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OH BUGGER


JeffR

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Been having clutch problems (hydraulic) so set about replacing the slave cylinder and damper, no problems I hear you say. Gets it all re-assembled and bled , even managed NOT to pull the plastic tw@t of a clip off the clutch fork. Proper job thinks I.

WRONG WRONG WRONG

Selects first and all is great pedal feel nice, I'm a happy bunny , decided to take it for a run (well, go for a pint) and FCKIN bang pedal goes to the floor.

OOPS

Takes off new slave cylinder and low and behold the push rod has gone through the bloody clutch fork.....................................

So currently sat waiting for the monsoon (thank you MET Office, your new super computer does not work - supposed to be fine weather today) to abate so I can take the bloody engine out, still it means the rear crank oil seal will get done.

This vehicle hates me.

It's mutual.

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Also waiting for a mate to fetch some scaffolding boards - engine crane + gravel drive = recipe for disaster. Add to that I'm doing this single handedly and....... Wonder what A&E have on the menu for tonights supper?

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It was turkey sandwich for lunch. Currently shuttling between A&E and home as the missus is in with a virus. Workshop floor on hold. Good news is missus DOESN'T want to talk.

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Yeah, well finding out that the fffing RCD thingy doesn't trip and that the 240v extension reel is ffing potentially lethal during monsoon season (don't half make your hair stand on end, at least the palpitations have stopped) hasn't enamoured me to pulling out bloody landrover engines in November in Northumberland....

And as for the person of extremely doubtful parentage who decided to put the three top bell housing bolts behind the ffffing bulkhead on the Disco, well I sincerely hopes he rots in hell.

I was half hoping that the Lone Rangers and Tonto's who "maintained" this bloody vehicle in the past had not bothered fitting them, but no, the only fffing thing they did correctly was, no doubt they used a 1 inch windy gun to do em up as well........

Mike I would have preferred to drop the trans, but to do that I need to raise the vehicle and axle stands (haven't got any paving slabs to put them on) slowly sink into the gravel - go on ask me how I found that one out, I dare you. also as I need to do the rear crank oil seal and timing belt and sort the leaks from the oil filter housing and sump....... Engine out seemed simpler. In theory.

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easiest way to get the top 3 bolts is to disconnect the props take the gearbox xmember out, undo the engine mounts and lower the whole lot. that allows you to undo the top 3 bolts from inside the cab. mind that you dont break the heater matrix hose fittings. go on, ask how i know..

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easiest way to get the top 3 bolts is to disconnect the props take the gearbox xmember out, undo the engine mounts and lower the whole lot. that allows you to undo the top 3 bolts from inside the cab. mind that you dont break the heater matrix hose fittings. go on, ask how i know..

Did you know if you don't take the props off..... ask me how I know that one, guess what I'm doing tomorrow!

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The main advantage with trans out is the above mentioned 3 bolts can be accessed easier by lowering the transfer and tilting the engine back. There still a pig but you can get a socket and long extension along the top of the gearbox. I must admit I just drop the boxes on the floor in one and either roll the car forward a bit (engine held up on a ratchet strap) or drag it back enough to get in there.

Mike

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when i swapped an R380 for a mate i was dreading the top 3 bellhousing bolts but to be honest i didnt think they were that bad in the end. din't know what all the fuss was about hehe. although i did use a million wobbly extensions and had dropped the transmission down to tilt it back.

and i was under the ramp of course :)

to be honest though a navara is much worse!

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