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hi, I recently bought a 110 1991 ex mod rolling chassis, all paper work vin plates ect, stripped it all down and sand blasted, pick up tomorrow, and having it galvanised, question is, is there a nut&bolt kit I can buy to put it back together, that's all the brackets aswell everything on the chassis, and stub axles brake calipers or do I buy everything separately, dd

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LR Fasteners will do all the correct bolts with the correct finishes for the body but will be very spendy unless you're an originalist. Majority will be M6 and M8 in various lengths, just get a bg supply in off ebay or a fastener specialist. Don't use stainless for anything structural.

For things like the hubs, calipers and anything mechanical or suspension, buy the the correct bolts as many will be stronger than the standard 8.8

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Prior to the rebuild, I popped into the local Screwfix and bought BZP M6 and M8 bolts, nuts and washers in various lengths and that covered most things with plenty left over. Don't forget plenty of copper-slip also, it will be much easier next time you come to undo things.

As has been said, use the proper bolts for anything safety critical.

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I have a few brackets and bits&bobs I had galvanised when I rebuilt my 110 but ended up not using (due to a redesigned seatbox set up). I can dig them out if you are interested. Not doing anything here so pay the postage or collect and they are yours. Photo on request

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You won't have much call for UNF on your defender that'll be metric for almost everything.

To be honest, I'm surprised anybody bothers using imperial bolts for the bodywork any more, metric is so much cheaper, especially since BSF is now being phased out and much harder to get. The only need for imperial now is Series engines and gearboxes, and a few odd bits like drive flange bolts - mostly stuff that goes in to old tapped holes. Even my Series 3 Salsibury axle is metric.

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When I rebuilt my 90 onto a new galv'd chassis, I went to my local nut and bolt place and bought a load of M8 and M6 nuts(Nyloc's) bolts and washers, I'd already gone down the route of getting a quote over the phone from LR fasteners and really should've sat down before he told me the price, as much as they would've been spot on, the cost of going to my nut and bolt place was considerably less than LR fasteners

hth

John

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I found toolstation to be even cheaper than screwfix for bulk packs of of 8.8 nuts/bolts and washers. They tend to have a better selection too. The stainless vs bzp issue I researched at great detail...if the original bolts lasted almost 30yrs with no cleaning or wax protection/greasing then I hope the new ones will last the same!

For critical bolts such as suspension/braking and transmission I sourced the OE bolts from my local 4x4 specialist.

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I went down to my local hardware / tool shop (man in a brown coat with pencil behind his ear) and bought 40 M8 nuts and bolts to start rebuilding my chassis.

I didn't use copperslip or grease when I put them on , will I get corrosion if I don't use a barrier of some sort between galv and mild steel washers?

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Looking into the chemistry of disimilar metals, I found that the advice was to stay away from copper (albeit suspended in grease) when using in connection with aluminium or galvanised steel as the further the metals are apart the faster the corrosion process occurs. I have a zinc-oxide based anti seize compound that I plan to use where the bzp fittings are fixed to the alloy panels. My chassis bolts are all dry fitted against as there are no disimilar metals as I have galvanised brackets throughout.

The compound is primarily for the marine industry but it's worth a try. As I said, the original bolts I assume we're fitted dry and although they corroded the bolts were still holding together after 25years of neglect.

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Looking into the chemistry of disimilar metals, I found that the advice was to stay away from copper (albeit suspended in grease) when using in connection with aluminium or galvanised steel as the further the metals are apart the faster the corrosion process occurs. I have a zinc-oxide based anti seize compound that I plan to use where the bzp fittings are fixed to the alloy panels. My chassis bolts are all dry fitted against as there are no disimilar metals as I have galvanised brackets throughout.

The compound is primarily for the marine industry but it's worth a try. As I said, the original bolts I assume we're fitted dry and although they corroded the bolts were still holding together after 25years of neglect.

Good theory.

Now how about in practice ?

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I have used new bzp fixings wherever I have removed OE fixings when doing my bulkhead swap and replacing suspension components.

They probably won't last quite as well as the OE fixings as the modern bzp coating is not as corrosion resistant as that which was used in the 80's ( and up to mid 2000's) due to the partial ban of hexavalent chromium (sp?)

However it's better than reusing the old fixings and I'll probably need to undo any fixings I've fitted long before they begin to seize or deteriorate heavily, at which point I can replace them again.

Having used stainless fixings when I was shop floor based at work I try to avoid using them on my own vehicle. There are too many issues will them seizing and galling up

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Good theory.

Now how about in practice ?

I'll let you know in 30yrs :)

Joking aside, if it's for the marine industry, designed not to washout and be resistant to salt water then it "should" do its job adequately on a Land Rover chassis.......

Hopefully

:);)

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Well last week we took the SS nuts off the SS screws tat hold two parts of the aluminium sheets that make the rear wheel mud flap holder.

The nuts came off very easily. Not bad for something that's been on for ten years..

For normal bolts. I copper grease the shank and use Loctite sealant on the threads. For screws I just use sealant on the threads.

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