Pollywog Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 Looking good, how much of a notch have you had to take out of the crossmember to mount the box so low? With the box low like that do you have much room between the bellhousing / flywheel housing and the crossmember? Prop companies seem few and far between now, might be worth a call to see if the guys I used do a mail order service. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 Prop companies seem few and far between now, might be worth a call to see if the guys I used do a mail order service. So true and expensive. I found this co, that makes propshafts for Land Rovers: http://www.kaysuppliescomponents.com/Vehicle-Components-Holmes-Chapel-Cheshire.html Priced at £165 each Here is their eBay add: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Landrover-Defender-Extreme-Wide-Angle-Propshafts-Front-and-rear-165-each-Shaft-/291495240251? HTH. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 Thought i had a picture of it, apparently not. i shaved out a scallop about half the width of it (back to front) and about 3/4 of the depth of it on the back side, i had to do this as i am running transit engine mounts up front, and these raise the flywheel housing in relation to the bulkhead, i lowered the rear mounts to regain that clearance. Im hopefully popping to a mate's today to use his lathe and (decent) welder to shorten the prop i currently have, this is because i need to get going with it and MOT'd asap. then get one balanced properly soon thereafter. (i need it to lend to a mate while i have his truck in for a whole host of repairs!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 This is great, Mikey. In an ideal world, I'd like to fit an LT77 or stumpy R380 to my 109, preferably with a Borg Warner transfer box, so the same ratios you have but with permanent 4wd with no messin about with the yellow lever and no need for a difflock mechanism - I like the way it makes my RRC handle, especially on snowy roads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 Ideally i would have had a stumpy R380 for mine, but this project (prompted by the forked 4 speed) couldnt have come at a worse time money wise, however i am still trying to spend the money to do it right, darent look at my overdraft yet. Looks like my pegged diff is going to have to wait another couple of months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 28, 2015 Share Posted June 28, 2015 That's Rover ownership for you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted June 28, 2015 Author Share Posted June 28, 2015 good news everybody, IT LIVES speedo still doesn't work tho I went and borrowed my mates lathe and welder earlier to shorten my shaft, had to take 5 whole inches out of it! pictures soon when onedrive starts to behave! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 Top job Micky. You've done exactly what i've been plotting for The 109 which also has 77/230. The only difference is that I was looking at running a cross shaft and cranks for the yellow knob rather than changing it's lever on the 230 as you appear to have done. The conversion for the red knob is exactly what I planned! Just goes to show that an LT77 can be fitted into a Series tunnel. Few comments. I would not be counterboring the bottom bolts. Drill the bellhousing for the ladder frame bolts. I've got to do some engine work on The 109 as it's leaking oil, I did drill the bellhousing on the LT77, which means I can remove those four bolts and drop the ladder frame to re seal it. If I'd counterbored the holes, I'd have to be removing the engine or gearbox for just a minor job. It's a stupid method as far as I'm concerned, and I've thought that ever since I first saw it years ago. That LT230 kit you bought from Ashcrofts, is that just the kit for the 90/110 but without they FWH? Their wonderful website is stating on the kit that you can't buy just the bits, whilest listing just the bits!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted June 29, 2015 Author Share Posted June 29, 2015 Thats what i originally planned to do re the ladder bolts, but there were a couple of strengthening webs in the way. i did like how easy it was to pull the ladder out having it bolted through the bellhousing, but hey ho. with the yellow lever what do you mean cross shaft? in my mind i originally designed it to have a "cross shaft" attached to the lever, which would then push the diff lock lever, however this way seemed much simpler IMO. I used a 30mm socket and ball pein hammer to create a dome in the side of the tunnel where the reverse stop/spring assembly contacted it, there is now ~8mm clearance, that and the new lever hole is the only modifications i have had to do floorplan wise. Link for the LT230 part time kit minus FWH's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 I've modified my reverse stop, I've shortened it, slimmed it, and turned it upside down so it doesn't foul on the tunnel. The yellow knob is X" forward of the LT230 difflock crank, so I was going to drop a shaft in with a crank at one end to go to the bottom of the yellow knob, then another crank at the other end to go straight to the un-modified LT230 crank. What I thought on the kit, if you look at the other listing it says they don't sell the parts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted June 29, 2015 Author Share Posted June 29, 2015 I've modified my reverse stop, I've shortened it, slimmed it, and turned it upside down so it doesn't foul on the tunnel. Nice, never thought of that The yellow knob is X" forward of the LT230 difflock crank, so I was going to drop a shaft in with a crank at one end to go to the bottom of the yellow knob, then another crank at the other end to go straight to the un-modified LT230 crank. That sounds exactly what my original plan was. i just found it simpler to mount one crank and a pushrod than a cross shaft, plus i was missing the original diff lock cam lever, so i had to make my own one anyway What I thought on the kit, if you look at the other listing it says they don't sell the parts! Thats the one i ordered and it came just as that, maybe they didn't use to and haven't got round to updating the site? