Retroanaconda

Check the engine earth too.

Best to test in a pan on the hob first.

Realised I never reported on my new rad. They made it up from stock and I picked it up next day. Seemingly identical to the old one and a good price. Means I've got a spare now to get recored for the 110.

The way I look at it is that it is minimal extra outlay at the time of a rebuild. And then you just don't have to worry about it. Especially with the amount of salt on the roads, hence the issue noted above.

For the sake of a few hundred quid it's got to be easier to let Marslands do the modifications for you surely? Engine mounts, radiator mounts, gearbox mounts etc. all have to be modified. Marslands do it all so everything is pretty much a straight swap.

So... What happened to make it fall over?

Do you need tyres as well? Got a few sets of standard steel wheels without tyres here if they're any use.

Yeah, I was thinking some kind of air suspension compressor hidden away somewhere. I do recall the instructions noting the requirement to keep a certain minimum pressure.The good ride is the reason for it. The 110 had previously had its Boge unit removed and HD springs fitted so was quite harsh when empty. I had another 110 briefly that was still fitted with its original SW springs and a working Boge and it rode beautifully. So that's what I'm trying to replicate. I suppose you lose some suspension flex if you've got the air bags pumped up compared to the centrally mounted Boge strut. I wonder if an air bag could be mounted centrally on its mountings?

Will be interested to see what you come up with. I was planning on using air bag to assist the standard station wagon rear springs in lieu of the Boge strut.

I don't know much about Megasquirt Phil but if you need a hand with something or even just some company for a day 'on the car' then give me a shout. I've found in the past that a second pair of hands/eyes can be useful for getting things moving again.

Just be aware that the damage will continue as they generally rot from the inside out. But for a cosmetic repair that will do the job fine. Not structural as far as the MOT is concerned for example.

I had a local radiator shop make me up a new unit for a lot lot less than that.

A colleague had one as a company lease car for a while, it was a good motor but pretty thirsty on petrol. Won't tow or carry what a 110 will, but that may not be an issue for you.

I have a full set of Koni shocks sat in my garage of you want them Mo. I fitted them as everyone sang their praises but they were a worse ride than standard shocks (yes I tried the different settings). If you think you can get on with them better by all means let me know and we'll figure out a way of getting them to you.

I've just saved the corner of the old chassis and won't bother with stamping the new one. The car can be ID'd from the VIN plate under the bonnet and if anyone ever queries it I have proof that I cut up the old one (retained piece plus photos), and proof that I replaced it with a brand new one (receipt from Marslands and the stamped date code on the new chassis) as required by the rules.

If it's the standard folding crane type then yes you can - disassembled of course, but they don't take long to build up/strip down enough to get them in. I've borrowed one before and picked it up in the 90 (I think). And when I bought mine I picked it up in kit form (3 big heavy boxes) in the 90 as well.

Last UJs I bought were about £45 each. I also only buy Land Rover ones these days as suggested above. It does have a hole for a nipple, into which I fitted one. Regular greasing ensures a long life, I do mine with the oil changes so every 6,000 miles. A common problem is that often one journal gets blocked by older/harder grease and so gets starved of lubrication (as the gun pressure just pushes more grease out to the clear ones instead of the blocked one) and eventually this journal fails. You can see this in the page linked above - with one journal rusty worn and the others seemingly ok. One way to help prevent this is to grease after a good run so that the grease already in the UJ is warmed up and should flow better. A higher pressure gun might also help but not tried that myself.

I had a Bearmach rear door striker where the rubber buffer was too deep and I had to cut it and the screws down. Other than that generally I have had no issues with their stuff.

Knocked together a new personnel door this weekend out of some spare timbers. Used up some spare cladding too, hence the patchwork quilt pattern. It's deeper than the old one (and much, much heavier) so I'll get some parliament hinges and hopefully get it hung shortly. Should be a lot more secure than the old one (which had started to fall apart), it will have double mortise locks on the closing side and hinge bolts on the hanging side to resist crowbar attack ripping the hinges out.

Started marking it out today, hopefully get the digger in soon to remove the topsoil and level off the ground.

If it's a Defender 200 currently then just swap the block over and keep all the ancillaries/timing chest etc. Defender spec. as suggested above. This solves all the packaging problems and means a standard 200Tdi Defender viscous fan & cowling will fit and work as designed, no need to convert to electric unless you specifically want to (e.g. for ease of access).

Driving license entitlement has no effect at all on what the vehicle is capable of towing/rated to tow. It is important and relevant yes but we should not conflate the two issues - they are complex enough as it is! My Series III says '2 tons' on the VIN plate, so that is what I would go by for those purposes. Hopefully yours has something similar, which makes it nice and easy. Second best bet would be the user manual as suggested.

Boosts are the wheels of the poor, after all who runs 16" wheels any more - or tyres less than 265 wide!? We socially better folk have to distinguish ourselves from all the dirty farmers, estate workers, utility companies, foresters, police, fire brigade, search and rescue, coastguard, armed forces, scout troops, councils, conservationists, explorers, charities and the like who dare to use this prestigious vehicles for 'off road' or 'heavy' work - perish the thought.

Mine had one of those too. I binned it when I converted to Td5 gauges, as the speedo head does the same job and controls the light based on the fuel level signal.

Even if the OS is up to date it will never show TROs as a TRO'd byway is still a byway and denoted as such. Most local authorities publish a list of TROs on their website. Check this against the OS and the authority's online map browser (if they have one) and that should get you most of the way there. Local knowledge goes a long way also.