to undo things. As has been said, use the proper bolts for anything safety critical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 I have a few brackets and bits&bobs I had galvanised when I rebuilt my 110 but ended up not using (due to a redesigned seatbox set up). I can dig them out if you are interested. Not doing anything here so pay the postage or collect and they are yours. Photo on request 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 (edited) On my 110 chassis change, I got a stainless bolt kit from stig fasteners, great service & a great kit, all correctly rated for the job. this is the bolt kit I used http://www.a2stainless.co.uk/Land-Rover-Defender-110-Chassis-Bolt-Kit_AJ5PM.aspx?nh=2 Edited May 2, 2014 by western link added Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defender dinky Posted May 1, 2014 Author Share Posted May 1, 2014 orgasmic farmer, you have post, and thanks for your replies, would these help, off ebay item number 400687846392, cheers dd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 You won't have much call for UNF on your defender that'll be metric for almost everything. To be honest, I'm surprised anybody bothers using imperial bolts for the bodywork any more, metric is so much cheaper, especially since BSF is now being phased out and much harder to get. The only need for imperial now is Series engines and gearboxes, and a few odd bits like drive flange bolts - mostly stuff that goes in to old tapped holes. Even my Series 3 Salsibury axle is metric. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defender dinky Posted May 1, 2014 Author Share Posted May 1, 2014 ok I won't bother thks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 When I rebuilt my 90 onto a new galv'd chassis, I went to my local nut and bolt place and bought a load of M8 and M6 nuts(Nyloc's) bolts and washers, I'd already gone down the route of getting a quote over the phone from LR fasteners and really should've sat down before he told me the price, as much as they would've been spot on, the cost of going to my nut and bolt place was considerably less than LR fasteners hth John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 I found toolstation to be even cheaper than screwfix for bulk packs of of 8.8 nuts/bolts and washers. They tend to have a better selection too. The stainless vs bzp issue I researched at great detail...if the original bolts lasted almost 30yrs with no cleaning or wax protection/greasing then I hope the new ones will last the same! For critical bolts such as suspension/braking and transmission I sourced the OE bolts from my local 4x4 specialist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landowner Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 I went down to my local hardware / tool shop (man in a brown coat with pencil behind his ear) and bought 40 M8 nuts and bolts to start rebuilding my chassis. I didn't use copperslip or grease when I put them on , will I get corrosion if I don't use a barrier of some sort between galv and mild steel washers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 Looking into the chemistry of disimilar metals, I found that the advice was to stay away from copper (albeit suspended in grease) when using in connection with aluminium or galvanised steel as the further the metals are apart the faster the corrosion process occurs. I have a zinc-oxide based anti seize compound that I plan to use where the bzp fittings are fixed to the alloy panels. My chassis bolts are all dry fitted against as there are no disimilar metals as I have galvanised brackets throughout. The compound is primarily for the marine industry but it's worth a try. As I said, the original bolts I assume we're fitted dry and although they corroded the bolts were still holding together after 25years of neglect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 Better clarify...when I say the "further the metals are apart" I mean in the galvanic series....not distance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 Looking into the chemistry of disimilar metals, I found that the advice was to stay away from copper (albeit suspended in grease) when using in connection with aluminium or galvanised steel as the further the metals are apart the faster the corrosion process occurs. I have a zinc-oxide based anti seize compound that I plan to use where the bzp fittings are fixed to the alloy panels. My chassis bolts are all dry fitted against as there are no disimilar metals as I have galvanised brackets throughout. The compound is primarily for the marine industry but it's worth a try. As I said, the original bolts I assume we're fitted dry and although they corroded the bolts were still holding together after 25years of neglect. Good theory. Now how about in practice ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 I have used new bzp fixings wherever I have removed OE fixings when doing my bulkhead swap and replacing suspension components. They probably won't last quite as well as the OE fixings as the modern bzp coating is not as corrosion resistant as that which was used in the 80's ( and up to mid 2000's) due to the partial ban of hexavalent chromium (sp?) However it's better than reusing the old fixings and I'll probably need to undo any fixings I've fitted long before they begin to seize or deteriorate heavily, at which point I can replace them again. Having used stainless fixings when I was shop floor based at work I try to avoid using them on my own vehicle. There are too many issues will them seizing and galling up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 Good theory. Now how about in practice ? I'll let you know in 30yrs Joking aside, if it's for the marine industry, designed not to washout and be resistant to salt water then it "should" do its job adequately on a Land Rover chassis....... Hopefully Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 Well last week we took the SS nuts off the SS screws tat hold two parts of the aluminium sheets that make the rear wheel mud flap holder. The nuts came off very easily. Not bad for something that's been on for ten years.. For normal bolts. I copper grease the shank and use Loctite sealant on the threads. For screws I just use sealant on the threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.