teabag

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About teabag

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    Kent, The Garden of England

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  1. B
  2. Ok, check the fluid level in the approved way (cold, selector P to 1 etc) and see what is what. Some times in some light its difficult to see the fluid level on the dip stick especially if it new. If there's no sign then add an additional .25 litre wait 1/2 hour and check again in the approved way. Can't think of any other way.
  3. Ok, check the fluid level in the approved way (cold, selector P to 1) and see what is what. Some times in some light its difficult to see the fluid level on the dip stick especially if it new. If there's no sign then add an additional .25 litre wait 1/2 hour and check again in the approved way. Can't think of any other way.
  4. Hi to u Monkeyfeet, I've never tried, and it's never crossed my mind to have a look in the similar way we do to check the engine oil level. I've always done what's stated in the handbook book and move the selector etc. My Honda Accord auto is checked in the way we do for the engine oil and the engine/fluid must be hot.
  5. Correct ATF does expand, hence on some auto dip sticks there's two levels marked i.e., cold, hot, but for the D1 there's only one marked area , so fluid level should be somewhere in between the two 'pips' on the dip stick, preferably close to the top 'pip' with the level taking with the gearbox and fluid cold, as u say, with the engine running selecting slowly the positions from P to 1 and back into P then go and look at the dipstick with the engine still running, takes two or three minutes, simples.
  6. About AUD$3000 is £1775 in the UK today, but then there's the additional shipping cost back to the UK to take into account, which won't be cheap, plus cost of getting to Australia in the first place and not every Brit will want to holiday in Australia... so an expensive D 1 it seems. No all D1s in the UK suffer from corrosion, some have had a cherished life, I know of one.
  7. Two months on... it's always good practice to return and let the Forum know the out come of your enquiry. But then I don't suppose we will see u again.
  8. It's a classic symptom of a failing spider immobiliser, intermittent starting, maybe a single misfire (cutting out and restarting) when running and then failing completely and stopping the engine. Went through all that for a year until the engine stopped on the outside lane of a duel carriage way, fortunately for me I could crank the engine it was just the spark that was missing, so a very easy fix with a bit of wire at the road side got me going again, and later installing the wire in a permanent way in the engine bay. If you can't crank the engine and the fault is with the spider, the starting circuit that the spider looks after can again with a single piece of wire get u going again, there's two independent circuits in the spider of a D1 V8, starter and ignition, either or both can fail at once. Unable to crank, of course could be an iffy connection on the starter motor or ignition switch or its wiring into the fuse board. As far a any temperature sensor goes, it will never stop the cranking of the engine.
  9. I have a couple passenger doors that don't unlock/lock, it happens once a year maybe, I find a splash of wd40 down the door pin into the door clears that problem and so back to normal. It could be that the doors actuator requires a slight readjustment, for that the door card does have to be removed.
  10. Yes it will. Use an identical ECU plus its matching fobs and it plug and play. There's a 'Crash' sensor within the ECU, on activation... hazards will flash and the doors will unlock, if locked. Reset is by switching ignition switch off on off, the info is in the owners handbook. The master actuator is in the drivers door, it only has a very small motor so doubtful if it's "pulling too much load" look for a partially seized locking in the drivers door.
  11. 10 miles... then there's a problem. The thermostat is no fully closing, viscous coupling faulty.
  12. Normal for D2 autos, it's part of the design to aid quicker warm up, the info may be in your owners handbook, if not in a Forum somewhere.
  13. That's all it is, ignition switched supplies, one to the starter motor or maybe the relay, the other is to the fuel pump or whatever ever a Diesel has in the engine bay that the two items that the immobiliser isolates, so no that difficult to do, an hour or so if you wish to be neat in that way you install the additional wiring. Pull the fuses and power down the security ECU (green box) and leave it in situ, job done. And if you really mis the central locking you can aways install a aftermarket central locking ECU. In the mean time pull the fuse or unplug the ECU and see what happens.
  14. No not just the alarm on its own. Powering down the security system and the ECU will remove the alarm plus the immobiliser which if it isn't already bypassed you will have to install the now missing two circuits that were used to immobilise the engine, you will also lose the central locking function. But it that's on an unmolested system, sort out that wiring first to understand why it's has be altered.
  15. Lock with fob or key to isolate the ultrasonic movement detector, but only unlock with the fob. Unlocking with the key will set off the alarm. I have the wiring diagrams in my Haynes work shop manual, so either get your self the manual or download from the www LRs mechanical and electrical manuals called RAVE, but the don't show wiring in the the security system as u would expect.