Me too - it's G5 oils that are the problem with yellow metals.
Topically it's just being discussed on the series one club forum : http://www.lrsoc.com/forum/index.php?topic=21324
I saw this on Glen Coyne's site and wondered what people's thoughts here were?
I'd actually blanked mine off - never thinking it fulfilled a stabilising function? Seems an odd thing to for the oil pump to be a slack fit ?
Where the two halves of my R380 meet it weeps a little oil - not so as the level goes down noticeably, but so its wet to touch.
I've kind of been treating it like my series - i.e accept it as a Land Rover thing and watch the level.
However, if I want to stop it are there any alternatives other than box out and get it rebuilt ?
Thanks everyone - I think I'm going to go for the 3290CX Sealy one. They are on offer and look to be fine for me.
Tempted by the low profile one - but I don't really have cars that would warrant it ? The Costco one looks good, but they aren't stocking it at the moment - they have a 2ton aluminium one now.
My old trolley Jack is leaking and not worth repairing - can anyone recommend a decent one please?
The ideal would be one that can cope with slightly rough ground and doesn't cost a fortune?
Does it not just simply come down to being totally and utterly selfish ? As in; they see the world only in terms of themselves and thus what they can get out of it.
It's one of the few things in life that makes me swear.
So, you can put it down to their upbringing or call them tw@ts - the truth is they are probably just tw@ts who had a bad upbringing.
I think it was one with white plastic insides and it never came clean - he bought his wife a new one though and I think, plumbed the old one into his garage ??
Thanks folks.
The rattle is definitely from the latch side - though I checked the door stay out aswell. It doesn't seem bad at all.
The post it locks round looks ok - there is wear, but it doesn't look out of round.
I'll see if I can find the part number for the rubber block - and start with that.
The central locking door locks are quite expensive - but I think I'd still rather just swap one over than try to repair the old one. It's my daily drive so I can't afford the time it's likely to take to repair it.
I've also now seen someone else's and theirs had no side to side movement at all - just a little rotation. So I suspect it's likely the lock causing the rattle and not a straightforward repair either.
Thanks everyone