Retroanaconda Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 Folks, This spring/summer I hope to build an undercover hardstanding area adjacent to one of my sheds. Mainly for storage of bits of car etc. at the moment. Plan is to lay a base and then build a timber roof/sides to keep the wind and rain off, with an open front. I need to bring in a mini digger to dig a trench for a permanent power supply to the workshop, so my hope was to excavate the area for my hardstanding down 6" or so to take the topsoil off. Then create a retaining edge with timber, lay a weed membrane in, and fill it with MOT type 1. Compacted with a whacker plate and hopefully job done. Would I require to put a second surfacing on top of the type 1? Just for storing parts as above or maybe parking a vehicle/trailer in the future, will it be fine for this purpose? I'm not too bothered about aesthetics really. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 Personally, if you're going to be building side, I would lay some shallow concrete footings, and put in 4" or 6" block where the walls are going to go, with their tops about 2" above where you want the hardstanding to be, then infill with MOT type 1. You'll have a durable edge to retain it all, and something solid to bolt the walls to, that will keep them out of any standing water. I wouldn't top the Type 1 with anything, just leave as is. But that's me, and I'm well known for over engineering everything! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 Sounds good, maybe ask for type 1 with a little more dust content to aid binding and sealing of the surface, you could always sprinkle cement dust on as your wackering but this will crack under pressure points, usually good for a vehicle but not for say an engine crane. Also make sure it's limestone not sandstone. Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrover598 Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 Why not use road scalpings and lay/compact on a nice warm day, that should give you a nice solid surface. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 Personally I'd go for 40mm to dust demo/concrete crushings, but then I'm cheap, we used to pay sub £6/tonne, and would regularly get it for free delivered. The 40mm to dust part is important as it binds well. I'd steer clear of road planings, unless it's a vehicle driveway/track 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 Thanks all. There is a bit of a side slope so I might need a small retaining wall on the upper side which would allow me to fix the uprights to that as suggested. On the other side of the shed I plan to do similar in time, and I would need a retaining wall there too as the ground drops away a bit. Will see what I can come up with. Good to hear the type 1 will do as a surfacing. I'll be sure to post pics when it begins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 Crusher run is good stuff isn't it. Would you use a Terram type membrane to stop water coming back up ? And what's the subsoil like ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 The last time I did this it went OTT by a mile!!! 300 deep, 200 deep rough crush, that can be 4 inch to dust but then whacked down so end up at 150ish deep, terram/geotextile over then type one to level, it has never punched up, can't understand why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted February 29, 2016 Author Share Posted February 29, 2016 I would never shy away from a bit of over-engineering! Where my place is I am a bit 'exposed' to say the least and having felt the wrath of the weather before I have tended to build things as strong as is reasonably possible. The subsoil appears to be clay in other areas of the garden, so likely to be that here also. Load bearing capacity seems to be pretty good generally but a Terram membrane will hopefully help stop the type 1 sinking into it all the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialbikejames Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 If you can scavenge some then 40/40 geogrid laid over terram at the base of the excavation is a great way to start. Remember that geogrid and terram both need a minimum 300mm overlap between strips to work effectively. I would put a slight fall on the top of the stone to promote drainage, even the best machine operators will struggle to level stone to a perfectly even grade so ponding to some extent in inevitable if you try and level it perfectly flat. I would put a 1:40 cross fall across the top of the stone into a simple French drain on the low side. Even with a modest fall water should run off the stone, if you have a natural slope to work with then forming the cross fall should be easy enough and not make any extra work. Getting the water away is the key to a long lasting yard. We usually work on saturated aggregated only having 50% of it's potentially bearing capacity, so it makes a big difference. Or you could just do it farmer style and level in some rough hardcore with a loading shovel bucket and be done with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crclifford Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 James, The only other thing I would also add is make sure you lay and compact the type 1 in suitable layers. To get the best strength out of the base material relies on moisture content and compaction. For diy purposes, moisture content is fairly difficult to measure. Whereas compaction is the easiest for diy person to get right. So depending on your type of compactor, which will then give you depth of type 1 layer and number of passes to get the strength. If the type 1 is particularly dry when you come to compact, then you can spray some water over it to help add compaction, just don't add too much. Hope that makes sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 I did something similar but for live stock. I rue the day I didn’t lay concrete or at least tarmac. Every day I look at it and wish... A hard surface is so much cleaner for whatever you store, doesn’t get chewed up with trollies or jacks, handy for heavy bashing or jet washing bits on. A lot easier to do it now than later. