ejparrott Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 Where in the world are you? Try a local engine rebuilder. If you're anywhere near Rugby, Wards will sell you 1..or 2...or 3... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted January 22, 2015 Author Share Posted January 22, 2015 I live in Warrington nr Cheshire. Managed to find landrover parts place about 25 to 30 min away who will sell me one for £2 includes vat genuine landrover too. Ordered loctite and flexible magnetic rod with a light on so less than £15 everything. Should have everything early next week. Valve stem caps arrived today and rocker due tomorrow so that's Mondays job. Hopefully I can crack on Tuesday Wednesday finding my debris. All being well back on road Thursday or is that temping fate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 Call it Friday...took me 2 days to sort mine out in the end, by the time I'd got wings and manifolds off and back on again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 when you've got the magnetic pickup tool give it a poke down the hole you lost the bit of dowl down before you take out the core plug. you may find it without going to all that trouble.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted January 22, 2015 Share Posted January 22, 2015 Yep, that was the intention of my suggestion, clearly got a missed in translation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted January 23, 2015 Author Share Posted January 23, 2015 Sadly guy's I don't have access to the original hole anymore. I have since fitted the cylinder head,too keen to get everything back together now committed to access via core plug. Don't think inspection tool I have bought would have gone down that hole anyway head with magnet to big. On plus side exhaust manifold still off so some time saved there and its the front plug so may not need wing off to remove it. Refit of new plug may be another question ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 You should be ok, your inner wings being different to kine afford you more space. You need need to get on it square, and you do need room to swing a small hammer - they don't just drop in...or they shouldn't! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Core plugs, or to use the correct term Welsh Plugs are not for preventive engine freezing. When an engine block is cast, the casting mould box is in two halves, it is fitted internally with a wooden mould and with sand which is packed in and then injected with carbon dioxide to "calcify" it into a form of sand-stone, the two halves of the wooden mould are then removed, the two mould box halves clamped together and the molten metal poured into the mould. The calcified sand positioned within the mould forms the waterways, oil passages, camshaft and cylinder bores. The "external" sand forms the exterior of the engine block. Once the block has been cast and cooled down the sand is removed and from the waterways it is air blasted out through these 5 external ports. During the machining process they are machined and on assembly welsh plugs are fitted. If, like I did when I rebuilt my engine, you have your engine block chemically cleaned you can expect to get anything of up to half a tea cup of residual casting sand to come out of the block. This is quite normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 You have possibly fitted the welsh plugs by now so this blurb is possibly irrelevant however there are three types of Welsh Plug. The first is a "flat" plug, this is convex, you fit it in the bore, hit the centre and it is forced to swell out and seal the bore. Type two is a flat cupped plug (fitted as OE t 300Tdi's) this, if you measure it has a cup lip which is wider on the outer face of the lip, this is, as explained above pressed into the bore. Type three has, like type 1, a dished face and almost parallel dish edges, this type is inserted edges of the cup first and like type 1 sealed by tapping the face flat to force the cup to seal. You can use genuine LR parts but a well plated (cadmium) plug is as good as any other, so long as it's the right size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 As I explained previously, the dowel wont get past the thermostat, don't worry about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 Indeed it won't, mainly because it's already below the thermostat and coolant flow will not make it go upwards ( gravity is your friend). The worst scenario is that it might slightly damage the vanes on your water pump as it passes through (it's highly unlikely that it will jam it). It's entirely possible that it will end up in the bottom of your radiator and just stay there forever. The chance of it doing serious damage to your engine is almost non-exisitent. If you can't remove it with reasonable effort, then forget it. A set of core plugs is relatively cheap, and as you rely on your truck so much - then pay the price. You might be wasting it, as there's no guarantee that you'll still be able to remove the dowel piece. I suggest you just drive it and forget about it and ignore the multiple anal posts in this thread :) Les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted January 24, 2015 Share Posted January 24, 2015 As Les said, and as I previously explained, it wont get past the thermostat. The coolant flow is from the engine block up into the cylinder head and then via the thermostat into the top section of the cross flow radiator, from the bottom section of the radiator it is pump assisted back into the engine block (and the heater), if it cannot get past the thermostat there is no way possible for it to get into the water pump. Forget about it and just enjoy driving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted January 26, 2015 Author Share Posted January 26, 2015 First chance to get back on forum beem working. Good news rocker back on tappet adjust complete. Managed to get core disc out no sign of metal though. Poked about with magnetic snake nothing. Even got fingers inside for a rumage nothing. There appears to be a chamber that protrudes from the block may be lodged in there. Picking up core plug tomorrow will give it one last try if no luck i will just forget about it as per advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Can you take the thermostat-housing off, remove the thermotwat then try blasting water in through the hole, to try and back-flush the dowel out through the core-plug hole? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Do NOT use new genuine valve stem caps!!! They are made from cheese and will vanish in short order. You MUST get aftermarket hardened caps. Many people have found this out the hard way. http://www.turnerengineering.co.uk/acatalog/info_278.html (NOT current Land Rover caps as they are incorrect material specificaiton). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted January 26, 2015 Author Share Posted January 26, 2015 I am fairly certain they are not genuine parts they said bermach on package. Don't know if they are harder than genuine. Maybe thats what where in last time and why 3 wore to a ring instead of a cap ! As for the dowel section I am going to fish around again tomorrow with some wire if I don't find it l am just going to fit the core disc refit the exhaust manifold and fill up with water job done forget about it as I've been advised by my learned peers. Still annoying me though knowing its there. Could try flushing from thermostat housing see how I feel tomorrow could pick up a gasket while collecting the core plug. Thanks again everyone for your comments and advice its given me peace of mind and cofidence to crack on. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 You can't do the mysterious no name brand ones either. Hardened ones are fortunately common as they are the same size as air cooled VWs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted January 26, 2015 Author Share Posted January 26, 2015 Thought Bearmach was a reputable source for aftermarket parts. Only time will tell may as well keep hold of my old rocker shaft and replace the damaged rockers just in case :-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 Bearmach parts are good quality. I used them for many years. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 I usually use Bearmach Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSD Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 Core plugs, or to use the correct term Welsh Plugs To use the correct term, it would be Welch plug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 Red90 is right about the Genuine valve caps being soft, the only ones that are reputed to last any length of time are the ones that Turner engineering have sourced, they are correctly hardened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 I got a set from Turners recently that were quite different from the set that came off. The ones fitted to the car were polished shiny steel and looked fine (except for the one that had punched through), the new ones were almost ceramic in nature. Anyway they went on a little while ago and I re-checked the clearances last week 12,000 miles on without finding any issues. They come from the Brazilian company that does the 2.8 version of the 300Tdi. But as above I believe any 8mm valve cap (lash cap the yanks call them) would probably suit if it was within spec in terms of depth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boydie Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 My apologies to TSD, he/she is quite correct, my spelling was deplorable, the term is Welch not Welsh, the latter being people with odd accents who live in hills to the west of merry old England. I really must have words with Microsoft and modify my auto spell checker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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