Anderzander

I used single skin upto the roof and then just a couple of lengths of the stainless twin wall to pass through the roof and make a chimney. Sealed it with one of those flexible things and sealed that with gutter sealant.

I have one of those gas heaters in another garage - I used it before I got the stove. They are very good and really do put a lot of heat out.

I love a real flame fire though ?

My garage is half that size and I have one of these fitted : https://www.wesellstoves.co.uk/hawk-3?gclid=Cj0KEQiAsrnCBRCTs7nqwrm6pcYBEiQAcQSznN62k5wuOuqy_nqdAAFr96xwtdYHR1JTB98GPIuWyB8aAqDy8P8HAQ Its very small but has quite a high heat output. its been a while since I really fired it up - but it certainly warms my garage through. What I really like about it though is that with it being small I can light small fires in and it will still heat up quickly. Big ones can take a bit of heating up, which if you are just popping in for a couple hours means it may only get going when you're ready to come out.

Thanks folks. James - maybe you could do a review?

How do you get the no vat Machine Mart thing ? I signed up to their newsletter and have bought things - but never had one.

I'm trying to follow that .... The way I'd imagined it was taking the switched live from the washer switch in the Black/Light Green wire to the coil and then to earth - so the coil gets a live feed when the switch is pressed. Then replacing the switch to earth wiper switch with the other side of the coil: so black and green in and switched to earth... Does that sound right ? This is great learning for me by the way. Thank you !

Thank you for the reply! I'm a bit slow with wiring, especially relays, so will need to think that through. I think the rear motor sits in the bottle at the front whilst the rear wiper relay is on the back door - So at the moment it seems that then relay plan maybe the only way I can restrict the changes to being behind the dash?

I wonder if anyone could help me? I'd like to have one switch for the rear wash wipe on my Td5 - on a non latching button so that a press does the wiper and holding it in does the jet too. So in a similar way to the button on the end of the stalk for the front wipers. I don't know if the stalk button doesn't activate the jet when you press it in because on some design element? Or simply because it takes a while for the fluid to pump through? For the rear though I think activating the pump and wipe at the same time will give the same effect. For the pump the switch simply switches a live to the motor. For the wiper it looks like it switches an earth for the activating side of a relay. I'm limited to the standard td5 switch - which isn't a dual pole switch, so could anyone suggest how I might wire them through one switch please?

Thanks Pete - I've ordered a similar one.

Thanks Pete ! Are you planning to make the buttons accessible or just control it from the phone ? I'm hoping the latter works well enough so I can just mount the board behind the dash - have it automatically pair and control track and volume with the phone.

James - what do you use to fit the studding in between the posts? Do you nail them in or screw them?

I've been looking at these - let me know how you get on please? There a few variations on eBay - some with less power - some that do phones - some with remote controls and so on. I'm seriously considering trying one after my last stereo went hay-wire.

This is shaping up nicely ? It's always an education reading your threads.

Thanks for the replies ! what about where the backing has sagged though? For example, mine has sagged over the alpine lights - I'm assuming if you recover it then that remains ?

Are the puma era head linings better ? There are adds for genuine LR ones for sale with the following text: Sounds like something that wouldn't sag .....

:D

How much do you think this will go for then ? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262586933763

Thanks folks - I'll have a look at those gloves. Nigel's PPE?

Having set fire to endless jackets and jumpers with my welder, I bought a welding jacket. Having had too many bits in my eyes from grinding, I finally bought a decent mask. I also bought some ear defenders too. What I want to look at next is a better pair of gloves - I haven't found a pair that seem to strike the right balance between offering good protection and allowing me to retain some digital manipulatory ability ... For bot when I use the Mig or the grinder. Could anyone make any suggestions or recommendations for me please? Also, maybe a bit of a daft one, what do people wear in general for the workshop ? Overalls ? Jeans ? T-shirts!? Any helps gratefully received.

Mine rattled and I tired siliconing it - which didn't work. Then I tried again following the instructions exactly - and it did. http://foundry4x4.co.uk/pdf/X%20Eng%20at%20Foundry%204x4%20X-Brake%20Defender%20Instructions.pdf I'm not sure what made the difference - it may have been keying the back of the pad so the silicone adhered properly ? Or perhaps giving the right amount of time to cure or using the right type of silicone ? All I know is that when I did it exactly as it said in the instructions it worked.

Both my td5 90's have had the right pedal but come with the basic heavy Spring. I've swapped them both over to the over centre type Spring. Well worth it!

I want to keep reading - seems a shame though if you're going to lose a load of the lovely work you've done here already through going in a new direction ?

Is there an equivalent for steel? I'm thinking where you get a load of tiny holes on body panels, and where the shape is quite complex. If you could fill it and build it up with some low temp brazing type process it would be useful.

You're going to sell it