Retroanaconda

If you do drill the spot welds out and remove the flange, then yes a thin bead of polyurethane sealant and then rivet it back on.

Yes it’s normal, you have to drill them.

Could you remove the gearbox mounts and drop it down an inch or so on a jack? Would have to be careful not to foul something particularly at the front of the engine which would pitch up.

FFS why is it upside down?

I have one of their round double sockets in place of the cigarette lighter in mine. Very neat and has a cover if desired. Forgive the bad photo:

I’m pretty sure they’re not, or lots of people would be using them in that slot. I’m sure Mud would also advertise it as such. Ping Mudstuff an email or message, they’ll know for sure.

Emergency stop type buttons linked to the testing systems, this is still a test vehicle which is why I wasn’t allowed to look under the bonnet. They won’t be on production cars. The rest of the car is as finished though.

My D200 is fantastic - lots of power and torque and more than adequate for my needs. I think it will depend what you are used to, I was coming from a 200Tdi so it was quite the step up. The other benefit in my view is that it’s the same engine for all three power levels, so the D200/250 are effectively detuned. In my view that means the engine is operating with a huge safety margin for wear/loading. Finally - a D200 can be turned into a D250 with nothing more than a software change.

Had a poke around one today. Thoughts and observations are: - seems well built, as much as one can tell in a showroom. - good ground clearance underneath, chassis and axles all looks very HD - the front bumper is hideous, though it makes as useful step/seat. - there are radiators/coolers in front of both front wheels, similar to the new Defender. - good driving position and seems comfy, but don’t like the dash in the centre. - it’s massive, as wide as and 400kg heavier than my L663 Defender 110 - very little legroom in the station wagon second row, the Belstaff editions have much more but are much more expensive. - standard ones are N1 and subject to commercial speed limits (too heavy to be a dual purpose vehicle like most LRs), but importantly any with seats and windows in the back will be treated as cars by HMRC for BiK purposes. I did like it, and if it was cheaper I’d be seriously contemplating one. As it is I’ve got a test drive arranged for a month or so’s time so looking forward to that.

RTC3511 is the double lipped seal that fits the Defender hubs, and possibly the later Series III hubs too if they use the same size seal land (been a while since I’ve had an Series III apart to remember). I use it on all of mine as I find it is better at retaining oil and grease, and keeping water out.

It’s from the SP4x4 page, via Google images. The cross rod and the black crank on the right is for the internal lock button. All should be apparent when you take it apart.

Does this help? Seen from reverse.

Local hydraulics shop is not very local, so have ordered one off eBay - thanks.

Interesting regards the sight glass - is it just a standard 3/4” BSP one you’ve used? Like the below? (assuming I have remembered the thread size properly!)

Your dealer will be able to tell you, plus it will be listed on the specification. My understanding however is that the base model does not come with the premium LED lights, you may be able to specify them as an upgrade option. However I also understood that the base model had been discontinued, and the lowest spec available was the SE, which does include the premium LED headlights. It is still available in the hardtop variant though.

With a seal fitting tool that has a recess for the lip, or something else of a similar size. Before I got the proper tool I used to use an old single-lipped seal with the lip cut off, which bears nicely on the outside diameter of the new seal without disturbing the lip.

The seal in the photo is a double-lipped seal and is fitted correctly. If your new seal is single-lipped then fit it with the lip on the inside - flat face on the outside. If it is double lipped then fit it same as the one in your photo.

They’re quite often double-lipped seals and so in that case there will be one visible whichever way around it is fitted.

They’ve had a load up in the highlands testing this week for journalists, apparently the articles will start being released around the 9th Feb. I passed the group heading south on the A82 the other day. Someone snapped this photo of them at a hotel in Inverness:

To be fair, you can now buy UJs that are the same as the genuine ones without paying LR prices. These ones are the same as those in the LR boxes: https://www.shop4autoparts.net/parts/axle-suspension/universal-joint-hd-grsr-gkn-hs-18mm-j-75x27/ Other ‘OEM’ ones have poorer seals, and smaller bearing journals/rollers.

The 2.0 litre engines are known to be poor with a high failure rate, which is partly why they have now been replaced by the 3.0 litre version in all larger Land Rovers.

EV tech is really not advanced enough for towing yet - it’s just about manageable for normal driving for a lot of folk (so long as you don’t need to cover long distances quickly) but it’ll be a few years yet before it can properly challenge diesel for lugging things about.

Interesting idea, will be good to see how it performs. The railko bush material is self-lubricating apparently, though I always put a smear of oil in when I fit them.

Pretty sure Td5 is the same as V8 - 267mm or 10.5”. The Tdci 2.4 engine has a few listed on Autodoc as about 260mm, and the 2.2 version is the same. It’s also possible to use the 4x4 transit heavy duty clutch but I’m not sure if that’s a different size.