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted April 16, 2016 Author Share Posted April 16, 2016 Started marking it out today, hopefully get the digger in soon to remove the topsoil and level off the ground. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddychris300tdi Posted April 19, 2016 Share Posted April 19, 2016 If it's going to be permanent I would go that bit further and concrete. I think you will thank yourself later. It's so much cleaner and tidier, it won't chew up when turning tyres or even turning on your feet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted August 13, 2016 Author Share Posted August 13, 2016 Finally made some progress with this. Got the digger in last weekend to do the trench for the workshop and dig out the hardstanding area at the same time. Picked up some timber this morning and started playing. There's a bit more levelling to be done at the back of the site, and the cross-beam is just temporarily supported at the shed end at the moment - I needed it in place to set the post height. The posts are 4" x 4" so might be a bit heavy duty but that is probably a good thing! There is a drain on the uphill side which will mean there is no water sitting against either the timber or the aggregate once in place, it will run off under the hedge and into the field. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted September 18, 2016 Author Share Posted September 18, 2016 I've managed to get a little more done each weekend, got the sub base laid in and the roof framing pretty much there. Just need some noggins down the middle and the sheets can go on. I've decided to have a bash at concreting it after all. Once I've levelled and compacted the type 1 that is there already there will be room for 100mm or so of concrete, more than enough for a storage area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 Looks good! 100mm is plenty - that would be enough for a domestic driveway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 Chuck some light weight re-bar mesh in, it'll give you a lot more strength for bashing the like of A frame ball joints on !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tal Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 If its just for storage it just needs to be dry from above and well drained. if you will end up working on it you might be better with concrete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 Get some mesh in or you'll regret it later.. Even chicken wire stuff helps a lot. It is relatively cheap, makes the concrete so much stronger and if you make some pictures while building you can show you're a serious man when it comes to construction. Over the years, we used a lot of concrete for various projects, both in Holland and France, and this is what we're building at the moment here : Yes : a 13 x 6 x 3.5 mtrs. ABRI We have poured a 7-10 cm. thick floor. Overkill for horses but in the futere, when selling the place, machinery etc. will be no problem. Steel armouring is very important. to get a strong floor. This is what we do. And no, this is not the new workshop - this is just for the horses.... The next project is another ABRI like this, just 2 x times al long : 26 mtrs long, 6 mtrs. wide and 2.8 mtrs. high. for firewood, Land Rovers, trailers and hay storage.. Eventually, the workshop will be 14 x 9 x 4 mtrs - including a 4 poster ramp we'll partly sink in the floor for easier access to the engine bay etc..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted September 19, 2016 Author Share Posted September 19, 2016 Yes I will stick some rebar mesh in for good measure. I will be storing firewood in there so a concrete floor will allow me to sweep up sawdust etc. a lot easier than just the Type 1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 Put rebar mesh in, don't fanny about with chicken mesh (its Britpart). You’re limited for space so put another shuttering board at the open end and tamp it length ways. Make sure you put a fall on it from shed to open ground on the left. Its not worth a power trowel/mechanical float so tamp it (2 man job) as best you can. Wait for it to start to go off then brush finish with a soft broom unless you can handle a bull float. Whatever your finish it will be 100% better than aggregate/type 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 22, 2016 Author Share Posted October 22, 2016 Well here we go then, I've got half the roof on and the concrete is in. Not the greatest finish in the world, but as suggested above it's a lot better than the sub-base on its own and certainly adequate for firewood/storage. It was my first time doing concrete as well so there was a bit of a learning curve as I went. Should get the rest of the roof sheets on this weekend and then next week I will get the Yorkshire boarding put on around the two sides that are to be closed off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 James - what do you use to fit the studding in between the posts? Do you nail them in or screw them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 23, 2016 Author Share Posted October 23, 2016 They're double skew-nailed using 4" nails. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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