Retroanaconda

Definitely get a reinforced clutch fork, or the upgrade to the bushed type if preferred. I’m not particularly convinced a metal release bearing carrier is necessary unless you’re doing a lot of work where you’re sat with the clutch pedal pressed for long periods of time. But maybe it’s one of those things where it’s not much more to put an upgraded part in than a standard one?

That’s looking fab. When’s it’s first outing off road to try it out?

The standard upgrades would be: Front - a 24-spline diff (upgraded if you wish) and then Ashcrofts 23-24 spline shafts to work with your existing 23-spline CVS, which are the strongest factory version. HD drive members if you wish. Rear - 24-spline diff (again upgraded if desired) and then ashcroft shafts/drive members. I’d swap the axle for a later disc-braked one first though. A Tdi will cruise at 70-75mph, especially with an overdrive, but you will use a lot of fuel and make a lot of noise. That’s already an overtaking speed so I’m not sure I understand the need for 85-90mph.

This thread has progressed in a very predictable manner The branding decision is a non-issue, the cars will still be land rovers and they will still have the green/black oval on the back. The only difference I can see is that the dealerships will use the model names abode the door - which makes a lot of sense when you consider that very few people say ‘I drive a Land Rover Range Rover’, or ‘a Land Rover Discovery’ - the models are brands in themselves these days. Usual storm in a teacup reaction.

On LHD vehicles the rod requires a crank to clear the diff, on RHD it does not. Pre-2002 they fitted the same cranked solid rod to all cars regardless of drive side, though it was unnecessary on RHD ones. From 2002 they moved to the welded hollow tube, and at that point RHD and LHD differed, with the former having a straight rod and the latter using a cranked one.

Yes, I pull it until the target figure is reached - which requires a very small amount of force - and then I tighten the tensioner bolt. That then gets torqued to the correct value using a normal click-type torque wrench. As for how accurate it is I am not sure, but I’ve never had an issue with a timing belt apart from a dodgy tensioner bearing causing wear on one edge. Was your issue not caused by the tensioner bolt coming loose?

https://yrmit.co.uk/product/hdg-rear-capping-tub-door-lock-strengthener-bracket-lr-defender/

That’s for the front doors Ralph, it’s a different part for the rear tail door. I searched high and low for a part number Jeff but couldn’t find one. In the end I found that YRM sell it separately so bought one from them.

There’s no confirmation from Ineos there. Nor from HMRC. I appreciate that neither are likely to make any statement, as frankly it suits both of them for it to be unclear, but it isn’t helpful for those trying to inform purchasing decisions.

Can you get him to confirm the tax status for HMRC? In terms of benefit in kind?

They did fit 4-pins to the fronts of some late 110/130 models, in response to the issue of 2-pins failing under the higher torque of later Tdci engines. There appears to be no rhyme or reason as to which vehicles got them though or which did not. This is a different diff to the short-nose ‘P38’ diff fitted to the rear axle of 110/130 from around 2005 onwards following the demise of the Salisbury. If you do find one then it should be the same as the old V8 90 rear (heavy duty) diff and so yes should fit into any normal long nose Rover casing.

Kerb weight of a Tdi 90 is about 1,700kg so I’d hope mine is around that. Maybe a little more for some added soundproofing etc.

The £58 ones would probably be a safe bet, if they are from someone reputable.

I see the first ones have finally started being delivered, so hopefully won’t be too long.

I don’t think the wait is the issue, a 12 month lead in time for a new car is not unheard of these days. It’s more the fact that they’ve been built, delivered to the dealer but they’re now sitting there unable to be handed over due to some mysterious ‘software’ issue. After all the noise made about transparency during the engineering and planning phases, it’s a shame it has gone this way.

I suspect he means it only starts if easy start is sprayed in while turning it over. Without easy start it will just turn over but not fire up.

Does this help?

Nice colour. Bet you’re very glad to finally see it in the metal, as it were. Still can’t see past that bumper though, hopefully someone will come up with a sensible aftermarket one.

My brake bias valve is a different type - the earlier one I think. It just sits inline between the master cylinder and the rear brakes. Bad photo here:

I wouldn’t be worried about it being at 2kg at all.

These are the brackets. They take up some of the difference. It’s not perfect but with a bit of tweaking it will go on and will do the job.

Sorry I should have been clearer, there is no clash with the tank guard yet. It’s only the triangulation piece that may need that later. Its a Td5 towbar onto a Td5/Tdci chassis - only difference is I welded the tank mounts on myself. I have been daft though and forgotten some extra brackets. These overlap the tank mount where the braces attach, and also pick up on the chassis above. After test fitting, I think that actually with these in place there won’t be any issue - they space the brace out slightly and massively reinforce the tank mount, so I’m not so concerned about the twist in the brace.

I am trying to refit a towbar to my 90. Clearly the aftermarket tank brackets that I bought and welded on to the chassis are slightly the wrong shape, as the towbar braces do not properly line up. With a bit of manipulation with a hammer I can get it to this point: It will then pull closed with the bolt (an M12) but to do so it effectively twists the brace and puts a lot of strain on the bracket and bolt at the tank end. This is also an M12, into a tapped boss which is welded into the bracket. How happy would you be with this? Ideally I need to put a small twist into the brace, but it’s a bloody thick bit of steel and I don’t have the kit for that so would need to farm it out. It seems I will also need to notch the tank guard to fit the cross-brace piece - more fun!

I don’t think there’s any different between a 300Tdi and an early Td5 Salisbury is there? I know the brake pads got thicker at some stage so the calipers were presumably wider to accommodate that, but I’m not aware of any of the axle bits changing. Around 2004/2005 they changed to the Rover short-nose axle instead.