Rangie46 Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 Guys hope you can help on this one as it has me and Nigel stumped, Ecu is back with Nigel and we are hoping it can be repaired, we have gone through my connections and they all come up correct, I have triple checked my wiring against the diagram and all is correct, we first suspected I had wired the fuel pump relay wrong but we have checked this and all is correct, so I pulled all the connectors of engine and started testing for shorts using the diode test on my tester, everything comes up ok except, when I test the plugs to the coil packs, I get resistance from the white/ purple wire to the brown/white, brown/orange, brown/green and brown/ black then if I remove the edis earth wire from its ground the resistance goes away here's a pic showing the resistance, should we be getting resistance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 Diode test is not resistance test. The transistors and/or protection diodes in the EDIS may well show up in that manner on diode test, especially with reference to the EDIS 12v / GND line. If your ECU exploded / let smoke out then there's either some wiring issue or the ECU had a fault / faulty component, they are quite robust usually. Did it explode first time you gave it 12v, did it work for a while, did it do anything odd, did it fail when you connected a new bit...? Do you have a relay board? PWM idle valve? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangie46 Posted May 20, 2014 Author Share Posted May 20, 2014 cheers ff was using the diode test to check for shorts but tbh not sure if that is the correct way, is there a better way? ecu started smoking as soon as i tuned on the ign but fuel pump came on then went off, so i tuned off ign and unplugged the connector from ecu, then called nige I don't have pwm valve or a relay board, using the relay blocks that come in the kit, i have wired the connector for pwm but not connected the ign live for it as I dont have one yet, nigel went over the connections with me on the phone and they are correct, today I have cut off the ecu connector as this was a bit fiddly to solder, and going to resolder a new one using a big magnifying glass, as a friend told me It could have been something simple like a bit of wire strand from wire striping getting stuck on the pins or a bit of solder, had a look but cant see anything but suppose best to be safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted May 20, 2014 Share Posted May 20, 2014 If you are looking for shorts then all the connectors need to be un plugged as you are getting internal connections in the EDISwhich will confuse matters. I don't envy you the task as there is a lot of connections possibilities to check and to earth as well. Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 When mine went pop the easiest way I found to locate the fault was to follow the build manual as each stage has tests to do. A bit tedious but it worked! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 Photos: - Of your wiring (esp. the connector) - Undo the top two screws either end of the ECU case, lift the lid & take a decent close-up photo of the PCB, especially anything that looks burnt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted May 21, 2014 Share Posted May 21, 2014 Photos: - Of your wiring (esp. the connector) - Undo the top two screws either end of the ECU case, lift the lid & take a decent close-up photo of the PCB, especially anything that looks burnt Was just going to suggest the same, by seeing what has failed in the ECU it will help locate where the possible external fault is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangie46 Posted May 21, 2014 Author Share Posted May 21, 2014 Cheers guys ecu is back with Nigel so can't get any pics of it, hopefully they will be able to figure out what blew, that should tell us where the fault was, I will try and get a pic of the dsub connector, I cut this off yesterday as I have a feeling that was the fault area as it was really tight getting the connector cover on and I have a new one to fit ,Nige sent me the diagnostics doc yesterday and all my wirring is coming up with the correct voltages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangie46 Posted May 21, 2014 Author Share Posted May 21, 2014 Righty o some pics of the loom Dsub that I cut off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangie46 Posted May 22, 2014 Author Share Posted May 22, 2014 Been going thru everything as it's been doing me nut in as I can't seam to find anything wrong, but today I found I had forgot to attach the engine to chassis earth strap could this have caused my problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 If that means it tried earthing through the ECU... quite possibly. But normally there's a few other earth paths available, so I doubt it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 22, 2014 Share Posted May 22, 2014 If you mean the ECU was trying to run effectively without its main earth return, then yes that could do it, especially if the EDIS was equally "unearthed". I'm not entirely sure I can work out the route the magic smoke would try to escape through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangie46 Posted May 23, 2014 Author Share Posted May 23, 2014 Only engine earth strap was forgot, edis, fp, lambada heater earth all go back to batt neg, ecu has 4 earths going back to batt neg and all sensor earths go back to ecu, just tested edis powered up using Nigel's diagnostic sheet and that's coming out. Fine so I can rule that out, this is proper driving me dolally tap, was hoping to find something a miss so I could say to myself there you go you thwack that's where you have gone wrong, but can't seam to find anything, one thing I have come across is on the diagram pin 3 from edis (pink wire) saw goes to pin 36 at ecu but on other diagrams on t interweb pin 3 goes to pin 30 at ecu but i soppose that dosent matter as the edis receives a 5v from ecu on saw I'm sure once Nige finds out what I fryed on the ecu that will tell us where the fault is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 23, 2014 Share Posted May 23, 2014 The EDIS-to-ECU wiring is dependent on who did the modifications to the ECU and which pin they wire it to. if it's an ECU from Nige you must follow Nige's diagram. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangie46 Posted May 23, 2014 Author Share Posted May 23, 2014 Cheers ff i did follow Nigel's diagram, I just noticed the difference on diagrams when searching the web, think I'm going to finish off egg sauce now while I wait for Nige to come back with what blew in the ecu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Well..... Whilst waiting for the ECU Guru to give his report back (prob Tuesday Next week), I did take a peek at the carnage and some pics. Heres are a couple, There is defo a smokey smell upon opening, something is defo cripsytoasty at 115 on the board area - this is ABSOLUTELY NOT my skill set so need a grown up to identify both What it is thats cooked What might have caused it ? and hopefully fix it So, vultures circle away Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Looks loike a capacitor given the PCB marking? Is that not part of the serial interface circuit going by the other parts nearby? C16,C17 399-1420-ND or 399-3584-ND 2.60 Basic Components Capacitor TANT 22µF 25V 10% RAD Though it might be connected to the regulator IC on the heatsink? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 If I understand the schematics correctly, and that's C26, it's connected purely to the MAX232CPE chip that does the serial communication. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Don't capacitors have a tendency to die when over volted? What other causes are there?, looks like a tantalum bead capacitor to me. EDIT: Anyone got a link to the circuit diagrams? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 C16 is a tantulum capacitor, on the high voltage side of the 5V regulator circuit. Tantalum caps most common failure mode is to become a short circuit, so they tend to fail spectacularly. 25V isn't really a high enough rating in that application, 35V or 50V would be better. High voltage spikes can cause failure (doesn't have to be much higher than rated voltage) or... I hesitate to suggest.... some numpty soldered it in back to front - it WILL fail, but not always straight away. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Here: http://www.bgsoflex.com/v1/v1.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Cheers Elbekko It seems it's a MS1 V3 board so the following layout is the correct one. and Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Ah that was the circiut diagram I was looking for. I also wondered about cap in backwards? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 So input voltage was higher than the cap was rated for, or it was in backwards? (apparently I was looking at the wrong diagram in my earlier comment) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 There is a 22v zener diode across that capacitor so I'm guessing it's more likely then that it was reversed? or possibly the diode is also dead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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