Anderzander

That's interesting, thanks for the reply . Was that to repair wear or something else?

I've developed a rattle on my rear door, and it's from the lock side. Is this amount of play in the locked position normal? I presume not and that it's the cause of my rattle. If so I presume it's time for a new lock or can they be repaired?

I've swapped in a different transferbox and now have a bit of vibration between 40 and 50 - which I remember Les on here saying can be caused by the output shaft bearings. I'm no expert in what to look for - but when I fitted it I couldn't feel any play? What would I be looking for, in out or side to side, or could the bearing wear and not be felt at the shaft? If I run it with a prop missing, and it is the bearing, would the vibration go? If I'm taking the prop off to check that may the simple answer to confirm it if it would. Any help gratefully received !

Found a 2nd hand CL500 for sale - 275,000 USD

I can't see a price - but can't see it being affordable .....

The potential for Jeff injuring himself seems phenomenonal though

Hello !!!

The only extra thing I thought of was the BCU which the discovery uses to run a lot of the electrics. So I would think you either go for the 'tuck it away in a box' as mentioned - and effectively run the disco loom like a piggy back loom - or you have a go at using it to have electric Windows etc ?

Must have come from Japan ? A lot of rot free, right hand drive, cars come out of there.

. That's hilarious !

Great project - and brilliant to do together with your son. How old is he? Some of my happiest memories are of spannering time in the shed with my Dad. Looking forward to following your progress

Hmmm - that would seem to be about right ......

I've just replaces a brake hose, which went very smoothly .....except for taking the wheel off. I'd asked a garage to fit new discs a little while back as I was struggling for time - and they tightend the wheel nuts so hard I bent my brace and my breaker bar. I'm going to try a halfords breaker bar - but can anyone recommend a wheel brace that is made out of decent metal please ?

Crusher run is good stuff isn't it. Would you use a Terram type membrane to stop water coming back up ? And what's the subsoil like ?

Me too - would it be expensive to post me a square foot of birmabright that I could use for filling holes in my series panels ?

Ahh - I thought you'd done a roof chop - not widened it :-). Do you have a build thread? Back on topic - what are the benefits of having one less door, above those you could get by keeping it closed but having the versatility to open it if you wanted to?

I give in ?

I like that Steve b - though the wipers do make me feel like I'm seeing double (or is that ddoouubbllee?)

Dynamat is 2.2kg/sq. m 2mm Silentcoat is 3kg/sq. m - so presumably 4mm is twice as much ?

You can just about use one of those stubby screw drivers. An alternative might be that if you have the tools to pull out the radio - you could possibly get your hand in and push the switch out from behind ? The cage may stop that though - and it's not a big job to pull out the top of the dash. Only other bit I didn't mention before was on the left hand side grab handle their is a screw at the bottom going in downwards - and a second behind the little Land Rover badge, which you can prise out with a small screwdriver.

You need to take the top dash panel off - so the screws either end of the vents, a couple of small screws up into the panel from the top edges of the recesses in the front of it, the 3(?) big screws through the top of the panel - and both end pieces (handle and vent controls). Once that's out it will reveal a couple more screws on the top of the dash panel.

I've used silentcoat and rate it. I've posted some pictures of fitting it a little while ago - I've used it with a closed cell foam on the top and the results have been good.

That's what occurred to me ....

I use viewranger on iOS devices and would recommend it.

That's a great post AMB.