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110 fuel tank swap & part number


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Hi,

I've got a leaking fuel tank, looks to be coming from the top somewhere as it only happens when I fill the truck right up.

Has anyone had the diesel tank off of a 200tdi 110? is it all done from underneath? any tips to make this go smoothly? should I change the filler neck while I am there.

Can any one give me the part number for the correct tank please.

Thanks Mark

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http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=94260

read the info in the post for part numbers etc, note my comments on the diesel leak. My new tank has a leak if i fill it all the way up to the neck. Yours could be this, or a perished rubber filler hose or return pipe?

The 110 tanks usually go from the base through corrosion so unlikely it's the tank if only leaks when you brim it.

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Mine was(is) leaking from the top fuel take-off on my 300 110 CSW. Only happens when I top right up or to first click in hot weather.

Tank is starting to corrode around the seam so intend to replace over the summer, before I'm forced to with snow and ice on the ground.

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to remove a 110 tank [pre td5] drain any fuel contents & store for re-use, disconnect all the pipes to tank & filler neck hose, disconnect & remove the gauge sender unit, support tank with trolley jack & have a extra set of hands on standby, remove the tank attaching bolts/nuts, lower tank from chassis.

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Leaks from the top on new tanks when brimmed will almost certainly be the threaded inserts used in the tank . Non-genuine tanks use an open insert

whereas the genuine one is blanked , when brimmed fuel creeps up the threads and out around the screw head. Fixable with a decent fibre washer under each

screw.

Leaks from the top of old tanks may be the steel diesel return pipe in the top of the tank rusted out

cheers

Steveb

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Leaks from the top on new tanks when brimmed will almost certainly be the threaded inserts used in the tank . Non-genuine tanks use an open insert

whereas the genuine one is blanked , when brimmed fuel creeps up the threads and out around the screw head. Fixable with a decent fibre washer under each

screw.

Leaks from the top of old tanks may be the steel diesel return pipe in the top of the tank rusted out

cheers

Steveb

It is also important to ue the correct length screws in the gen version , as they can bottom out before clamping correctly :)

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Most tanks these days only come in primer, make sure you give it a couple of coats of a good chassis paint or it will rust like buggery. Also be very careful putting the sender unit in, the Britpart tank I was forced to fit (only one I could get at short notice) had a baffle that jammed the sender float.....

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