Retroanaconda

I wouldn’t describe the later 24-spline components as a ‘time bomb’. Under normal use they will be absolutely fine. I swapped the internals of my 90’s front axle from the earlier stronger CVs to the later ones for a few reasons and yes in theory I have lost some strength but I use the car for green laning and trips abroad, where your right foot is the biggest factor in whether you will break something. Upgraded parts will undeniably be better, just whether they’re worth it from a financial point of view will be down to your use case(s). Breaking traction on snow/ice at low speed is a real risk, no idea about it being caused by axle lockers etc. as I’ve never had (or needed) any but I did once change down a gear at low speed on an icy road and the wheels broke traction and the car spun 180° as a result

If you fit the later type you get the much nicer keys, and can have them match the door locks too.

There is certainly a date code on the main rail. Here is the one from my 90’s original chassis, registered January 1992.

There’s no requirement for building control sign off in Scotland so that isn’t an issue. I’d say the idea has merit for sure, read up on the regs in terms of where the flue must terminate in respect of ridge line etc. though.

The circuit board gizmo is probably a little driver for the low fuel light. My 1992 90 had the same, rather than using a switch on the sender this circuit must monitor the fuel level and then turns the light on when required. I binned it when I changed to Td5 gauges as the speedo head takes over this function.

I use a calibrated jack handle over the cut off end of a 14mm ring spanner, and do them up ‘FT’. With threadlock as above.

If you’re changing the balls then the alternative would be to cut those off at the neck, and then you can knock an appropriately-sized socket on to remove the bolts.

Sadly ten years is easily enough time for the original to rot out in some circumstances.

I gave up on toughbook type stuff running a desktop OS years ago and just mounted an iPad. Better interface, better screen, built in GPS and much lighter/slimmer. I use memory map or guru maps for off-road navigation, and google maps for on-road.

Yes, the reservoir will empty quickly so useful to have someone standing by with some ATF.

I changed one on an estate 90 years ago after an argument with a tree branch. We used a Nissens one which I think might be the OE manufacturer? It did the job anyway. Being used to the one in my Tdi I was a bit unsure about the plastic/aluminium construction but to be fair all cars use these now, and all Land Rovers for 20+ years and they don’t seem to cause major problems.

Ah okay, I wondered if you might still have the drag link from the old defender setup laying about somewhere. It’s a different length to the disco one. Personally I don’t see the benefit in the Disco conversion but appreciate that many do. With the box on the floor, can you get a big solid drift onto the tabs of the arm and belt it with a BFH? The box will move but maybe the weight of it will provide enough resistance to allow the shock of the blow to help? If the box is scrap then get the arm nice and hot with a blowtorch and that will help too. It’ll knacker the seal but it looks like it’s pretty knackered already!

No way I would go under a lift that wasn’t bolted down, I don’t really see any way to avoid some kind of fixing to the floor.

Is there a reason you can’t use the defender type arm that’s fitted to the new box?

Let me know if you want my old AEU2522 CVS as spares Mo, no use to me now I converted to the later type.

Because these days tail lights do more than just illuminate when the switch is on. They might come on when the car is unlocked for example, or the brake lights might need to be lit when the regenerative braking is operating on a hybrid vehicle. The user might want to be told when a specific light has failed. All these things need more than a simple circuit, and the electronic control unit is an effective way of achieving them.

It’s also comparably expensive, despite the derision applied to the L663’s price point.

I was told by the dealer in Edinburgh that it will be January at the earliest for a demonstrator that you can take for an actual test drive, so that tallies. Still yet to see any real-world feedback on production models so I’m keen to get a go in one once they’re available.

I had to use the hole on the outside face of the chassis, in behind the outrigger, when fitting my Td5/ROW chassis loom. It wouldn’t go through the hole on the inside face that the old Tdi loom used.

Can we keep this discussion to EVs and conversions please folks. The endless roundabout of Mac vs Windows, Apple vs Android etc. is not for here.

See here: https://www.lrworkshop.com/connectors/defender-2002my/C0704 Should be in all chassis looms except those for pickups, although I suspect even many of those still have them laying unused behind the cover.

Mine was something like £500 if I remember correctly. I had most of the vehicle painted panel by panel, the bulkhead is a time consuming one to do due to the shape and surface area, so is expensive compared to say a wing or the like. I’d always want to paint it, apart from looking correct it also protects the galvanising from the elements which is fairly important for a rust prone panel like this.

The wiring for all the bits on the door - so the rear wiper, heated window and high-level brake light - is part of the chassis loom yes. There is a multiplug in with the rear lights on the drivers side, where the rear door loom plugs in.

PaulMc on this forum is the man you need, as per this thread: https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/106429-wiring-header-joints/

Every one I’ve seen/driven has a separate key.