Anderzander Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 I'm going to swap the drop arm over to a Disco one and wondered if anyone could share tips for removing it ? I did one before and really struggled to get it off - in the end I used a grinder to widen the slot and wedged it open with a small chisel. It was more effort than intellect though and I wonder if there is a better way ? I do have a small puller - but the arms won't sit well on the top of the drop arm, and I doubt it would be big enough anyway. Any help gratefully received. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 Mine needed a very hefty tractor-sized puller and my 1/2" drive windy gun. It took a fair bit of rattling to get it to shift. If you haven't got access to a puller of such size, the cutting method isn't too bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 Grinding a slot works but I ran out of cutting discs on a Sunday afternoon an had no choice, 5mm drill bit an a cold chisel to split it open, I used one of the limmiting collars as not to hit the splined shaft, not fun but needs must an all that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted September 15, 2015 Author Share Posted September 15, 2015 Which are the limiting collars Nige? It's damaging the shaft or splines that I'm worried about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve200TDi Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 Once the nut is off, I used a hydraulic puller. What works well is with tension on the hydraulic puller, give the drop arm a tap or wack and it may pop off. Goes without saying it will fly off when it goes, so just watch out! Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 Wilĺ post a pic when home but they have the same bore as the drill bit and are secured by a small grub screw, saved me messing up several things where the drill bit could (read as would in my case ) have done other damage had it gone too far!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davie Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 did mine with a cheap puller. soak with penetrating fluid day before. put puller on, wind up tight - tap arm few times with hammer, tap not belt! repeat slowly increasing tightness of puller half turn or so each time and it should come, took me half an hr like that. for love of god keep all body parts clear of area below it cause when mine hit floor it hit scary fast and would have hurt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pat_pending Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 for love of god keep all body parts clear of area below it cause when mine hit floor it hit scary fast and would have hurt. Leave the nut on half way, drop arm can only go 1/2 an inch or so then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted September 15, 2015 Author Share Posted September 15, 2015 Thanks everyone ! I've a set of sumo bars, with a damper relocation kit on their way to me - so hopefully I can have a go on Thursday this week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 Love my sumo bars . I didn't bother putting the damper back on in the end and suffered no ill effects. I'll probably put one on this time due to the tyre size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 I used a 10 ton bearing puller to great effect to remove mine, a bit of pressure applied then a judicious whack removed it with ease. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 First time I did it on my old 110 it took 3 pry bars jacked up on 3 bottle jacks like a Mercedes sign so the whole weight of the car was on it and beating it with a large hammer for 2 hours at which point it let go with an almighty bang, second time on my new 110 I just carefully slit it with a 1mm disc in a spiral shape to avoid the splines and it tapped off in 2 mins... I'd definitely recommend the disco conversion, just make sure you defo ordered the disco bars as obviously they're different lengths! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted September 16, 2015 Author Share Posted September 16, 2015 I just carefully slit it with a 1mm disc in a spiral shape to avoid the splines and it tapped off in 2 mins... Mike Could you explain that in more detail Mike ? I'm trying to imagine it - but thinking of you cut a spiral all around the outside, how would that avoid the splines ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotts90 Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 I imagine it's similar to cutting an olive (compression ring) off copper pipe. Cutting diagonally across the arm to give a greater cut area (hence weaker) then splitting with a chisel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 Yup just means you can accurately control the depth of the cut and get the disc most of the way round, if you went straight up you'd either cut the box or only cut 30% of the arm Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 To be honest, even if you nicked the splines, what difference will it make? 1 spline out of say 40 or so... no difference I would say Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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