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted July 1, 2015 Author Share Posted July 1, 2015 its been up and running for a couple of days now, and i must say im surprised at how smooth this particuar LT77 is! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 I like the LT77, always have done, used to drive a 200 disco sometimes, the one that gave up it's engine for The 109. The one in The 109 is suffering from the usual output spline wear and the noise it makes is annoying but otherwise she seems to be perform well. LT230 would benefit from a rebuild when I do the 2wd/4wd conversion on it too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 Great write up and photo's. It is also good to see another SAT tyre hoarder! I pick up good ones when ever possible though I have not seen any for a year now! Marc. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted July 1, 2015 Author Share Posted July 1, 2015 They are for the series 2 when it is finished Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted July 6, 2015 Author Share Posted July 6, 2015 The final photo installment: All of the fabricated bracketry required to keep the original range levers: Fitting the selectable 2wd kit, following the thread from HFH (IIRC) its a doddle. Thanks! Fully fitted and in place: The handbrake linked up to the original series style cam and pull rod system with a slight modification to the cam (it needed narrowifying) and an extra link: Finally, I took my prop down to a mates where i used his lathe and welder to shorten it, here are the results: The above photo (lighting) makes it look as if there is a crater in the end of the weld, its more of a dimple, and due to the fact i didn't backstep on the end of the weld. not sure why, i always do as a habit normally. anyway. the loading this weld will experience is effectively a longitudinal shear loading, the likelyhood of any failure is slim to none. Tbh it was a better weld than what was there originally. The prop doesn't vibrate in the slightest even at 85 70 plus. One last finishing touch was to create a blanking plate to where the range lever normally fits on the top of the LT77, i could have used a flat plate from thicker stuff, but after seeing DeRanged's hammer forms i decided to have a go myself: Everything refitted, this is what it looks like now: done a good few miles on it now and the only issue i have is the fact i used diesel mounting rubbers (very hard rubber) i need to order some glencoyne ones to cut down on the vibration when cold at idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 Excellent work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 You mentioned Glencoyne engine mount rubbers Mikey , are they much better than std genuine ones ? I've got a 200tdi in the workshop that has had long term high freq. vibes - enough to make the rear view mirror almost useless. It had new gen mounts last year and I've just done the cambelt so I know all of the front end is good , sorry for the slight veer off topic , your lever solution is very neat btw cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted July 6, 2015 Author Share Posted July 6, 2015 Apparently they are much better than any others, Up front i have some ford transit (softer larger) engine rubbers, but theyre too tall for this job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 Thousands of Defenders out there running genuine mounts with 200Tdi engines without any issues, what makes it a problem here? Last time I changed a set for the first few days or few hundred miles there was a bit of vibration as the rubber 'settled in' but after that it's now fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Never had any vibration troubles with my 200tdi on genuine rubbers? New genuine 200tdi rubbers are what I'll be using on the merc lump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted July 7, 2015 Author Share Posted July 7, 2015 The ones i am using are series diesel rubbers, which are harder compound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted July 26, 2015 Share Posted July 26, 2015 I have SIII diesel mounts on my transmission. I tried Gen Parts 2.5 petrol/diesel/200Def mounts on my 200Tdi after fitting it, having found the SIII diesel mounts (which were fine with the 12J) transmitted an awful amount of vibration to the chassis. the Gen Parts mounts were far too hard, but the Bearmach 200Tdi mounts from glencoyne were vastly better. I still have some vibration, so the transmission will eventually get them too, if I dont fit a short LT77/ R380 and BW unit similar to this mod first. I think it's something to do with the harmonic frequencies oft he Series' chassis and transmission, givent hat the same mounts seem OK on Dfenders. The snag for a transmission swap is just the VIN points - PAS was more urgent, and I don't have the points left for a transmission swap unless I can convince them of the logic that a gradual change of spec still constitutes the same vehicle over an extended life span, rather than it being radically altered by swapping a lot at once. It's very tenuous logic that is unlikely to be accepted, though... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted July 26, 2015 Share Posted July 26, 2015 By the time you get round to it though Nick, who knows what the rules will be!! Another 4 years minimum before you come home to the land of perpetual rain??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pollywog Posted July 26, 2015 Share Posted July 26, 2015 I have (blue bag) genuine defender mounts on the 200tdi from paddocks and on the gearbox some cheap defender mounts that I picked up from the Malvern autojumble (guy with the fold out truck who sells a bit of army surplus). I can't fault either sets of rubbers. Any progress on the front prop arrangement yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.