Retroanaconda

Mine had one of those too. I binned it when I converted to Td5 gauges, as the speedo head does the same job and controls the light based on the fuel level signal.

Even if the OS is up to date it will never show TROs as a TRO'd byway is still a byway and denoted as such. Most local authorities publish a list of TROs on their website. Check this against the OS and the authority's online map browser (if they have one) and that should get you most of the way there. Local knowledge goes a long way also.

Mine have been on for about 60,000 miles and are a bit scratched, though it appears to be more from cleaning than anything else. For the cost of them if they ever get bad enough to warrant it I'll just replace them, £35 every 100k (for example) isn't too bad.

Might be a thread under that black rubber cap? Last one I bought had a cap like that on.

Coincidentally I had a call from them today saying my chassis is ready for collection. Hopefully I'll get down to Derbyshire and pick it up in the next couple of weeks

Perhaps. There would no doubt be opportunities for that, particularly on private land or land where there is otherwise no vehicular right of way (such as FC land). I would welcome alternative methods of keeping access open. Though I would point out that there is a difference in public perception between driving on what are physically/politically/environmentally sensitive and often historic routes, and driving on purpose-built and generally flat/graded timber haul roads within a commercial forest where there are hundreds of vans, lorries, machines etc. buzzing around all day anyway. Kielder Forest is also outside the Northumberland National Park boundary for the most part.

Mine used to be behind the seats, in a hard top like Mo. However I now keep it on the workshop floor as it occurred to me while doing some work a little while back that I couldn't remember the last time I used it and so I took it out. I don't air down tyres for more extreme off-roading or the like or have air lockers or anything so couldn't see a benefit in having it in there all the time. I can always put it in a box in the back if I'm travelling somewhere where I think I am likely to need to air up/down the tyres.

I have done the survey, I am happy to do so, but I think all you're doing is delaying the inevitable. Green laning/off-roading/whatever you want to call it is not politically compatible with National Parks or even to a lesser extent the wider management of the British countryside in a lot of areas. Perhaps delaying the inevitable closure of the lanes is enough, it will certainly allow more people to enjoy them, and as I say I applaud your efforts but as you suggested I lack the political motivation to get involved in the whole affair. Personally I will enjoy them whole I can, but I am under no illusions as to the finite nature of the pastime's lifespan.

I applaud your efforts David, however I think we're p**sing into the wind with this.

Any motor factor should be able to supply oil in 20 ltr drums. I think the last one I bought cost about £40.

The section of Sarn Helen within the BBNP boundary is marked up as a restricted byway on the OS maps - suffice to say its status is disputed! Drive at your own risk... Outwith the national park boundary there are plenty in the general area - staying on the Sarn Helen theme the southern section between Neath and Banwen is open (though subject to a season TRO if I recall correctly). There's also a good selection to the north of the Beacons, around Llandrindod Wells/Rhayader localities.

Best I've had was a verified 35mpg, so 36 is probably achievable if you drive like miss daisy in good conditions. Not difficult to correct for speedo error with the use of a GPS.

Yes, some rotational play is normal.

My gauge is good enough that I can generally predict the fuel economy to within an mpg or two based on it's position and the trip mileage. For example if the trip mileage is 180 at an indicated 1/2 tank then that will equate to something around 30-31 mpg. Okay it's not 'accurate' in that 3/4, 1/2 and 1/4 don't necessarily correlate exactly with those measurements due to its non-linear nature however it's reliable and repeatable which is arguably more important once you have got to know the vehicle and how the gauge behaves.

Nice fix, good work.

Maybe a lay shaft bearing if there's no whine in 4th. But try with the tunnel on, you may be surprised! It did well with no oil in it - keep an eye out for leaks, there must be a reason it was empty. Though it's possible the previous owner just forgot of course.

I think what is being suggested is that, yes that is the case - but you would be prosecuted for having a unroadworthy vehicle, not for having no MOT. In theory you could have had an accident the day before the failed test and it would still have been unroadworthy and you would still be prosecuted.If the vehicle is defective it is defective, whether it has a valid MOT is irrelevant. The obligation on the owner/driver is the same.

If you want a comparison you're welcome to come have a ride in mine if you like and if you're not too far away, everything's standard except the soundproofing and 235/85/R16 tyres.

A higher ratio box won't reduce road noise. Only soundproofing or less aggressive tyres can do that.

I've seen some bits like that on modern cars (wishbones etc.) where they have eccentric washers to allow adjustability. Common practice is to mark it all with Tippex so as to allow you to reassemble in the same orientation.

Diesel works well and the oily film/residue can be a benefit in some cases depending on what you're cleaning. Personally I can't stand the smell of it though, and it's propensity for getting everywhere. I have used petrol for cleaning some things (wheel bearings mainly) but you have to be f'king careful. Brake cleaner or similar solvent works wonders, though it's quite expensive so better for detail work rather than large-scale cleaning of a timing case for example. I buy it in 5 litre containers and transfer into a squirt bottle for use. I've heard kerosene/paraffin works well for cleaning. Not tried it myself.

If adding electrical load (i.e. heater fan) changes the gauge reading then you have an electrical problem, probably an earth fault. Check your earths, particularly the engine block one. Doesn't preclude an actual overheating problem, but worth checking first.

Out of the factory the speedo should slightly over-read - for example mine reads about 65 when doing 60 on a GPS. They're not allowed to under-read at all. For example if your speedo is saying 30 and you're actually doing 35 for example it means you've got the wrong drive gear in the transfer box for the size of tyre fitted. But it sounds like yours is correct (slight over-read). Without meaning to sound rude, is it a new car to you? A Tdi engined car without any soundproofing is a horrible place to be when you get the thing up to speed noise wise, might be a case of perception?

235/70/R16 are pretty small, I'd maybe try and borrow a set of either 235/85/R16 or 7.50/R16 and try those out first - it might be all you need. All Discovery 1 LT230 boxes will fit as they are basically the same casting/fitment yes.

Cracking! Now time to cover it with junk